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How dry should Sambacs get?

Posted by lazybonz 7a (My Page) on
Fri, Jul 4, 14 at 12:54

I bought a moisture meter, as suggested by Robert but need to know how far into the soil to insert the probe and just how dry it should be before I water my J sambacs.

The moisture level varies depending on how far into the soil it is pushed--it's wet at the bottom, reads 4-5 in mid section and 2 at the top.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: How dry should Sambacs get?

In any porous mix, there is usually no need to use moisture meters because everything dries out evenly from top to bottom..No worries there since porous mixes do not have perched water tables..

PWT table is the level in your soil in your container at which the soil usually holds way to much moisture usually causing death to fiborous roots and prevent roots from growing into the bottom of the container without dying if one is not careful with the watering can, usually called root rot..
Thsi can happen when too much moisture is provided or when salt toxitity builds up from fertilizer and tap water. THe salt deposits can almost always give you a false reading besides on your meter...Sometimes you will get a readi of wet when the soil is actually dry and vise versa.

So depending on how far the roots have reached into your container will depend on how or when you should water..

If the roots are only half way down the pot, then the moisture reader should read one step from dry int the root zone.

The key is to know exactly where the roots are to determine how far you should push the meter down and rely on the reading..

Have you ever considered using a mix that drains quickly, and dries out evenly? One where you don't have to use a moisture meter? One that allows the roots to fill the pot with ease and prevent cyclonic heath?
One that holds its structure and negates perched water?


RE: How dry should Sambacs get?

Thank for your reply, MeyerMike.
My jasmines are new acquisitions, as my forte seems to be killing potted plants.
I try to be merciful and only kill plants once a year.
Some of them may have done themselves in, just
from the stress of knowing that I was their caretaker ;-)

The jasmines have not been repotted, since I figured they should get used to being outdoors before I do anything different with them.
What you're saying is to measure the moisture in the root zone, if I understand correctly.

The mixes that Tapla has posted about sound promising, since there would not be a PWT to rot the roots.
I believe that overwatering is the cause of many of the plant deaths that I've caused.

Like a tone-deaf person who longs to sing well, I long to grow beautiful, thriving jasmines.

I've been reading about Al Tapla's potting mixes and after a few days of trying, have hunted-down the necessary ingredients.
My husband wants to try his hand at growing plumerias in pots, so we've gotten the ingredients for both the 5-1-1 and the Gritty mixes.
Al was very kind and replied to a PM with many helpful links.
Next up is determining exactly how to properly screen the ingredients .
We have to finish reading all the linked pages from Al but it sounds like my best chance at keeping jasmines at least healthy and alive is to try the Tapla mixes.

Is there a fertilizer that you prefer for your jasmines?

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