I had good success with Whirlpool or Roper and also Kenmore. I know Whirlpool and Roper are made by KitchenAid, all the same company.
No matter what electric element stove you get you need a special canning element to use on it or you will kill your stove. It sets up higher off the top of the stove and the brackets are stronger to hold up to the weight of a canner.
Many glass top stoves are not able to withstand the rigors of canning, so personally, I would also think twice about buying one.
I don't think you can beat a gas stove. I will never go back to electric again unless I have no other options.

I'm with Linda Lou. If you have access to gas and it's affordable, consider investigating that option. I switched from electric to gas years ago and never want an electric stove again.

If I were buying an electric range, though, and I had the space in my kitchen, I'd look for an old range like a Monarch. I wouldn't mind having one from the 1950's at all. Old ranges are built like tanks; however, if you're getting into the restoration game rather than getting lucky and finding a great old range in some elderly grandma's kitchen, it can be very pricey.

Below is a review discussing pros and cons of various types of ranges. Coil electric are definitely the budget choice and after looking over Consumer Reports and others, Hotpoint seems to win out as good value with lower frequency of repair. Kenmore is also good value, but I don't know if they make any coil-top ranges.

Good luck. I've never found shopping for appliances easy and it's especially difficult if you're under the gun to replace a stove fast.

Carol

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Stove Reviews

All we have available is electric, and we bought a stainless steel Amana several years ago. The actual electric heating coils are off-the-shelf-interchangeable parts, kind of like light bulbs, as are the drip pans that go below.

I didn't know about special supports for canning. It would make sense.

I just bought a new GE electric stove and it was delivered last Saturday. I went in looking for a Whirlpool but they changed the placements of the burners, instead of them being large-left-back and large-right-front they were large-front left and large-right-back, and that would't work with the way the counter tops and wall was. I am planning on using the new stove this weekend to can so I will let you know how it works. The top seems a little sturdier than the whirlpool. I have also seen where they have special elements and burners specically used for canning. I will check into it for next summer.
Diane

I have large left front and large right back on my Amana electric range, and you're right, it's not the best placement. But the price was right - free (my SIL had a kitchen remodel done just a couple of years after buying new appliances, bought new (newer) appliances.

I bought a canning element and used it for the first time three weeks ago when I finally had a weekend to take my tuna out of the freezer and process it. 36 pts, 12 1/2 pts (for my mom), and one of those days where everything goes flawlessly. I think the canning element was a big part of that (weighted gauge canners here).

Here is a link that might be useful: Canning element

I too have a cheapo electric stove from Frigidaire, but have replaced a few of the elements with store boughts from Home Depot. I find the originals have less coil turns compared to some of the better replacements. If this element is going to be used for a big canning pot, suggest that you buy the heavy duty burner with thicker support struts and raised element. This special burner has the standard connector type. Unfortunately, most GE stoves use a special connection for the burners, common only to GE. Most other brands of electric stove burners are easier to find.

Thanks everyone!
We've been planning on remodeling for years.....hasn't happened yet. I was hoping to not have to replace my stove until then, but now I have to. I, too, need the large element in the right front, which limits things. I just can't do all my bigger stuff in the left, because of the kitchen arrangement. I would love gas, but since we're going to remodel, (yeah, sure we are), I don't want to change over to gas until then (since we don't have any gas plumbing).
When I buy a stove, will they be able to tell me if the canning element will work on it? Where do you buy those?
Wouldn't you know it........now I need a dryer too! I thought my 27 year old Maytag just needed a new heating thing, but it needs a timer that turns the heat on, which the service guy doesn't think is available anymore......so now I need to get a new dryer too! (and a new washer if I want them to match).
Maybe I should wait a few days, and see if my fridge is going to die too, before I visit the appliance store!

If you click on the link morz8 provided above, that will take you to repairclinic.com and the canning element. I have bought from them; reputable and good service. I believe Linda Lou has purchased from them too.

If you're not sure if the canning element will work on the stove you're considering, call them. They're very helpful.

Carol

Thanks Carol.

Yes, I have gotten very good service from them. They were really helpful in diagnosing a problem we had and sent us the right part.
That is the element my friend uses. She loves it and keeps it on her stove for stir frying, since she does a lot of that type of cooking.

Why am I just hearing about these canning elements now...I've ruined many a stove from canning. I'm going to order two this weekend. Thanks for the info

Just used my canning element this past season for the first time. My stove is a bit newer and was so badly stained after a couple of batches. I had to use a lot of elbow grease and some 'Soft Scrub' to remove all the burned black spots around the burner. The chrome drip pan is the next to go, as they will rust quickly. The chrome drip pan gets so hot under the burner that it vaporized an almunium foil 'burner bib'. When I used the raised burner, it helped to reduce warping of the metal struts that support the burner.

Diane62.......what do you think of your stove now, after having used it all weekend?

Ksrogers.......I asked the guy at the appliance store if I could replace the coils that were less (I think it's about 5 coils total, around the element), and he said no. But you're saying we can?? At least on your brand of stove?

About the only ones I'm finding with decent coils are Whirlpool and GE. But the Whirlpool has the big front element on the wrong side, and I don't want to give GE my business. I still have a 16 year old GE.......but it had sooooo many problems, I just don't want to give them my business again. Plus.....is it true the canning element won't fit GE??

As with so many things, I think they might eventually do away with electric coil stoves. I think it is a statement about how little people care about preserving things anymore. :(

When I looked for replacement stove top elements for my non- GE stove, for some reason I was always finding the GE types. These are at a local True Value hardware store. The tips that plug into a socket at the edges of the circular holes in the top of the stoves have a different kind of connector compared to most other non-GE electric stoves. If an element burns out on an electric stove, the replacement elements are bought from places like hardware stores, or places like Lowes and Home Depot. Usually the latter sell elements made as 'universals' which are used on most stove brands except GE. The stove designs vary, but nearly all non GE stoves can use the universal elements, of either the smaller or larger designed coils. As to the actual size of each burner and its placement on a stove, you need to go to an appliace store to see what brands and models have the larger diameter burner on the right front side, if thats where you prefer yours to be. My original Whirlpool/Kenmore had a large burner on the right front, with a smaller diameter on the right back, and the alternates on the left side. The newer stove I have now has a small burner on the right front, and larger one on the right rear, and the left side as the alternate ones with the left front being the larger one and the left rear being the smaller one (also over the oven vent tube). When I use my stove for canning, I use the left front larger burner for the water bath pot, and the right rear larger burner for the cooked product I plan to can. I do hope that this clear enough for you now. Basically, I do not like GE stoves, or their difficult to find odd connection burners.
The link below lists TWO electric stove canning elements, which are heavy duty, as well as being raised above the stove surface. One has a built-on drip pan, while the other is a retro fit for a standard 8 inch burner opening, that can probabaly replace the burner on a GE stove (not sure though), as it has a connector and controller. Electric coil stoves are here to stay for quite some time. Gas isn't an option if your neighborhood has no gas lines, and I wouldn't want to deal with propane for use on a stove.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jenn-Aire Canning elements

When I looked for replacement stove top elements for my non- GE stove, for some reason I was always finding the GE types. These are at a local True Value hardware store. The tips that plug into a socket at the edges of the circular holes in the top of the stoves have a different kind of connector compared to most other non-GE electric stoves. If an element burns out on an electric stove, the replacement elements are bought from places like hardware stores, or places like Lowes and Home Depot. Usually the latter sell elements made as 'universals' which are used on most stove brands except GE. The stove designs vary, but nearly all non GE stoves can use the universal elements, of either the smaller or larger designed coils. As to the actual size of each burner and its placement on a stove, you need to go to an appliace store to see what brands and models have the larger diameter burner on the right front side, if thats where you prefer yours to be. My original Whirlpool/Kenmore had a large burner on the right front, with a smaller diameter on the right back, and the alternates on the left side. The newer stove I have now has a small burner on the right front, and larger one on the right rear, and the left side as the alternate ones with the left front being the larger one and the left rear being the smaller one (also over the oven vent tube). When I use my stove for canning, I use the left front larger burner for the water bath pot, and the right rear larger burner for the cooked product I plan to can. I do hope that this clear enough for you now. Basically, I do not like GE stoves, or their difficult to find odd connection burners.
The link below lists TWO electric stove canning elements, which are heavy duty, as well as being raised above the stove surface. One has a built-on drip pan, while the other is a retro fit for a standard 8 inch burner opening, that can probabaly replace the burner on a GE stove (not sure though), as it has a connector and controller. Electric coil stoves are here to stay for quite some time. Gas isn't an option if your neighborhood has no gas lines, and I wouldn't want to deal with propane for use on a stove.

Another link is as follows- http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=104168

Here is a link that might be useful: Jenn-Aire Canning elements

The link I provided above, doesn't seem to go to the proper page, so once your there, type in the words "canning element" in the SEARCH box on that web site.

I have a Jenn Air cook top and do a much less canning than you guys. Do you think I should buy one of these coils? Why?

Thanks ksrogers,

I'm also wondering about the different numbers of coils that are on an element. For example, on the large element, only GE and Whirlpool have 6 rings, whereas the others have 5 rings.
I'm wondering if you can replace a 5 ring element with a 6 ring element(even though the over-all element total diameter is the same?) Supposedly the ones with the 6 coils heats up alot faster. So I was wondering if I bought one of those smaller coil stoves, if I could just replace the coils with other ones (IF they fit the stove's plug-ins).

My original 8 inch burners had 5 rings, and the replacement was a 6 ring. The wattage is probably a bit higher in the 6 ring, similar to the two kinds that were in the link I supplied. GE burners, I am not sure of, but most of the other brands offer economy and/or deluxe, burner replacements which will fit any of the brands other than GE. The GE, may only have a single style. I did see that the socket and controller was also supplied for one of the replacement burners. It may even allow you to replace the GE socket and burner on a GE stove, for the more popular type, but I am not sure. Most all regular stove ranges have two 8 inch and two 6 inch burners, you cannot replace a 6 inch with an 8 inch due to the round cutout size of each burner hole.

Thanks ks,
Yes, I know you can't use an 8" element in a 6" hole. I'm not THAT stupid. lololol!
I just didn't know if it would burn my house down, if I tried to go from a 5 ring to a 6 ring replacement.
When you say that the socket and controller was supplied for one of the replacement burners, does that mean you have to wire stuff in yourself?

I believe so. Either unplugging the stove, or switching off its fuse/circuit breaker are necessary if any wiring is to be done inside. The only difference in the 5 and 6 ring is the little difference in wattage, which would not matter if the control was electronic. I believe the controller and socket (shown on the link) are used for some stoves that may have defective sockets or controllers. Many years ago when the burners were the older flat, and wider coils (only 2-3) the controller would burn out before the burners. With these burners having a wattage that is only a couple of hundred watts difference, at 220 volts, that amont of difference wouldn't matter much. Worst case would be that the controller would fail (never seen that happen with newer stoves), which is fairly easy to replace. A simple screwdriver and pliers are usually the only things needed to fix these. Every year, I remove each burner and use a stiff wire brush on the contacts to clean off any oxidation. If they are badly oxidized, the socket would get replaced as well, which takes just one screw and five minutes.

Could somebody help me out here? I need to order a canning element and I can't figure out the difference between this one and this one. They're the same size, and they have the same type connector as the elements I have now, one of which is sitting on my computer desk for comparison purposes. Any hints?

Julie

The SECOND 'this one' is a true canning element. Its actually raised above the burner by more than an inch. The left 'this one' is the standard high count coil burner. I have the one on the right, and use it only when canning as it has a perforated metal side heat shield (look carefully, can be seen in the photo). Besides that, where the actual connections are, there is a vertical bend about 2 inches in, where it is raised higher above the stove. Also, the metal struts that hold it are much thicker on the canning element, and don't tend to bend and soften when heated red hot like the one of on the left.

I use electric stoves in my apartments. I've replaced lots of elements and had many receptors melt due to heavy use by Mexican tenants. They use large stock pots and it takes a toll on the burners. They are easy to replace and only cost about $10-12 so I can't see spending $50-60 on heavy duty elements for rental property. The most frequent problem is the wires burning into just behind the receptor. This would happen with the better elements also. The wiring in high dollar electric stoves are no better than the wiring in the cheapos... I've checked. Would I buy the good elements for my own home? Maybe, but not because they are safer or less prone to burn the wires into. They may last longer than the cheaper ones(probably do) but the main reason would be because they likely do a better and faster job of getting water to the boil. I have NO experience cooking on electric stoves but I've fixed a bunch of them. I'm relatively new to canning but I've already figured out that a gas turkey fryer is far superior to my gas cook top, which I understand is better than an electric stove. Thus... if it were me I'd invest in a turkey fryer. That puppy puts out some heat. Mine is on the back porch just outside the kitchen. Mine does such a great job of getting water to the boil fast that I'm considering buying one of those two burner types.

Ken, what's the perforated shield for? They both say they're for canning, and they both appear to raise a couple inches off the stove. I haven't had any trouble with BWB canning on my stove, but I just got a pressure canner and would hate to ruin my stovetop with the longer heating times.

A turkey fryer would be pretty cool, but the wind on my back porch is too crazy. Plus, I'd be even more tempted to fry everything I ever eat. :-)

Julie

The cheaper one does not appear to elevate the coil. The three ends of the metal frame fit down inside the edge of the drip pan just like the ones that come with the stove. If the more expensive one does in fact elevate the coil it would be a good thing. It would put the heat source further from the receptor. I've seen those receptacles melt from extended cooking sessions. Considering that you would only have to buy one(assuming you only needed one) I'd give it a try.

Because the element is raised up off the stove about 1-2 inches, the red hot heat radiated out the SIDES of the burner can scorch most stoves. Mine is only 3 years old now, and when I didn't use the raised canning burner, the stove was so badly burned around the reflector ring that I had to use mild abrasives (Soft Scrub and elbow grease) to remove all the blackened stuff. It didn't mater how clean the stove was before I started either. The reflectors on my regular burners that were used with the canner have rusted badly now, and need replacement. I also use those disposable aluminium 'burner bibs', but they tend to vaporize after only one canning session. Because the canner is a LOT bigger than the 8 inch burner, there is a need to keep heat concentrated inside the burner area, as opposed to allowing the heat to project out and against that stove top. After all, you do not have any reflector bowl surrounding the burner anymore, as the burner is raised up well above the reflector bowl.

As to the sockets, they should always be inspected and replaced if the burner has problems turning red (control set on high). I have already had to do that with the single burner I used prior to switching to the cannning burner. Once you remove/unplug the burner from its socket and it looks like its gray and oxidized, it should be wired brushed and the socket should be replaced. Unplug or shut off the stive breaker, unscrew the single screw that holds the socket in place, and remove the socket a little. It will be wired to to other wires using 'wire nuts'. These simply get unscrewed, and you untwist the wires. Reverse this process when replacing the socket and your good to go for a while. The socket are made of metal and Bakelite, which is somewat heat resistant to a point.

Essentially, what your wanting to do is to raise the electric element high enough off the stove so it doesn't damage the stove surface, as well as helps to keeping the metal bruner support struts from softening and sagging when they also become red hot from all that continous heat.

Consider this- have you ever brought something to a boil and allowed that hard boiling to continue for an hour or more? I doubt that anything other than a canner would need all that time and heat at the same time

I agree that gas is a better way to go for home canning, but if its not piped onto your street, and your only option is propane, I would rather deal with the electric burners. I do miss my gas stove in the old rental apartment, as it was also great for getting a wok for stir frys nice and hot .

Hi Catherinet,

My new stove worked great. The burners sit a little higher up so I didn't have a blacked mess underneath. The elements also heated up really fast. I'm all done with my canning until spring now.
Diane

Hi Diane,
Glad to hear everything went well for you. You just used the original element on it for canning, right?
I'm still trying to decide between GE and Whirlpool. I think I could probably adjust to the larger element in front being on the left on the Whirlpool. I've just had bad experience with GE in the past, and didn't want to give them my business. But that was 15 years ago, so maybe they're quality is better.
When I got this GE stove, within 2 years, the oven had rusted, the clock/timer quit working, there were chips all over the top, I was getting shocked while stirring something, etc., etc. I hope your's holds up better!

If you want to make use of the canning elements, then you cannot use the GE brand of stoves. That brand dosn't have the same kind of plug-in elements, so the canning element wouldn't work. How come your only focused on GE and Whirlpool? I am not sure about the Whirlpool, but beleve its the same as Kenmore, which use the more commonly available elements. There are also several other stove makers. Admittedly, my mom bought a Kenmore over 20+ years ago until the oven element burned out and there was no easy replacement, so it had to be replaced. On the other hand, my newer (less the 3 years old) Fridgedaire oven element burned out and was easily fixed. As it turned out, some time ago, some tomato sauce had dripped onto the bottom element and because these are made much thinner now, it corroded very quickly and cause a short which opened (actually fried) the element into several pieces. It was under warranty, so was easily replaced. I will consider buying a spare oven element soon, only because it did take several days to get fixed, and you just don't want someting like that happening a day before Thanksgiving.