Thanks SO much DianeKaryl! And everyone!!
When I nick it I do see some light green-tannish color inside and moisture. I do have a storage room which is near the heater. It is outdoors but never totally freezes (probably is 40's to 30's in there most winter long) due to being located right next to the house furnace. Woudl this do as a place to "overwinter" it? This is sometimes called the "paperbag method" correct?
Yes now it is in West window indoors but doing absolutely nothing. I've been watering it right along but apparently I should not do that anymore so will stop.
Should I REMOVE the soil from roots before placing it in the bag (bare roots only)? Or shoudl I just take the plant, soil, plastic container and all, and put a bag round the whole thing and store it?
Your idea makes a ton of sense and is so much better than losing a gorgeous plant like this to my own neglect. I do really appreciate your help!!
Thanks again,
Kelly (aka Brown Thumb)

Kelly, no need to remove the soil at this time, that can be done in February or March when you decide to do the task of bringing the plant back after its winter sleep.

The bag method is a safe way of storage if you can ensure the plant never is touched by temperatures that could cause it harm. The bag must remain OPEN...to circulate air.

The inside wall of your storage room sounds like it just might do...the plant must not freeze. So to that, consider putting the bag into a large box and surrounding the bag with ...the name of the material escapes me...its bubble wrap...the stuff that surrounds electronic equipment when you purchase it...its light but does not attract heat or cold. This you can insulate the box with. Pour it in and surround the plant and cover it...put some even into the bag with the plant....but leave the bag open. Then a further wrap of packing material or burlap can be further added.

This should be enough...but if you still feel you wish to bring the temperature up from .....say the low 30's...you can put a light bulb...a bare light bulb above the box...close enough to give to the box some heat...but not too close. Incandescent light bulbs do get hot...you know that when you try to remove a bulb from the socket with your fingers....burny, burny.
But the light may just add a little to make the difference.
The light might used only when conditions warrant or possibly just during nighttime hours.

It does seem to be a lot of bother for a plant that maybe you could replace for a couple of bucks...I know that....but, like you, I have many geranium plants that I would not want to see harmed...and I go to extremes myself to keep them safe. Let's hope yours can be protected too.

As a matter of fact, I have suggested my approach to wintering over geranium to a friend who lives in southern Indiana...French Lick is the name of the town...and she suggested she will try it. She's always just bought new plants in the spring. We just sent out a Christmas card to her...85 cents to mail to U.S. We pay 50 cents within Canada...the number of cards does seem to dwindle each year the post office tries to make a profit at our expense.
Oh well...

Have a nice safe Christmas and a prosperous
New Year.

I know it's an awfully old thread but...

I have a geranium that is important to me. It used to be very spindly so I cut it back. The piece I cut off I tried to root with no luck. Now the remaining little plant's leaves which were just at the ends of 2 short stems have dried and shriveled and it might be too late. It's September in Ny just south of Lake Ontario. Is there anything I can do? Is it the right time of year to attempt the above post? I've attached a photo.
Thanks for any suggestions,
Ken

Sorry, but that plant looks very dead :-(

I'm not sure I can tell you why just from that photo, but geraniums (pelargoniums) are very low care plants. Perhaps you just babied a bit too much? It also looks like it is indoors. While these types of geraniums can be overwintered indoors like any other houseplant, they would prefer to be outside during the growing season/summer months. They are also extremely easy to strike from cuttings.

What kind of potting soil are you using and how did you care for the plant? More detailed information might provide more insight.

The potting soil is miracle grow. It's been a couple weeks since it's been watered and a few months since repotting. It never seemed to take off after getting a new home. The soil is not moist. I'm a little concerned about watering at this point due to not having any real green leaves. Could it have just died of thirst? This plant is over 5 years old and has spent most of its life indoors.

Update here from my the OP - that original plant didn't make it but I DID discover the 'magic formula' for the common geranium that I've had for a few years ow, at least I think so. Hope this helps someone.

Remembering that I saw TONS of Geraniums blooming madly on outdoor balconie and stairs across Italy one summer reminds me they want: ITALIAN STYLE HEAT, ITALIAN STYLE SUNSHINE (real or faux!), a bit of balmy BREEZE, and let the rain take care of the rest - with only a bit of 'topping up' watering by me as needed.

Following your advice, we basically treat them now like our orchids....lots of bright direct sun from the south facing windows, never water unless they are BONE dry, a humidifer, fan and big CFL lights shining on them during the dark months of Nov-Mar. Then all summer, the orchids and geranium enjoy sitting on the front and back porches "drinking in" the sunshine and putting out crazy amounts of healthy leaves, big new branches, and beautiful blooms. This has helped me hugely in keeping Miss Geranium II alive this time aorund - I hope she'll have a long and happy live thanks to you all!

MiracleGro is about the worst potting soil you can use - doesn't drain well and far too moisture retentive. I really wouldn't be worried about watering now......unfortunately, I think your geranium is well beyond any watering help at this stage of the game :-(

I'm not really sure how living all of its life indoors affected the plant but it may have had an influence. Anything other than tropical plants need some periods of rest or dormancy to kind of recharge their batteries for another growing season. And that dormancy period generally coincides with cold weather or winter in the northern hemisphere. Keeping it indoors year round deprives the plant of that dormant period and this can have the effect of weakening the plant over time. Keep this up long enough and the plant will decline and eventually die. This is why even bonsai growers move their stock outdoors during the summer months - it is enough of a temperature swing from the uniformity of indoor temps to create at least a pseudo-dormancy.

FWIW, these are very inexpensive plants and easily replaced annually. In fact, they are almost always sold as seasonal color because wintering them over is almost more trouble than its worth to just repurchase as needed. Unless you are a plant geek or working on a very tight budget. Even then, they sell seed geranium starts in spring for less than a dollar!!

geranium is one of the plants that, while an annual, it can come back --as good as...or maybe better than, it once was.
With a healthy plant that can be put at a window that gives southern sun and treated as a houseplant and will serve very nicely.
Where the question of whether the plant is viable I think the best approach is to think spring......

put the what's left of it...into a cool basement where it can be put on a shelf...and LEFT ALONE....NO WATER....NO LIGHT...NO FOOD....just left alone......where temperatures are above 40 F....it should never be allowed to freeze.
then round about the ides of February or March...it is brought out, cut back to good tissue...about 4" high...given a clean pot with fresh potting soil--NOT GARDEN SOIL---put something between the drainage holes and the soil---so it drains well, place in a sunny window and turned every other day. It should, within a couple weeks, begin to form new leaves. Keep the soil on the damp side...never wet.
Its important to not let it be hit by air currents that change the temperatures too quickly.
Do not feed it...until it begins to grow...and then only as it requires it.
It will, within a month...six weeks, put on enough foliage to ensure its survival.
When its warm enough put it outside in the sunshine during daylight hours....back indoors at night....and repeat this until it has been acclimated to outside temperatures when it can go out....and stay out.