The named garden cultivars are generally bred for size and color, not flavor. I would go with a standard, no name variety that you like the smell/taste of. Or if deciding to do some ordering from mail order/online vendors, I'd go with ones from the herb seed/plant vendors as those will probably be ones with a good taste and smell.

FataMorgana

I've got lots of different kinds of bee balm and they all smell good. Should I just try different ones to see which one makes the best tea?

They are just wonderful for keeping the deer out of the roses and blueberries. So far, we have red, white, light pink, medium pink, burgandy and a pretty pink/purple. One of the red ones got 5' tall, but the rest stay at about 2' to 3' tall :)