Huh? Why not?

jt

I assume it means that too much heat generates too much pressure to safely control. Lower BTU burners should be ok.

JMO

Dave

Why don't they tell the truth........"Not safe for idiots".

(big, cheesy grin)

Deanna (off my soapbox, goin' back to my corner now)

It is probably the company doing some cya on the advice of its attorneys.

Ages ago when I first got my kitchenaid mixer, I read the safety instructions for it. (It is a little hobby I picked up when I was working part-time for an insurance defense attorney.) It cautioned not to use outside. I tried to imagine what dumb thing somebody did to get that caution in there. It is typical though for us to just say don't do it since there is someone out there who will ignore or not understand the btu thing.

Dave,

All I had to do is open the cover page and there it is. In bold type no less!

Deanna & Melly,

CYA sounds right on target & I should have known better. Warning labels are ridiculous these days.

Oh well... spent the afternoon vac sealing a ton of meat that I bought. Smoked Smithville ham hocks, oxtails, Black Angus chuck roasts and a huge pork tenderloin. I want to put up some soup stock, but will start another thread for ideas.

Thanks!

jt

You are dead right abt low flame control and abt breezes. I use heavy duty tinfoil to block the wind, but still have problems keeping the flames just right at low settings. The last time you posted that link I said to self that need to buy. $12 shipping and am going to order one as soon as send this.

Another problem is that my burners will cover only a smallish portion of my canner bottom. Not a problem when canning, but easy to scorch food when pressure cooking.

jt

Dave,
All I had to do is open the cover page and there it is. In bold type no less!

You get to be my age and reading manuals becomes more of an "interesting" kinda thing.

Now if that isn't a sad commentary on life, I don't know what is. ;)

Dave

Camping stores sell metal wands that have extra connections for use with individual propane tanks.

In other words, I wanted to have a propane lantern on the top of the wand attached to my propane tank - and also have another connection - on the side of the wand for a camping stove. Also perhaps, have a room heater attached to another side connection on the wand. There were 3 extra connections on my particular metal wand.

I was able to use 3 different appliances with just one wand attached to the propane tank.

The rubber hoses on each side connection come with volume control on them - so that the force of the propane can be easily adjusted to each appliance.

Also, an adjustment can be made at the tank itself for regulating force of output. Perhaps I'm misinterpreting your picture - are there no controls over the BTU's at the stove orifices nor at the tank?

I don't think I would want to cook a turkey on one tho - not with the prospect of boil over and fire hazard - which is something else again.

Just my 2 c's.

Bejay

I do have a regulator between the burner units and the tank, but the units themselves just are not very easy to adjust. For some reason the flame on low has a tendency to slowly get lower and lower until it goes out. Very frustrating.

Really need something to evenly distribute the heat. I don't have a fry pan large enough to set the new canner in. I've tried using an aluminum food service tray and it warped. Might have worked better if I cut a circular piece out of it and used that. The canner bottom is 12 1/2" across. Just off the phone with a friend in Maine & we were wondering if my pizza stone would work? Sure would hate to crack it though. I tried using ceramic tile once and it broke.

jt

What about using an old pancake griddle, if you can find one - to place under the canner.

Just my 2 c's.

Bejay

A griddle should work perfect and aren't that expensive. I'll turn it upside down over the burner.

Thanks!

jt

Its the time of year people may be thinking about this subject. I saw this older thread about using outdoor propane burners and thought I could contribute…having gone through a saga of my own. I was successful (eventually) so for what that worth, here goes.

-----------------

I wanted to pressure can outside; my kitchen is close; and the idea made sense, particularly since a major item to be canned was fish and game. So I got one of those outdoor propane burners that have a stout stand, a circular burner shield for wind, are about 15 inches high, and operate at 20 lbs. PSI.

The unit boiled water in a big hurry, but the first and most obvious problem was that the flame was not very adjustable at low settings – like you need when the canner has reached operating pressure and you begin the very long run needed to safely can fish, for instance. With the flame that low and unpredictable, wind could ruin your entire carefully prepared effort at any stage of the long process, so…

As mentioned here, I first tried to make a heat buffer between the burner and the All American Canner. I cut out the thick bottom of a very old National pressure cooker to use as a heat diffuser. But interestingly, that didn’t particularly help. The unit now was not responsive to controlling; if the heat was too high and was then turned down, because of the lag time due to mass of aluminum, one could very well turn it down too much…or vice versa; go from too low to too high. The correct adjustment to keep the equipment at stable heat and pressure, and therefore most efficient, is really quite delicate.

Though the danger of flame blow-out from wind was lessened because the flame was a bit higher, constant adjustment for 110 minutes is not enjoyable or even practical. So I sought other remedies.

Firstly, I made a very effective but simple wind shield. I took some old pieces of 3/8th plywood and cut them at 12 wide x 25 inches high…several of these "panels." Then, laying the panels side by each on smooth ground, I took some light rope and cut two lengths that would span the panels laying next to each other. One length at the top, one at the bottom. Next I stapled the rope to the panels with heavy duty staples.

Now I had a very effective and stable folding wind shield. But for the final addition that lead to ultimate success, I installed another much better control valve after the regulator and before the little needle valve the unit came with. This too was a needle valve, but much bigger and more readily controllable. Now I could get the flame low enough and not threatened by the wind.

--------------------

Were I doing this again, I may get a different kind of burner, perhaps like the ones I see with multiple valves. Or, I may get an outdoor propane burner with a 10 pound and not the 20 pound regulator. The circular burner sheild is very helpful. But regardless those choices, you need a very good and stable additional wind shield, and the one I have described is about as simple as I could envision, but perhaps others have an even simpler solution.

One last observation. The early morning or evening with less light was much better for being able to SEE the flame and getting the adjustment correct. I also use the outdoor setup to initially heat the water for my Boiling Water Bath canning. Saves a lot of time.

Good luck! Roof

Melissa

This site is so helpful I thought this could be a contribution in the spirit of this generous community.

----------------------

Thanks Ken;

You betcha, that multiple adjustment burner is just the ticket for canning with a good wind shroud and stabilization.

But my present one described above does some multiple duty: we use it as a crab boiler and general outdoor burner too. Not sure the BTU rating, but because it is a higher pressure regulator it roars and throws an awful lot of heat (that’s the concern about using the thinner metal Presto canner with this sort of fat fryer/burner).

Just out of the box, it also appears more stable than the one you’ve linked, it’s working height is a consideration also. Additionally, the circular wind shield the unit comes with is an added insurance against flame blow out. So, there are trade-offs. But were just flame control the only or primary concern, the multiple controls ARE best.

Roof

The helpful link is yours because that sort of multi valved burner is much less common. The kind of turkey fryer outdoor burner I used is all over the place, and its stable design and integral anti-wind ring is common too. They come lower (about 13 inches high) or higher (about 21 inches)…I chose lower and glad I did. My big All American canner atop it finishes out at a nice and safe height.

About the only help I can be is to tell folk that this sort of unit CAN be made to work. I would opt for the 10 pound regulator however. Likely, that lower pressure will lead to a bit more control at process run temp/pressure…or, a nice even roll with the BWB. But regardless what you get, gotta have a good wind shield.

----------------------------

Mellisa,

Yes! A FAQ department would really be helpful and alleviate people having to ask the same questions, and people having to give the same answers all the time.

Additionally, the library of posts appears pretty short too. No doubt you have lost some very fine conversations. Finally, the search function is a bit like spinning a roulette wheel.

But maybe these negative elements combined actually contribute to the positive nature and helpfulness of this Web site. Life is sometimes like that! :-)

Cheers, Roof

Does need a wind screen - I just used 3 small pieces of left-over plywood and a couple of hinges so it folds and stores easily. Also needs a heat shield to sit on of some kind so it doesn't scorch what it is sitting on (pinic table here). I used an old 3'x3' piece of marbleite I had.

One thing on the burners: it has 3 rings so one would expect each knob would control each burner - not so. Center knob turns on the center ring and the other 2 turn on the R and L sides of the other 2 rings so you get a D pattern. No problem - just weird.

Center burner plus either side brings to a boil within 5 min. 1/2 open center burner is all you need to keep the PC at pressure.

If you don't have a spare pressure hose and regulator for a 20 gallon tank you'll need to buy one but don't buy it from Northern. Home Depot as them for less than half (12.95) what Northern wants.

Highly recommend it to anyone.

Dave

The best wind shield would be more than 3 sided. That way, its "wings" can curl around and protect the front of the unit. It’s very windy (about every day) on the Northern Coast here, but there’s a lot of outdoor cooking ;) It should also fold up…at least for me. That way I don’t have yet another amorphous and vaguely undefineable item in my shop or yards!

That aluminum that Ken speaks of could be good, but I’d find a way to make the panels fold. You may get away with 4 panels, I went for 5 given the shape of my cooker. Thinking of aluminum (and being one that prefers scavenging) about the perfect thing would be a couple of old highway signs cut up. A jig saw will do that nicely (if loudly) and so would a circular saw for the braver/more experienced.

Then you’d need a bunch of hinges and either rivets or sheet metal screws to fasten them. This is why I went for the easy-peasey plywood screen with panels fastened with light rope and staples. But each to his own.

Roof

PS…..Never have heard of a circular burner with its halves controlled….You learn something every day, particularly here.

Also, one note I forgot about outdoor pressure canning: You want to get your burner quite level. The weighted gauge (at least the All American) is machined very precisely to sit atop the vent pipe, it’s differently machined holes (5-10-15 pounds) making accurate and even contact with the taper of the vent.

To do this as intended, the weighted gauge is meant to balance fairly accurately perched up there. Not being level can give you a problem because the balance of the device is off. And it’s very easy to set your outdoor burner in an unlevel position.

It makes sense; that with the unit UN-level, it can be more difficult to control, but nowhere did I read this. A burner frying some sausage and eggs or steaming a kettle of clams doesn’t have to be level, but that unit used for pressure canning should be.

Hope that can help.

I too love scavenging and Doing-it-Yourself. In a way, this entire Web Site is patronized by all manner of hardcore DIYers :) Got a heck of a kick reading about John-showme’s fermentation experiments. And the canning specialists are a constant source of enlightenment. I am shaping some questions for them now.

Good crew here. Cheers!

Mine has the 3 sided hinged wind screen and the 4th side is me and the house ;) since I am working on the deck so wind is no problem. I had to slide the heat shield and burner closer to the end of the picnic table just so I could load the jars, remove the jars, etc. If it was sitting lower than table + burner height that wouldn't be a problem but then I'd have to bend over more - hard on the back.

Also position it so you can see the canner from inside and keep an eye on the weight. I didn't do that at first and had to run in and out or sit out there with it for 90 minutes in the heat till it dawned on me I could move the table to near the kitchen window. Duh!

Once I get up and running tomorrow - tomatoes again - I'll post a pic with stuff for scale so you can see how big this thing really is.

Dave

PS: comes with no assembly or instruction manual but the picture on the box helps and assembly is pretty intuitive. And you will have to do some fine tuning on the air intake nozzles behind the control knobs to get the best flame.

No, my screen doesn’t entirely obscure the front either. You wouldn’t want that. Because it folds like yours, I can adjust that gap in front to see and control the thing. Regardless, I sit out there to be on instant call through the whole process.

Roof

PS… A thought. That light aluminum Ken suggests could be tightly bent all along its edge to receive another panel that is similarly bent….picture two tight circular bends that lock together but allow swinging. That’d make a nice tidy screen.

Isn't an analytical engineering mind nice to have..

Dave

Great job! Roof

I feel more than a little nervous about canning never mind doing it with a pressure canner. I had never even seen one until a couple of days ago. I took a workshop that the Coorperative Extention gave on canning beans with a pressure canner. I feel like I know just enough to be dangerous.

The freezer is about as full as as I want to make it for vegetables, so it is time to bite the bullet and give canning a try.

Ken is right on. It is very easy to control the amount of heat. The great majority of your use will be the small center burner only.

What vegetables will you be pressure canning mostly?

Dave

I don’t have a Presto canner (I use an All American) so I haven’t had to think about the BTU caution that was the source of this conversation.

But I am planning on getting a 23 quart Presto with the weighted gauge set to help with duties, and so that caution is an interest to me too. The multiple control burner you have has a far higher output than the theoretical limitation of that canner. But if the thinner gauge aluminum of the Presto were the problem (melting), why aren’t other (apparently similar) aluminum vessels MORE of a problem with turkey flyers and jet boilers for crab pots?

Light aluminum vessels used for those purposes get very hot, and the burners for these uses are much, much hotter than the Northern burner suggested. Perhaps Ken or others would know…? Or at least advance a theory :-)

(Here's mine: These burners are so powerful that perhaps Presto is concerned that even the safety features can't release the amount of steam generated. But this would be a poblem with any canner...it seems. And if you run out of water, with ANY canner on any burner, all bets are off!)

Cheers, Roof

PS….Never; you need a good wind shield. And set that burner level. These are primary considerations for successful use of that equipment outdoors. Fire it up a few times and do some test runs before you get down to business. You’ll soon gain confidence.

In the broad measure of the various things we do, operating a pressure canner safetly and correctly is not one of the more difficult :-)

Dave when you use that type of canner how much of the burners heat do you use?

I am going to start with beans and various greens. Then try tomatoes both ways and see which we like better. Then hopefully on to beets.

My issues with doing this isn't just my nervousness with using the pressure canner itself. It is in canning safely and ending up with a safe product afterwards. Not only am I a green horn, but I also have MS and have spells that are Alzheimer like so I have to worry about everything I do more than other people have to. Think and rethink, check and recheck.

Thank you all for your thoughts and tips!

I also meant that I think it would be better to try putting up some pickles in a boiling water bath first though.

The weights are ordered and in route as well.

I use the center burner on full and one of the side burners on about 1/2 way just to get it up to boil faster. You could do it with just the center burner, it would just take longer. The center burner is about the same size as one would find on a normal gas cook stove.

Once it is boiling I turn the side burner off and turn the center one down to about 3/4 open. All you need to keep a full roiling boil is the center burner alone.

I would prefer it if the burner gave you a full 3 rings of flame - 3 flames of increasing diameters - but it doesn't. As I said above, the 2 side knobs give you a L and/or Rt.

D

Dave

PS: No damage shows on the bottom of my BWB canner.

Dave on your post on July 28 in the PS you said "and you will have to do some fine tuning on the air intake nozzles behind the control knobs to get the best flame". The only gas unit of any kind that I have ever used was a little Coleman stove, so sorry if this is a stupid question. When I put the unit together I saw the bolts/springs on the bottom and noticed that they were screwed in at different levels and figured that that was what you were talking about. How should they be set? A little slack? Half way in?

It's a little different on each. It doesn't take much but the goal is the bluest flame you can get from each input. One valve at a time, try to eliminate most of the orange color in the flame it produces on the full open setting. Do it AFTER you check for leaks.;) And teflon tape (plumber's tape) on the valve stems and joints helps.

Dave

OK I understand the part about the color of the flame now, but where exactly to put the tape is another thing. Do you mean on the underside of the cooktop where the brass stem connects to the cast iron or somewhere else?

Also it would appear that I did not check enough places for leaks. I checked the connection from the tank to the hose and the connection from the regulator/hose to the cooktop?
Should I have checked elsewhere?

See I told you I just know enough to be dangerous. Can one of you come over and stay for the summer? lol

Another note to self: Notify fire department/ambulance people that you will be trying to can. Offer free vegetables as bribes. Uncanned in case you do it wrong so that you don't kill them, as others may not come the next time you try to can.

Yep, tape the nipple threads on both ends - 1 to 2 wraps around only, and then screw the connectors on. Got a crescent wrench? It works best. If not, a set of pliers?

Only places it can leak is the joint from the tank to the regulator hose and from the hose to the burner.

Instructions? What are those? Wife says she'd fall over in a dead faint if I ever read a set of instructions. Not sure, but I don't think she means that as a compliment. ;)

Dave

Need more power!! ;)

Dave

I was hoping to do that same thing but after reading a number of other threads on the subject changed my mind and got the cooktop that ksrogers posted a link to in this thread and others.

Kind of related. Teflon tape is used to cover the threads of brass fittings as well as many other theaded fittings. Its meant to prevent any siezing of metal threads. Brass threads will get chewed up if not coated with the teflon (no adhesive on it).I wrap about 4 layers on each fittings thread in the direction the threads screw in on. My recently purchased 'Weed Devil' device bought from Northern Tool, also has the optional pilot valve and blast trigger. These options required removing all the threaded fittings from the line to the heat wand, and screwing on the pilot and blast valve between the propane line and the torch. Its ignited with a flint striker and the needle valve on the line can reduce the flame down low so its not always blasting heat. A squeeze on the blasting valve pushes high pressure propane out the end of a 4 foot long wand. I used this today to burn out a lot of weeds that were knee high and taller. I figured the powerful flame would fry any weeds. Oddly, Chickweed needs a LOT of heat, whereas regular crab grass was a bit easier to fry. It took about 4 hours, and it left me with a lot of blackened weeds that should not return soon. If they do its the organic chemical method to kill off the 'stumps' of weeds. Hitting a lot of last years oak leaves with this powerful torch make it start little fires, but they quickly went out due with the moist leaves. This thing is much cheaper than weed klller sprays. Too close to my garden hoses and plastic mulch and they quickly melt.

I ran into the same problem on my second batch as love2trol posted in this thread on Monday, Jan. 28th. When I was pressurizing the canner the flame starting to go lower and lower until it went out. I tried turning it up but it didn't help. It looked like I was running out of gas, but it was a fresh tank, except for what I used for the first batch.

I don't have a clue if this makes any sence, but this is what I did. I tried turned the cooktop on full and tried to relight. Didn't light and there was no smell of propane, so I turned off the cooktop. I then checked the connections, checked to make sure the tank was turned on fully. All that was fine. It was then that I noticed the regulator on the hose was icy cold to the point it had a frosty glaze. I wondered if the line could be frozen so I held regulator in my hands until it warmed up and tried lighting the stove and it started right up. I noticed as the beans were processing that it was getting really cold again and didn't want to have to process them all over again if the gas went out so I kept it warm until the beans were done.

Don't know if that makes any sence or not, just know it was what happened.

More importantly the tank should NOT be turned on all the way. It needs to be only cracked open 1/2 turn. All the way open forces too much gas into the regulator. If the problem continues after making that change then you have a bad regulator diaphragm.

Dave

Now that makes me wonder. I have never used our BBQ. It is my husbands baby. A couple of days before I canned he was BBQing and "ran out of gas" and had to switch out tanks. When I took it to be filled I could hear some swishing around in the bottom of the tank and thought that was odd. I wonder now if the regulator froze instead of him being out of gas. The gauge said it wasn't empty, but we figured that it wasn't accurate.

I will take your suggestion though and call Northern Tool. Just to make sure that there isn't a problem with their regulators.

Thanks Ken

What I had done was turned it off at the cook top and then turned off the tank, because it was going to be a while before the 2nd batch. Then when I went back I turned on the tank then the burner. It lit fine but after a few minutes it went out.

I didn't know that you were only supposed to turn the tank on half way either Dave. I read the instructions on the tank and it didn't say anything. I guess you are supposed to be born knowing all this stuff. Geeze.

No, it just assumes that you have had some experience in cooking with gas. Either a stove or a grill or something similar. ;)

But you don't turn the tank on 1/2 way either - just 1/2 turn of the tank nozzle. All you want is some gas, not ALL the gas. ;)

As to what the call to Northern told you - they were just placating you as it makes no difference if you leave the tank turned on between batches or not. It doesn't hurt to do what they said but it won't solve the problem wither.

What I had done was turned it off at the cook top and then turned off the tank, because it was going to be a while before the 2nd batch. Then when I went back I turned on the tank then the burner. It lit fine but after a few minutes it went out.

Normally what you did is fine and is the normal way to do it. The fact that it went out on you means (1) a breeze blew out the flame or (2) air somehow got into the hose line between the stove and tank which means there is a non-pressurized leak somewhere in the system. You need to check all your fittings to make sure they are not leaking and that the hose itself is not leaking. You can check them all with soapy water with the system pressurized.

Dave

And even though I am doing the canning on sheltered 3 sided porch I built a 3 sided wind screen. I am as positive as I can be that it didn't blow out as it very slowly lowered. I saw it doing that and tried turning it up, but it didn't matter. It kept slowing going down until it went out.

I checked and rechecked all the fittings before I started for leaks and it was fine. I used the plumbers tape as you said as well.

The only thing that makes sence to us is that the line froze. I turned all the burners on and tried to light it again and nothing. No smell of propane either. After I warmed the regulator in my hands I was able to light it without any problem. Then when running I felt it get colder and sat there keeping it warm until I finished the batch (because I was afraid it would go out and I would have to start over).

I still think that how much to turn on the tank should be on the tank for safety. Propane is not some thing one should have to guess how to use and everybody has a first time. I understand the overkill these days in having to label everything, but some how I don't think how to safely use a highly explosive gas is in the same league as having to warn people that the take out coffee is hot. (My frustration with this is not directed at you Dave.) It was annoying enough to have to put together and figure out how to put together and use a gas appliance without a manual/instructions. Then no instructions on the tank about how much to turn it on. I have a personal reason for getting bent over this. The nephew of my cousin was nearly burned to death in a propane fire. Not pretty.

My husband has been using the grill for many years and this was the first he had ever heard that you don't turn it on fully either and he is a very smart man.

I will find out I guess tomorrow as I am going to try to make pickles. I'll give it a half turn and see what happens.
Thanks again.

Some of us old fogies grew up cooking on wood stoves and then with gas long before we had any electricity so we learned these things as we grew. But I agree with you that more "how-to" instructions on some things would be a good deal.

I aways laugh when I recall the weekend we had all the grandkids staying with us and a storm took down the power lines for 3 days. No well pump so no water except what we store and no lights. They got a real kick out of the kerosene lamps, no baths, the outdoor latrine, and cooking on the old wood stove but couldn't understand why no TV. ;)

Dave

Dave

After trying to can today I called Northern Tool and they said they will replace it, but it is on back order until DECEMBER. I asked if there was anyone I could speak with that might be able to tell me a way to fix it and she said no, the manufacturer is in China, of course.

Sometimes living up to my "handle" is really hard to do. I would dearly love to see this thing go airborn just before landing in the middle of the pond, but not before beating it with a sledge hammer.

Alright, so what now? I have the coleman stove and am able to get quite a large pot up to a rolling boil, but it runs on the little tanks of gas. Is there some kind of adapter that would allow me to use the regulator for the other stove on it so that I can use a bigger tank?

I tried to water bath relish today, I couldn't get the stove down to a gentle boil. It boiled so furiously that the jars are covered with what looks like a mineral film. I can run my finger over the lids and sides and it comes off somewhat. Looking at them it seems like they sealed, but will they be safe? There still is liquid in them.

There are still alot of things I would like to put up and time and vegetables are a wasting. The remaining space in my freezer is spoken for. If you have any suggestions how to overcome this stove problem I would be very appreciative!

It honestly is quite easy to do - a small crescent wrench slowly turning the brass nuts on the back of the 2 side handles while the flames are on full blast until they are as blue as possible - some orange is ok.

Once the two sides are properly adjusted the center is automatically adjusted - note it has no adjustment nut on the back. But if you have never had any experience with propane burners it may difficult for you.

Yes there are regulators that will allow a Coleman stove to run off larger tanks. You should be able to find one at a propane supplier, hardware store, or from Coleman itself.

If you have never cooked with gas even a gas stove, then learning to adjust the burners will take some practice as it is quite different from cooking with electricity. Many prefer it over cooking with electricity. But it can be done - the knobs on this burner allow for very infintesimal flame adjustments. Same with Coleman stoves.

The "mineral film" you are seeing is from your water - the minerals that are in it. They pose no risk, the food is safe, and they easily wipe off. Add a splash of vinegar to your water in the canner to eliminate them.

Dave

PS: the carbon deposits on the bottom of the pans washes off easily. Using a lower flame reduces the carbon deposits.

I adjusted in minute amounts and waited before adjusting either way til I got it as best as I could. There are still bursts of orange flame, on one side and the middle, but they aren't quite as bad. If the middle on is on high the orange is there all the time plus bursts and no amount of adjusting in either direction stops it, but it is better now when it is on 3 quarters so that should help with the soot and controling the heat.

Ken, I checked the hole size and 6 or 7 were smaller than the rest. The regulator I am using is the one from Northern sold as an accesory to the stove.

The center brass handle on mine is harder to turn on and I realized if I push down on the center of it while turning fixed the problem. I wonder if that was the problem with popcornhill's handle that broke?

I will add the vinegar and try again tomorrow.

As for the rest sometimes having MS really blows. Things that I could figure out with great ease and really simple things come really hard for me now. I have had spells bad enough that I couldn't find my way home, because I couldn't remember where I lived. Then there are days like yesterday........... That is what makes me really scared to can. I guess I will right everything down step by step and follow that each time. It will make it less stressful.

Thanks again for your help. Couldn't do it without you. I still wish one of you would come over for the summer. I won't make you eat what I can. lol

The smaller holes aren't at either end either, just randomly spread out.

I just went and dug out the packaging for the regulator and it says: Regulator with soft nose P.O.L and handwheel x 3/8" female flare. Connects low pressure propane appliances to a 20 lb. cylinder.

It is just one of those company cover your a** things. There is no problem with using the Presto on the propane burner. 100 quarts of stuff done this summer and it's still going strong.

Yes, other burners are available at many sources - Cabelas, Bass Pro, even Walmart all sell the turkey fryer burners and i linked another source below. You just have to dig through Google a bit. But the one you have is probably ok too.

- but the problem with most we have discussed is they have one control knob and less BTU so get as many BTU's as you can afford.

Meanwhile just use it one you have. Likely it will do just fine.

Dave

I bought what Camp Chef calls their Wok Ring, so I can turn up the burner enough so it doesn't go out, but the canner is raised up about two inches off the flame. Works perfectly (for me anyway).

The ring is 10" in diameter, so one of my stock pots is just a wee bit too small. But my larger stock pot and my canner both are very stable sitting on top of the ring.

I bought a weed burner last summer from Northern and its a good thing that I checked, as I also needed a propane tank cart and a special accessory valve that allows the flame to burn at a low rate (acts like a pilot light), then when I squeeze a tab valve it goes into high pressure mode until I release the tab and then reverts back to the low flame. Much better than starting with a sparker every time I need the high flame.

But if anyone needs them I can re-post them in a new thread. Just let me know or start a new thread and I will add them. It's time to let this one go. ;)

snappy bob - for future ref. every propane powered appliance needs its own tank pressure regulator that is set to the appliance's specific pressure tolerance. The pressure tolerance on your gas grill is much higher than this burner would tolerate.

Dave

Mr. Heater LP Kit For Propane Stoves, Model# F273071 NORTHERN TOOL CATALOG NUMBER- 330972

Why are you ignoring my replies? I posted the proper information before. Finding a 'suitable' regulator may not give you the right thing. Stay with the type NT recommends. The regularor and hose are the WHOLE ACCESSORY KIT as pictured on the ACCESSORY web page. Some people may not want this connected to a propane tank and may have a regular gas line outside or inside that can accept a burner like this. Thats the main reason they don't supply the regulator and hose. If you have further complaints about this issue, why not call and send a note to Northern about the issue.