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albert_135

What is the best season to move or transplant?

I a couple of six inch clumps of some unidentified ornamental grass that I would like to move to a different part of the landscape. Is there a preferred season for moving small clumps of unidentified grass?

Comments (6)

  • donn_
    12 years ago

    In your zone, I'd suggest Spring would be the best season to move or plant grasses. Some cool season grasses may be able to establish their root systems quickly enough to handle an early Fall move, but unless we can ID your plants, it would be safer to wait for Spring

  • kerry1111
    12 years ago

    Hi I am new to gardening and I have two miscanthus cosmopolitans that I bought at a local plant sale in may. I put them in fairly large pots with garden soil and some of my compost..they have grown a little but not as much as I thought they would..one is fairly filled out the grass maybe a foot long, the other same length not as filled out..i would like to transplant them into a flower bed in the front of my house, but I have a couple of concerns.. 1. is it ok to transplant them now or in the fall ( i live in boston ma ) 2. I'm not sure of the quality of the soil where I am putting this flower bed any suggestions on what to add to my regular soil, what does this plant require for soil Thanks so much for any response it would be so helpful to a newbie!

  • donn_
    12 years ago

    Garden soil, even good amended garden soil, is never a good choice for potting media. It does not drain well and is not porous enough to provide adequate aeration for root growth. This is why you haven't seen much growth.

    1. I would plant them in the ground in September. Try to disturb the roots as little as possible, and water them frequently if there is not sufficient rain. Cut them back when you are sure they are dormant, which should be in Late November or early December, after a few good frosts have taken place. Then mulch the crowns with a thick cover of loose material. I use a pile of small pine boughs filled with dry autumn leaves. This should only be necessary for the first winter. If they survive, by next winter they well be well-enough established to leave them standing until the normal spring haircut.

    2. It's difficult to recommend amendments for your soil without knowing its structure. This grass prefers moderately fertile, well-draining soil and mostly sun in your zone. If your soil does not meet these requirements, add organic materials like pine bark fines, peat moss, a little compost and some perlite or vermiculite.

  • kerry1111
    12 years ago

    thanks so much donn! Another question if you don't mind..how do I know what kind of soil I have, is there a way to test it? Might be a silly question, but I plan on planting quite a few things in a new spot and don't want to lose everything I plant due to poor soil conditions. I have only planted in a raised bed which I filled with organic soil that I purchased and compost along with some purchased top soil and had much success...however these plants will be going into the ground. Thanks!

  • donn_
    12 years ago

    There are several steps to determining what kind of soil you have.

    The first and best thing to do is to send off one or more samples of your soil for testing. You want to test the first 6" and the next 6" at least. Your county extension may do this for you at little or no charge. They'll tell you lots of stuff, including pH, which is the acid/neutral/base level of your soil. This is important because it affects the way different plants take up different nutrients. All plants have a favored range of pH.

    Another good test is a perc test. Dig a hole the size of a 5-gallon bucket. Fill it with water, and let it drain completely away. Fill it again and time how long it takes to drain away. Over two hours to fully drain the second time means you have slow-draining soil.

    Yet another test is for tilth (Google it). Take a handful of moist but not wet soil. Squeeze it in your hand. Open your hand. If it falls apart, you have sandy soil, and probably fast drainage. If it holds together, poke it with your finger. If it still stays together, you have clay soil and probably slow drainage. If the poke causes it to crumble, you have a nice loamy soil.

  • kerry1111
    12 years ago

    Thanks so much..can't wait to test my soil Tom and give update,thanks for sharing your vast knowledge -Kerry

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