Yes, you could absolutely be overwatering. If the plants aren't about to wilt, they don't need more water.

In the overall picture, you want to improve your soil so watering is usually unnecessary, and well-draining enough so that any over-exuberance on your part is less detrimental. The more organic matter you add to your soil, the more well-drained it will become. If you put 4" of finely shredded hardwood mulch on soon, you'll have a noticeable improvement by spring. I would also put those earthworms to work and put leaves on the beds. Although I didn't have any hills or what I would consider an infestation of worms in OH, they were plentiful and could demolish at least 18" of ash and maple leaves on top of the mulch over the winter. Whatever you have is good. Bagged lawn clippings, other people's bagged leaves, whatever you can get your hands on.

I started

in central OH by killing the grass, then adding about 4" of mulch. The pic was taken the following fall. The soil had changed from light non-draining clay to very dark, loamy, well-drained soil in just 2 seasons.

{{gwi:48931}} is in the front of my Mom's house here in AL. There is solid clay under a thin layer of sand on top. We put a brick edge, added mulch, and have been putting all of the leaves into this spot for the past few years. Toward the low side, where the rain doesn't wash all of the cover away, the soil is very dark and rich under the mulch/leaf cover. Great progress has been made with these simple steps and the erosion is negligible there now. Another heavy cover of leaves again this fall should put a stop to that for good.

Have you started a compost pile? Some leaves and grass can go right onto the beds, composting is better for kitchen scraps and the excess leaves and grass. If you get a rhythm going, you can add compost in the spring and fall, and top-off mulch as needed.

Hi, kgmax, I'll give you an answer that may help you with most of your gardening questions: www.mgoi.ca. Since you are new to SW Ontario, find the Master Gardeners that are closest to you, and contact their garden helpline. Ask them for a copy of their free Ontario Garden Guide, too.

Master Gardeners are certified in horticulture and volunteer to provide advice to the public. It costs you nothing and we don't sell products either. In spring you may find Master Gardeners at local farmers markets, or giving public presentations in your area.

Cheers,

I have a bit of time to kill (as if that isn't obvious) so I thought I'd throw in a few more comments.

Purple is right about composting, but that is a longer-term answer to your question. One thing to keep in mind is that the foliage of a plant will look the same regardless of whether it has too much water or too little. In either case, the plant will wilt. (This pearl of wisdom is from our Canadian gardening guru, Ed Lawrence on CBC.)

The best way to determine if you need to water is to use the finger test... if the soil feels dry at a depth of 2 inches, then it's time to water.

Plants that are raised properly should not need supplemental water except in event of drought. When planting a new plant, water the soil lightly but deeply (do not saturate the soil... roots MUST have air), then mulch, mulch, mulch! Clay soils dry into something like concrete. Mulch will keep the moisture level more even.

Water perennials daily for a week only if they need it (see finger test); then water every other day during the second week. By the 3rd week you should water no more than twice a week; after a month they should be on their own, except during droughts. Shrubs and trees may not need watering quite as frequently during the first week or two.

The idea is encourage strong DEEP roots. I hope this helps.
Happy Gardening!