It's probably a good idea to do it both ways and keep records to see if there any differences. However, if you are hybridizing with variegated foliage, you have a better chance of progeny being variegated if the pod parent is variegated.

It has been suggested that plant habit e.g., foliage and vigor, tends to be inherited through the pod parent.

As to how to hybridize, I usually remove the stamens and shake off the pollen onto a stick and then apply it to the stigma.

I would caution you about using young plants to set seed. If the plant is not vigorous, all the plant energy could go to setting the pot and the mother plant could die. I almost lost a plant this way.

About variegation and other recessive treats. My understanding that even if the mother plant is variegated - this is a recessive gene - not as in AVs - where it is not a gene, but part of the "mother's eggcell", you need to self your hybrids or cross back to a variegated parent - then the second generation will show variegation.

So - if you want to get some of the color from Silvia - and first generation doesn't show it - cross them with Silvia again as well as self them.

Fresh seeds hatch really fast, as soon as the baby plants are comfortable to work wit - repot them or just lift and put back every 2 weeks. They grow much faster and they can bloom in 6 months.

Do not grow more than 10-25 seedlings from each cross - otherwise you will be swamped. Cull them all the way - anything you do not like - whack them.

I tried once to grow everythinng that cam from the pod - and ended with lots of them blooming just in 2 types, one of them was just like mama, the second - non-descriptive pale blue.

good luck

irina

Thanks for the info / suggestions.
I'll watch the plant and if it starts to fail I'll cut off the pod.
I'm pleased you say that new seeds germinate quickly. The seeds I have sown a month ago which were several years old so no sign of anything.
Interesting about doing a second lot of fertilising with the first generation....I think that's a bit far in the future. :o)

I read somebody preserved seeds in a freezer/fridge/room conditions. Looks like freezer works the best, fridge is OK and room... they lose it.

In one year you can have 2 generations blooming. The seedpods mature relatively fast.

So - in a year I expect to see new streps - what will be your prefix? Tyne Treasure...Tyne Weather ;-))

irina

Possibly Weary! or if they are rubbish perhaps Compost bin, Compost heap...etc...

While I'm here, a question about growing under lights.
Is the heat produced by fluorescent lights sufficient for them in an unheated brick garage during the winter (expected min outside down to -5 for short periods occasionally)?
I know you can't leave them on all the time as there is a dark process in photosynthesis. But does the dark period have to be in one block, or could you do alternate hours on and off? (Garage otherwise dark)

In your conditions I would keep the light turned for the night - to warm them up. I think they are better at 12-15C, but if it is above freezing they won't die - just keep them on a drier side.

I think you can buy (better borrow from your fellow orchid grower) a min-max thermometer to know exactly what is the temperature range in your garage. Usually the garage with a decent door will keep the average day+night temperature.
(Average temperature in hospital ;-)) including the morgue).

Yes - you can alternate your light in blocks - there is a theory that if you keep the schedule as 4 in 4 out - instead of 12 in 12 out - they get deceived and grow faster. but - I would not guarantee. Would they believe that it is other galaxy or not...

i.

Thanks. I have them in the house at the moment on window sills- I'm just imagining what happens when you start to get lots of seedlings......

The garage has a metal "up and over" door, so will let draughts in.

My hubby glued styrofoam sheets to the inside of the garage door - it helped, but we can go down to -15C here.
Usually the brick absorbs the heat in a day, and gives it away in the night - so it is much better than a flimsier construction.

Again - since streps progeny do not show as many differences as AV seedlings - do not grow them ALL. You can keep them all in 3oz solo cups till they bloom on one tray and decide what to do after 1st bloom. May be they all go to the compost. Or you will keep 3 or 5.

Irina

An update- i'm wondering if Silvia is sterile or at least cannot have seeds (it has pollen).
The end of the pistil (stigma) seems a bit deformed and is all green. It doesn't seem to have a white "receptive" end.
Does anyone know?
Apart from that, the pod that received the pollen is nicely elongated, so hopefully that cross is working.