I can't tell you exactly how long-- I'm not that good a record-keeper -- but I know it takes quite a while. I'd think the Streps should be showing some new growth any time now (actually, I'd have expected some before a month passed, but if the leaves appear to be rooted, they should be fine.)
Episcias are really slow from leaves, though they grow amazingly quickly from stolon-formed plantlets. I wouldn't worry about them at all, but hopefully you'll see some new growth any time now. You're doing the right thing keeping them warm & bright. The only thing I can think of that might help is to get them a very dilute "feeding". I use the sprayer and get the foliage as well as the soil, and sometimes that gives new plant starts a nudge.
Streps don't seem to mind winter at all, but Episcias look much better when the days are warm and long. If your new plants look less-than-magnificent, I'd recommend giving the potential addiction another try in spring. They're amazing, gorgeous plants when they get what they want, but you have such a harsh climate... Not that you can't keep them alive and healthy, but just to let you know they're both prettier and easier in summer.
Enjoy your new plants...which ones did you get?

Thanks Jen for the info, I'll try feeding them abit to egg them on.... and be patient and wait it out:-)

Darn! I just checked my e-mail (which I recently cleaned out) and there is no sign of Callalilly's e-mail of what she sent me. It all started with one Hoya cutting that she wanted me to have and I ended up with about 9 lovely cuttings....Hoya names I wrote on the pots of course.(Shepardi. multiflora, and australis) Not sure why I didn't with the others?

Diane

YAHOO!
I didn't have to wait that long at all! A couple days ago I looked on the fridge and low and behold.... both leaves have produced babies!!

With winter coming on strong here,(it snowed today:-( should I leave them bagged to keep the humidity up? The furnace has been on since Mid August. More light?

Help please as you all do not have a FAQ!
Diane

Epsicia's will take as much humidity as you can give them and they need warmth too. I would not uncover them. In fact, I would look around for one of those bubble bowls and plan on growing the plant in there or any other type of covered terrarium. That should help with both the humidity and warmth.

Streps can certainly take more cold than the episcia's or even violets. I grow mine in my basement under lights. I know that temps dip into the upper 50's down there on the coldest nights of winter and the plants all do well.

BTW if you are looking for plants that tolerate cooler temps, try growing some of the Chirita's too.

Kathy

Just thought you all would like to see the results of your good advice:-)

I can't wait to see the flowers on 'Kim'

Thanks
Diane

Btw, does anyone know the ID of the Episcia? Curios minds need to know!

Here is a link that might be useful: What they look like now:-)

Hi, Diane:

Are you sure that's an Episcia on the left? Looks more like a Chirita to me.

Linda

Really I don't know.... I only know what I've been told by the lady who sent the leaves to me.

What would be the differences? How can I tell? Do Chirita's send runner too?

Diane

Hi, Diane:

Here's a link to a ton of gesneriad photos. Some chiritas produce stolons. The leaves look fairly thick. Are they?

Chiritas and columnea are my favorite gesnariads. And, chiritas aren't nearly as finicky as episcias. You might want to try them some day. I'll even send you some leaves ;-)

Linda

Here is a link that might be useful: Gesneriad Reference Web

Thanks for the offer Linda, but I'm in Canada and don't know if they would allow them over the boarder.

Seems that my Epi... might well be a Chirita so....Should I have separated the plantlets like you would AV babies? or leave them as they are? (There are 4 plants in the one pot)

There doesn't seem to be much info out there on the www for their care after you propagate the leaf. I have gathered that they are to be treated similar to AV's but to let the soil dry more between watering. (correct me if I am wrong please:-)

Thanks
Diane

Diane - definitely Chirita.
If you separate the babies - you will get more symmetrical plant. They will bloom and grow suckers as well so you can root them and share. I keep them the same way as violets on wicks and one big chirita sinensis in natural light - and it blooms for me OK - the only thing that my hubby manages to trip it over and break leaves just before the show 3 years in a row. They are really not fussy.

Good Luck

Irina

Hi, Diane:

I separate the "rosette" chirita because, as Irina says, they are nicer and more symmetrical. I do not separate my more upright growing ones like 'Kazu and 'Moonlight' but let them get very bushy with tons of plants in one pot.

Chiritas can tolerate dryer and cooler temperatures than AVs. You can do a search for "chirita" on this web site and find a plethora of information. I know because I asked lots of questions even before I got my first chirita.

They are lovely, easy-to-grow plants. Have fun!

Linda

Here is a link that might be useful: Chirita Care

I can't tell yet whether your chirita is a form of sinensis or a sinensis hybrid. But, it defintely has the sinensis pattern of netting on the leaves. As you grow it, hopefully, the netting will become stronger. Chirita sinensis and its hybrids will vary in the amount of netting and background color of the leaves, depending on culture, temperature and some mysterious factor I can't figure out. The most common one, popular, and shared often would be C. sinensis 'Hisako'--which it may be. I would just call it Chirita "sinensis type" and leave it without a definite ID.

Chiritas are very easy to work with. There is no problem in separating babies. Any leaf that breaks off or breaks in half can be put down for more. When I propagate chiritas, I take medium sized leaves (3-4 long ")and cut them into two or three wedge cuttings (bottom, middle, and top). Thus I get about 4-6, mol, plants from each leaf (two per cutting--so, to reiterate, the top half of a leaf is a perfectly fine cutting). Under lights I often get flowers on small plants in 2-3" pots. But, they are much better flower producers when they get larger. Chiritas like to be grown in small pots relative to plant size, but can be potted up too.

Your strep is over potted. But, it should grow into its pot size, as this is the time of year for it to put on lots of growth. But, in the meantime, be careful with watering so that it doesn't stay too wet--think "lightly moist"--whatever that means ;).

Jon

Thanks you Jon for the advice:-)

I recieved these 2 plants as trades last year(as leaf cuttings) and am pleased at how well they grow and how easy! I was talking with the girl who sent them to me and she seems to think she sent me 'Diane Marie' because my name is 'Diane' but like you, I don't think so. 'Diane Marie' has very serrated leaf edges and mine doesn't. No matter, I like it even without an ID:-)

The Strep (and the chirita) is in the same pot that I propagated the leaf in. I'm only now learning what I should have done with the babies.... Next time I root a leaf I'll separate the babies and pot them smaller. Live and learn. I'm also not letting the strep bloom right now in hopes of getting better, healthier and more leaves. (though I'm antsy to see the purple blooms)

Diane