As far as I know, they like big pots. Mine is in a 10" pot. I added some worm dirt and it has really been growing since I did that.

L. B. I am speculating that possibly your Regals were brought in possibly having been touched by frost. A little is OK, they can take temps down to 25...without suffering any. Then I take it you re-potted---hopefully, you used fresh, new potting soil.....no garden soil. And you watered it well. Overwatering can cause yellow leaves.

Regals do like it cool...so you may be right if the plant was put real close to the window and especially if it is in a western or southern exposure.
If this is the case, draw it back some.

About watering, hopefully when you watered you only watered til drainage is seen at the bottom...in the saucer...then the excess is dumped. Never leave a plant sitting in its drainage for any extended time. Always dump the excess.

You are also right in not fertilizing until new growth is evident...and then as it starts slow, you fertilize only at 1/4 rate (1/2) every 4th or 5th watering. (20/20/20)

When the plant has resumed normal growth, then you can resume normal fertilizing.

L.B. The above was an attempt to try to say why your plant is drooping.....but it is not the method I would employ to keep over a plant that has been put into a sunny window.

Usually, I advise putting the geranium plant into a cool, dry, dark place and leave it there.....until its time to bring it back in mid February. But let's assume you wish to do it your way....by putting it into a sunny window now.

First thing you should do...cut it back...cut the plant back by 1/3....to 1/2 NOW..depending on the size of the plant.
Fresh potting soil, sand, peat moss...make it light...so that water will drain thru it easily.

Put into a sunny window. Let it grow what it will until about the middle of February, then cut it back again...by 1/3 ....1/2.....put into the sunny window and allow it to fully grow. In a matter of weeks you should have new growth. Fertilize at 1/4 rate every 4th or 5th watering...20/20/20.....In a matter of more weeks, blooming buds may be seen. Increase fertilizing as the plant grows.

Round about late April/early May you may have bloom re-appearing and just about ready to go back outside for another season. 15/30/15....at this time.

Regals (Martha Washingtons) can be disappointing in flower if confronted by a hot summer.

The size of pot I would think would be according to the size of the plant.

Diane....

Thanks so much for your help! Unfortunately, we are not having any sun at all right now! It's been raining cats and dogs lately day after day so I now just have it sitting in the living room...not in a window but a few feet away from a northern window. As far as watering goes....I never water any of my plants til the water fills the tray at the bottom...if water does fill the tray then it is dumped. I just feel I'm overwatering if the water fills the tray.

Right now...I'm favoring your way of taking care of the plant. Is it okay to cut it back now even tho the main sticks are brown but the branches coming off are green? Shouldn't I wait til the branches are no longer green? This was SUCH a pretty flowering geranium this Summer! Oh, one more thing....no, it did not get hit by any frost. I brought it in long before we got our first frost. BUT, I did not change the soil. Didn't know I should do that...

I have printed out your suggestions and hopefully next Spring I'll have my geranium back in bloom! Thanks so very much for your help.

Linda

Linda....first about the watering. Houseplants do much better when not over watered. By watering the geranium when the top inch is dry, then watering til the drainage is seen in the saucer, is your cue that the plant has been given sufficient water. By watering and not seeing it drain, is an invite to have water collect around the roots, then additional water just profounds the wetting of soil there at the roots....which can set up rot.

By seeing the drainage, dumping the excess, then allowing it to dry down before watering again, is your insurance to not over-water.

If your plant has brown portions, that suggests it has been allowed to dry to the point that it should stay dry and be put into a cool, dry place to further allow it to go dry.
If however, you wish to keep the plant going, keep it foliating, then cut it back now, put into fresh potting soil, put some shards below the soil to help drainage, water as necessary....letting the top surface dry to the touch before watering again, it should be fine.

The only problem this method is that it produces much foliage before it can be thought of to resume its place outside in the garden. In zone 5, let's assume that is mid May...depending on the weather. You'd have to treat this as a houseplant until the good weather arrives.

You could cut it back now, treat it as above, then cut it back again at the end of January and then let it resume normal growth.....and bloom...when it will go outside at the proper time.

If you have a coldcellar or a crawl-space or somewhere in your basement that is cooler....under 55 degrees....or an old refrigerator...you can put this plant into that space and leave it there until mid February when it is then given the above treatment. No water, no light should touch the plant---it will go completely dry...and sleep the winter away.
It will awaken when we want it to--in mid February...and it will grow and bloom as good as ever.

Diane....*smacking the side of my head*.....NOW I understand the "watering" process. Thank you so much for being so patient with me. I always thought that if I watered til I saw it come out in the saucer at the bottom, that I had overwatered the plant and did not want it to sit in all that water.

I again printed out your second message and have added to my "Bible"...all my info on plants. I have decided to take it downstairs in the basement, etc...as you suggested and let it get a good winter's sleep and then bring it back out mid February.

Again, I cannot thank you enough for all your help!! It is very much appreciated! Thank you for your time and patience.

Linda

Diane....I have elected to store this in my basement. I was going to put it in a paper bag in a cool dark spot. My question is...should I cut it back before storing? If so, how much? Should I leave it in the soil and then put it in new soil when ready to awaken from it's long winter sleep?

Linda

Linda, there's is no need to cut it back now...do that when you wish to push it to grow, to bloom. The cutting back, with the new soil, the fresh watering, the higher sun value, will push the plant to grow new leaves. The higher sun values in mid February is the ideal kind of sun needed to bring this about.

The open bag is a good idea...no moisture can linger.