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rooting and cutting perennial herbs
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Posted by rexa 6 (My Page) on Thu, Oct 29, 09 at 6:47
| I'm curious what you all do to root cuttings of perennials as I'm trying to get my french tarragon to root, but no success...I dipped the cut ends into root hormone/anti-fungicide, then placed it into a very moist peatmoss/perlite medium....i've tried on 5 different cuttings and have had 5 failures thus far (shriveled up and dies). Can anyone give me a clue as to what I'm doing wrong? I'm taking my cuttings from as close to the base of the plant that I can, then cutting that at a 45 degree angle with sterilized scissors. Should I just root in water? If so, do I need anything in the water? Thanks so much |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: rooting and cutting perennial herbs
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| Striking cuttings in water will produce only those roots which take up water, so often they don't transplant well, because they need to grow the nutrient-feeding roots. There is also the high risk of the stem rotting in water. Let's face it, water isn't their natural growing medium, so it's a bit rough to expect a plant to reacreate itself that way! Just use ordinary potting mix, or special seed-raising mix which has much finer particles. Don't fertilise it - too much food in its early development days is as harsh as force-feeding your baby! Just keep the soil moist but not soggy, give it some bottom heat if your temps are cold, and leave it to do its own thing. Be patient! If your cuttings have a lot of leaves, remove the top bits, and with scissors or secateurs parallel to the stem, chop off about half of all the leaves. This prevents excess transpiration, and makes the cutting work harder at producing roots, rather than keeping the leaves alive. Instead of using rooting hormone, use pure honey instead. I have always had better results this way. Tarragon is slow to ‘strike’. It can also be propagated by dividing the whole plant in early spring before new shoots appear. This is best done every 3 years in cooler areas and every 2 years in warmer regions. Tarragon requires a cold period each year, so when dividing the root crowns, refrigerate them for about 2-3 months or freeze them for about a week or longer before planting. Usually becomes dormant during winter and may be difficult to grow in warmer climates. In cold climates, cut the plants to the ground after frost has killed the top growth and mulch well with straw. Foliage dies back in winter. |
RE: rooting and cutting perennial herbs
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| hmmm- i'm thinking my soil might have been way too moist-thanks for the tips...i was keeping my soil VERY moist & covering with a plastic dome...i also think i had too many leaves on each stem I was trying to root...do i need to remove the TOP leaves and bottom leaves? Also, I never would have thought of honey, i'll try that next. |
RE: rooting and cutting perennial herbs
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| Great tips, as usual, Daisy! Posts like this remind me that I should lurk more often in this forum. Thank you for the honey tip - I'll do that next time I try to root Rosemary. I'm not too successful with that, and I'm actually surprised whenever I get a rosemary cutting to root and grow. G'doc Quote: RE: rooting and cutting perennial herbs clip this post email this post what is this? see most clipped and recent clippings Posted by daisyduckworth Aust (My Page) on Thu, Oct 29, 09 at 8:54 Striking cuttings in water will produce only those roots which take up water, so often they don't transplant well, because they need to grow the nutrient-feeding roots. There is also the high risk of the stem rotting in water. Let's face it, water isn't their natural growing medium, so it's a bit rough to expect a plant to reacreate itself that way! Just use ordinary potting mix, or special seed-raising mix which has much finer particles. Don't fertilise it - too much food in its early development days is as harsh as force-feeding your baby! Just keep the soil moist but not soggy, give it some bottom heat if your temps are cold, and leave it to do its own thing. Be patient! If your cuttings have a lot of leaves, remove the top bits, and with scissors or secateurs parallel to the stem, chop off about half of all the leaves. This prevents excess transpiration, and makes the cutting work harder at producing roots, rather than keeping the leaves alive. Instead of using rooting hormone, use pure honey instead. I have always had better results this way. End Quote. |
RE: rooting and cutting perennial herbs
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They also have a rooting powder(hormone). I did not get good resultys with it. I root mines mostly in water first. As soon as they grow roots I transplant them in a soil medium similar to seeds soil and finally they go into the garden' This past season I rooted the following: -tarragon (only one or two success of many tried) -red shiso (lots of them) - Thai basils (lots of them) -Chinese celery ( 3 or 4) - Korean mints ( few) - Tomatoes, from my own cuttings; 100% success - Lemon Grass (lots ) The problem with rooting in soil (at least my problem) is that you(the amature = I) don't know what is going on.Whereas in water you can see it, check it, throw away rotted ones. Sometimes I throw a pinch of garden soil in the water. Voilla! there goes the food for the roots!!! You have to cut the end wwith a razor sharp knife and put them in the water right away. Never use pinced or scisors or dull knife cutting. BUT pinch the excess leaves off. Pinchimg kind of closes the capilary tubes and sort of seals. It is the same idea that you wouln't cut lettuce for salad, but do it with pinching action with your bare hands. |
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