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Mes Confitures rhubarb w/ honey & rosemary

joannaw
13 years ago

I'm in the midst of making this recipe, and realized it doesn't say when to add the honey. With the macerating fruit, with the syrup you boil in the pan, or stir it in with the fruit? Anyone know?

Comments (9)

  • readinglady
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Either of the first two options would be fine. You don't want to stir it in with the fruit because the honey also has water and you'd then need to do additional boiling to bring the mixture back up to the jell point.

    Looking at that recipe, I would probably macerate the fruit, sugar and lemon as directed. I would warm in the pan on low-medium until the sugar is fully dissolved (Rubbing a bit of the juice mixture between your fingers you'll detect no residual grittiness.) then stir in the honey and bring the mixture to a full boil.

    If the sugar isn't fully dissolved before you bring the mixture to the boil you risk crystallization or syneresis (weeping of liquid on the top of the preserves).

    Carol

  • sorellina
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ciao Carol-

    Those preserves are such a challenge, with very little step by step instruction, even for experienced jammers. I've made a few of them and it's never an easy thing. I've got to "fix" some blood orange and quince jam that never set up. I'm going to just use liquid pectin because even with a candy thermometer, I find it very difficult to get her sets just right. I either go too long or not long enough. It's a tad frustrating to say the least.

  • joannaw
    Original Author
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you, Carol! I wouldn't have known that about the sugar-- I am pretty good with homemade candy and keeping crystallization from happening, but I don't think I would have thought about it in this context. This is the first recipe I'm trying from her book-- wish me luck! Hopefully the worst that will happen will be nice jarred syrup. I can live with that. :)

  • readinglady
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There is definitely a learning curve with traditional preserves. Don't give up; you will get there.

    Personally, I've had better luck determining set with a chilled plate than I do with a thermometer. I do sometimes use a thermometer for verification, but even then I use an instant-read Thermapen rather than the candy thermometer that clips to the side of the pan.

    It is very difficult to get an accurate reading with the traditional thermometer because the best pan for jam-making is wide and shallow (optimizes evaporation) and there isn't enough volume of preserve in the bottom for the thermometer to register properly.

    A citrus-based preserve can take as long as six weeks to set up, so I wouldn't be in any hurry to re-cook. Even then, I'd probably focus on using the preserve as is (thinner) because re-cooking usually severely compromises quality.

    I might use it swirled through a panna cotta or pastry cream or in a trifle (warm jam and baste cake or ladyfingers with the preserve; dollop spoonfuls on top) or warm, add Cointreu and pour over ice cream. The possibilities are endless.

    Remember also when checking whether the preserve has reached set point to pull the pan off the burner. Interrupting cooking will not hurt the preserve but over-cooking definitely will.

    Even so, there is always an element of chance. I find that variability part of the charm. You're working with fruit and you just can't 100% predict the outcome. You will, however, get a more reliable set if 1/4 of the fruit is underripe. Obviously, also, the natural pectin and acid levels will influence the firmness of the set. Rhubarb, for instance, is in old-time parlance, "an unreliable setter."

    Commercial pectin is not foolproof but it certainly does improve the odds. However, the flavor, the texture and the sugar levels are different. My preference is for a traditional preserve.

    Ferber is part of a tradition (like fermentation) where people passed on knowledge from generation to generation and learned from observation. Knowing was taken for granted and the foundation principles were often not written down.

    There are good resources online or look for traditional books. So Farm Journal Cookbooks (the general cookbook and the old freezing and canning cookbook) are examples of good older sources which provide information about the alcohol test for pectin levels, etc. Among newer publications, The Jamlady Cookbook and Linda Ziedrich's The Joy of Jams, Jellies and Other Sweet Preserves are perhaps the best "tutorials."

    Another excellent book with fabulous preserves (her spiced blueberry and her raspberry-currant are extraordinary) would be Gourmet Preserves Chez Madelaine by Madelaine Bullwinkel. Bullwinkel does occasionally use commercial pectin in minimal amounts as a "supplement" but is focused on optimal product quality. She is as good as Ferber but clearer.

    Avoid Linda Amendt's books, i.e. 175 Best Jams, Jellies, Marmalades & Other Soft Spreads. She has some good recipes (Her pepper jelly is fabulous.) but she is enamored of liquid pectin and her book will not help you get where you want to be.

    Carol

  • sorellina
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Carol. I've been making jams for years, but I definitely take a more scientific approach with my cooking than the women of previous generations, including my mother who doesn't measure unless she's baking. I know that once I've gotten the method down, Christine Ferber's book will be less a source of consternation and become the resource I reach for when wanting something extraordinary. I'll definitely check out Madelaine Bullwinkel's book..that it's like Ferber's but clearer sounds like a good stepping stone from the books I've always used.

  • annie1992
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Carol, I absolutely agree on the traditional spreads, I just like them better. They have less sugar, more fruit, I can double a batch.

    You did, however forget one use for jam that hasn't set, do as my daughter Ashley does. Just spoon a puddle onto your plate and dip your toast into it, she says that way you get jam on every single bite. (grin)

    My favorite is still your pear preserves, not a thing in there except pears, sugar and lemon, they are so good. Now I'll have to check out the Bullwinkel book, if I ever get a chance to draw a breath again. Maybe next year, LOL.

    Annie

  • joannaw
    Original Author
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The rhubarb preserves turned out perfectly, by the way!

  • iice9
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just have to chime in. I also got halfway through the recipe the first time and thought "OMG - when should I add the honey!" So I put it in with the sugar. To put it with the macerating rhubarb just doesn't make sense - how could you strain it?

    And Carol - thanks for the explanation of why to completely dissolve the sugar - something new for me to take note of.

    That all being said, I must confess my real reason for posting - this jam has become my second favourite of all time. I use it on crackers with goat cheese, on brie, on chicken, and most of all, stirred into Balkan Yogurt.

    I have also recommended the cooking method to a lot of friends who like stewed rhubarb. I have always disliked how mushy and watery it is but using this method preserves the lovely chunks and gives it a thicker consistency.

    P.S. I am flashing back to my childhood, sitting on the wooden porch, eating rhubarb dipped in the sugar bowl. Clearly a life long love affair (insert happy sigh here)

  • readinglady
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    As far as straining is concerned, I like to use the so-called French plunge method.

    The macerated sugar-fruit (with or without honey) is gently heated until sugar is dissolved then the heat is raised and the fruit (in this case rhubarb) is cooked until it becomes translucent (i.e. candied). Usually at this point I leave the preserve to rest overnight. During this time the fruit absorbs the sugar syrup. This equalizes the weight and density of the syrup and fruit, greatly reducing the likelihood of "float" in the final product.

    Then I strain out the fruit using a fine sieve and bring only the strained syrup to the jell point.

    Finally, I re-introduce the fruit and cook one final time until the entire batch reaches jell. This last application of heat is more brief.

    This method yields optimal texture and flavor with maximum control.

    The old Time-Life Preserving volume in The Good Cook series actually uses multiple plunges of this sort with strawberry preserves. It yields fabulously flavorful syrup and distinct plump glacberries. It's a wonderful method for delicate fruit (though it will never work for raspberries).

    The French plunge is the same method I use with the Pear Preserves Annie alluded to.

    Carol

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