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Fixed my Yellow Leaves Problem!

sharonlf
17 years ago

I have been having occasional problems with yellowing leaves on my hibiscus. I have five of them planted in a row. The two that are partly shaded don't get many yellowed leaves but the other three get several. A couple of weeks ago I read a tip on adding 1 cup of vinegar to one gallon of water to help this and other acid loving plants. You just apply it to the soil at the base of the plant. You do NOT pour it on the leaves. It actually worked...and pretty quickly! I was really happily surprised. All my hibiscus are now nice and green and the yellow leaves are gone. I just thought I'd pass the tip along in case anyone else was having that problem.

Comments (59)

  • susieq07
    15 years ago

    Hibiscus DO NOT LIKE WET FEET so do not over water or keep soil wet, they like dry soil with occasional watering..I feed mine plant food for acid loving plants but not now in the winter or dry season...been growing them 29 years here in FL. also best not to plant on north side of home, they do not like cold, will freeze, and frost will set them back severely.
    My pink one:

  • wasted_wages
    13 years ago

    I am a newbie and not sure if this is going to sound silly or not :)

    I also have a hibiscus that is blooming and very healthy seeming except that it is getting yellow leaves and then drops them. I was reading this thread on vinegar and water, but am concerned that since mine is in a pot that it may harm it. I was wondering if coffee wouldn't do the same thing as vinegar? I know both my mom and grandma used to feed tea and coffee to their acid loving plants and they always did well.

    I also should mention that I have only had this plant for a week so had considered it may be just shock from moving that turned the leaves. But it seems to be getting more and I really don't want to kill it. It was a gift from my boyfriend and he would never let me live it down :). Plus it's pretty lol.

    No sure what variety of hibiscus it is as it didn't come with a tag, but it's been trained to grow into a standard. Not sure if that makes them more prone to stress? I also have it in partial Shad, would it like full sun better?

  • doveuvpeace_yahoo_com
    12 years ago

    The hibiscus I planted last year never did well and had a big problem with the yellowing/dropping leaves. I have 2 new ones and want to prevent that... Am going to try the vinegar idea since we have very hard well water and that could be the problem. How often do you water with it? The article didn't say exactly, but it sounded like once a month might be good?

  • cathaleya_gmail_com
    12 years ago

    Hi there,

    I just got a Hibiscus from a local nursery. It was huge, had lush green leaves and big orange flowers. The next few days at home on the balcony (90s out and 75% humidity) where it gets full sun, the leaves began to wilt before turning yellow, and began dropping off, as well as the flower buds.

    I quickly switched to another part of the balcony where it gets full indirect sun, watered more and leaves/petals misted with water about 3-4 times a day. What a huge change for it literally overnight!

    Just wanted to share the misting part! Some leaves are still dropping off, but at least it's slowed down. I'll try a more diluted version of the white vinegar water ratio since mine is potted.

  • AMaji
    12 years ago

    Cathy,

    Hibs like that misting during hot summer days. Your specimen may have been growing in a partially shaded area, so sudden exposure to the sun shocked it. You did the right thing. Now, try to get some seaweed and spray your plant according the manufacturer's direction. Seaweed lessens stress in plants, and it should help your plant recover faster and become stronger.

    Good luck.

  • tke735
    11 years ago

    Well, I guess this answered my question. I had the same problem with my peach hibiscus flowers turning to yellow. Did the vinegar/water solution and they then started dying. Well - the problem was, it was not explained that the solution given was for IN GROUND hibiscus and not potted (which mine were). I am trying to save them, have taken them out of the pots and removed all the soil from the root ball, and rinsed them in fresh water. Planning on repotting them in fresh soil to see if they revive. Wish me luck! If not, lesson learned. Only wish the suggestion had said it was for in ground plants. :(

  • sharonlf
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I had forgotten this post was still around. tke735, I'm sorry that I wasn't clear enough that my hibiscus are planted in the ground. I mentioned that I had five of them planted in a row and I guess I just assumed that people would know that they are in the ground. Here in Arizona most plants don't do as well in pots due to the extreme heat. Sorry.

  • ourjain
    8 years ago

    I put rocks all around the top of the roots & that seemed to fix the leaves turning yellow. I tried the vinegar & water, but they were still turning yellow.

  • Gail Stevens-Cryer
    8 years ago

    MY BEAUTIFUL HIBISCUS HAS TAKEN A SEVERE TURN FOR THE WORST !!! LEAVES STARTED YELLOWING N DROPPING BUT I ALSO NOTICE THE CLUSTERING OF LEAVES NEAR AND AT THE TIPS... U MENTIONED A DEFICIENCY... WOULD U KNOW WHAT KIND ??? BOUT READY TO GIVE UP ON THIS ONCE GORGEOUS PAINTED LADY... I ALSO USE MG FOR ACID LOVING PLANTS...

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    8 years ago

    How long have you had it? Ever repotted it? Ever potted up a pot size? If it's not suffering from root rot it can probably be brought around, but I'll wait for your answers so I'm not jumping to any conclusions. Where do you live - state & large city near you?

    Al

  • Gail Stevens-Cryer
    8 years ago

    I HAD JUST REPOTTED IT LAST WK... THOUGHT THAT MIGHT'VE BEEN THE PART OF PROB... LIVE IN TULSA OK ... ZONE 7A... ROOTS LOOKED OK N STEMS STILL GREEN INSIDE... THOUGHT IT WAS MORE TROUBLE THAN ITS WORTH... HAVE 6 ROSE OF SHARONS 6 HARDY AND 18 TROPICAL HIBISCUS ) SO TOOK IT BACK TO LOWES... WOULD STILL LIKE ANY ADVICE CAUSE NEVER KNIW WHEN I MIGHT ENCOUNTER AGAIN... TYSM...

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    8 years ago

    If you're interested in getting to the point where you can rely on your ability to maintain plants in containers over the long haul, I can help. The wall that most container gardeners hit and never get over is an understanding of how much your soil choice influences your ability to keep your plants healthy. The minimum standard for a soil should be that you can water to beyond saturation with no concern your soil will remain soggy so long it affects root health or impairs root function. Once you understand what a truly good soil is and what your soil needs to provide for your plant, you're over the wall. Things get much easier from there.

    Let me encourage you to read this overview of growing plants in pots. Even though it's primarily aimed at houseplants, the information still all applies to plants grown outdoors. When you've finished, this thread about how water behaves in soils will allow you to take the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. Understanding and implementing the concept described there in detail should make a significant difference in how much you get in return for your growing efforts.

    Al

  • Gail Stevens-Cryer
    8 years ago

    WOW TAPIA... TYSM FOR ALL THE INFO... WILL MAKE GREAT BEDTIME READING :)... I APPRECIATE ALL UR HELP WITH POTTED PLANTS... NOT QUITE SURE WHAT WENT WRONG W/ THAT ONE CAUSE IY WAS POTTED N TREATED THE SAME AS MY TWO HIB. TREES... AT ONE POINT LOST ALL THE LEAVES ON TREES WHICH I SPRAYED W/ EPSOM SALT/ WATER N THEY'VE GROWN BACK BUSHIER N BLOOMING LIKE CRAZY... I WILL BE NEEDING HELP W/ WINTERIZING 16 ( 1 1/2 FT) TROPICAL HIBISCUS... THEY ARE CURRENTLY IN THR GROUND... WILL DIG THEM UP WHEN IT GETS DOWN TO AROUND 40... IN LESS THEYBLOOK LIKE THEY NEED TO COME UP SOONER.,. AGAIN TYSM FOR UR HELP,..









  • candyehicks02
    8 years ago

    My hibiscus is in a mixed pot with other flowers. Can I still use the bleach /water solution without hurting the other plants.? :)

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    8 years ago

    Sodium is required in very small amounts for normal plant growth, but very quickly reaches toxicity levels. Household bleach (active ingredient sodium hypochlorite) can be useful at 10% solutions to sterilize pots and disinfect cuttings (rinse thoroughly after), but can also be extremely phytotoxic and is inherently caustic. Bleach is not something you should consider nutritionally useful for plants.

    Al

  • pwkelly711
    8 years ago

    I have a Yellow Tropical Hibiscus in a large Pot. It had hundreds of blooms the first couple months of this summer. Many many more than my 5 others. All of a sudden it kept up with the large number of blooms(10-13/day) but they were trumpet shaped! I thought of the bloom booster. I put the 0-30-0 on and they flattened back out for about a week. But they are trumpet shaped again!

    i also want to sound off on dropping yellow leaves! Lack of Nitrogen! Went with a 12-6-10 high nitrogen dose of liquid fertilizer followed by an application of composted manure on top of the soil in the pot and every pot turned green!

    Phil Kelly

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    8 years ago

    Did I just roll my eyes out loud? If I did, I apologize.

    Hibiscus REALLY does not like high P fertilizers. 12-6-10, in the o/a scheme of things is not a high N fertilizer, but IF it's used on hibiscus would be considered a high-P fertilizer.

    Lack of N is one potential cause for chlorotic foliage - there are many others. Only IF, your plants were suffering from a N deficiency would they turn foliage green. Others should take what I said to mean that N isn't THE cure for yellow foliage, it's a cure for a N deficiency that may or not manifest itself in chlorotic foliage.

    The N content in composted manure is usually listed as .5% (that's 1/2 of 1%), so we wouldn't look at applications of composted manure as a logical remedy for a N deficiency, nor would we suspect it as the reason foliage suddenly went from yellow to green.

    Al

  • talonmark
    8 years ago

    I also had problems with my hibiscus leaves turning yellow in the Tampa area and assumed that it was a N deficiency but my lawn care employee said it was a fungus. So they sprayed something for the fungus and the yellowing went away.

  • bryanj9798
    8 years ago

    Hidden Valley Hibiscus...A go-to for hibiscus needs. Fertilizer is amazing and what they do there is a science.


    http://www.exotic-hibiscus.com



  • bryanj9798
    8 years ago

  • Violet Verbena
    7 years ago

    I am having no luck with my 3 year old hibiscus planted in a pot. I noticed a few yellow leaves the other day, more the next day and I sprayed it with Bayer 3 in 1 yesterday. I kept the plant out of the sun all day. This morning there are significantly more yellow leaves, nearly 1/2 the plant. What would cause the leaves to turn yellow that quickly? I don't see signs of spider mites, but that's what I suspected at first, and I doubt it's fertilizer issues because why would the leaves change so quickly? Anyone have any ideas?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    ...... lots of ideas, but more info is required - like where do you live? What fertilizer do you use? have you repotted this year? ....... any other information about watering habits, soil choice, plant indoors or outdoors, light levels where it's currently sited and have light levels changed recently, how long have you owned the plant, its age, pot size, temperature range where it's sited ............


    Al

  • Violet Verbena
    7 years ago

    It's a pink seminole hibiscus. I live in Jax, FL, 9a. I've owned it for 2 years (going into the 3rd summer), and haven't repotted it (except after I bought it, it went into a larger pot at nursery's rec). I put dynamite fertilizer around the base about a month ago. It's outside year round, and comes in when a frost is forecasted. It's in basic potting soil, pruned it back last year. It was looking lush until about 2 weeks ago. Last season I would spray the hibiscus ( I own 3 in pots and had a small yard last year) about once a month with bayer 3-in-1. And then it goes back to looking great and the yellow leaves stop. (No need to do this during dormant season)

    The only unusual thing I see with it, and this has been going on for a long time, is that there is dark smudge where the leave meets the stem & travels up the vein of the stem. I've shown it to nursery owner, she didn't know what it was, and I've looked at HVH site, and there's no mention of it.

    Thanks for your interest, hope I've answered all your questions.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Hibiscus have very vigorous root systems and need repotting (as opposed to potting up) every year for best performance. Repotting includes bare-rooting the plant, root pruning, and replacing the old soil - preferably with one structured such that you can water to beyond saturation at will (so you're flushing accumulating mineral salts from fertilizers and tap water from the soil as you water) without having to worry the soil will remain wet so long it inhibits root function and/or wrecks root health. This is a key issue for all container plantings. My advice would be to repot now into an appropriate medium and prune the plant. Keep close control of your watering habits and make sure you're fertilizing with something appropriate. Dynamite makes a couple of fertilizers that would be appropriate for hibiscus and several that aren't ..... and how you fertilize this plant is a little more important than what you would call an average plant. Where most average plants do very well using 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers (examples of 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers: 24-8-16, 12-4-8, 9-3-6) Hibiscus prefer something more like 3:1:3 or 3:1:4 ratios. Notice how I make distinction between NPK %s and a fertilizer's RATIO. The RATIO is what determines how suitable a fertilizer is for a given plant.

    You didn't note the NPK %s of the Dynamite you're using, and that can be very important with Hibiscus, which prefers fertilizers low in P, which makes any fertilizer advertised as a 'bloom booster' or 'bloom enhancing' product inappropriate.

    You'll find a lot of good information here that will help you with repotting and long term care of woody material in pots. Let me know if you have questions - especially about the importance of repotting or nutritional supplementation.

    Can you provide pictures of the dark smudge you mentioned?

    Al

  • Violet Verbena
    7 years ago

    Well, that's part of my problem, I'm using Dynamite Plant & Vegetable food: 13-13-13.

    Here's a couple pics of the smudge (although it's not so bad now, it will become darker at the underneath base of leaf and I can scrape it with my fingernail) and the size of my plant in it's pot.

    When I took these pics, I noticed webbing at a couple tips, so gave it another dose of Bayer 3-in-1.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    The 'smudge' looks like sooty mold growing on honeydew (excreta) from insects.

    13-13-13 isn't a good choice for Hibiscus. If you want to stick with a Dynamite produce, try 13-5-11 palm/citrus formulation and use a little Pro-TeKt 0-0-3 from time to time. Pro-TeKt contains the extra K the fertilizer doesn't provide and also offers the added benefit of silicon in an opalene form the plant can easily take up. The silicon strengthens cells and offers several other benefits (greater resistance to heat, diseases, insect predation, ........


    Al

  • Violet Verbena
    7 years ago

    Awesome, thanks tapla. Last question - checking out the pic, is it time for me to pot up?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    It's time to REPOT. Potting up ensures your plant will continue to be limited by congestion in the original root mass, potting up entirely relieves the limitations associated with root congestion. See the link I left you upthread for a more thorough explanation.


    Al

  • Genny Brezina
    5 years ago

    Worst advice I've ever received was to add vinegar!!!!! Don't anyone else fall for this. My hibiscus is losing it's leaves. They will all my gone later tonight. They're turning yellow and I am hoping I didn't kill the plant. So mad!!!!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    5 years ago

    Genny - under high soil pH conditions, vinegar works as a prophylactic and remedy for iron and other
    micronutrient deficiencies. So does citric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric
    acid, and several other acidic compounds. While it might be true you received bad advice, such an assertive condemnation of vinegar as potential resolution of iron and other micronutrient deficiencies is unwarranted. Used appropriately, it can lower the pH of the soil solution and prevent/reverse binding of several nutrients to other elements and compounds such that they become insoluble and unavailable for comment.

    If you describe what you did, I might be able to identify where you went wrong. As with many elements and compounds with the potential to benefit or limit a plant's vitality, the poison is in the dosage.

    AL

  • iscani
    4 years ago

    Well, I’m not too sure what exactly is going on here!! Whatever this might be, it seems extreme, happened within a few days, and was wondering if anybody kindly had suggestions? I originally thought it was a watering issue, yet it only affects three stalks. Quite confused!

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago

    Tapla, you still around? Need help with this problem. Will give detail if still around.

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago

    Sweet, do you want me to leave my detailed description here, or email it to you?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    I'm so far behind in my emails from Houzz/GW you might never get a reply. Here is better.

    I've been pruning and repotting all day in the heat, and I'm beat, so I won't see your message until I come in for a break around midday Sunday. Take care.

    Al

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago

    Hey no problem. Here it is:

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago
    • I live in Lakeland, FL and need some hibiscus help. I am going to give as much detail as possible so you have the best understanding of where I am at and what has been done.
    • I bought two tropical hibiscus plants in March or early April. Planted them in decent soil for Florida. North side of the house about 15 feet away from house, in full sun all day long.Weve watered them once a day when it didnt rain consistently. Both had been fully green, healthy, and growing well until a couple weeks ago.
    • In May, we had a thrip problem (IDd by Univ of Florida). I sprayed seven on the leaves and gave it bayer advanced 3 in 1 (fertilizer, fungus and insect protection). As instructed, I diluted the solution by 50% of the instructions. I also was persistent in taking off heads that were weak and about to fall off that the thrips had laid eggs in. They seemed to both take it well and really took off after with the bug problem was solved.

      But, a couple weeks ago, out of the blue (and when the humidity really ramped up a week after the 98 degree dry weather), the bottom and center-most leaves started to turn yellow. Then, it continued to get worse and worse. We were still watering once a day the first couple days
    • Someone we know who is an irrigation guru but also an expert in plants suggested putting down salt. we put down a 1/4 cup. Really didnt do much. He also suggested not watering them at all because they could be getting over watered and lots of rain was forecasted.

      My gut said water more but we followed instructions and havent watered them in a week. It has rained probably 3 times in the last week. I ordered a 3 in 1 PH meter for the soil to see where we are at. It arrives Monday.

    I have read where we should water at least twice a day in this heat and also read only a couple times a week, at most, with the plant getting so much water from the humidity of the air. So, not really sure where to go or what to do. Hopefully you can provide some guidance.

    I also am not sure if once the yellowing starts, it has to run its course from bottom to top or not.

    Attached are pictures. The first two and last two are from July 6th (about 4 days after it started). The middle one (only took a pick of one of the plants as the other is essentially the same) is from today.
    Let me know what other info I can provide!

    Thank you for your time and info!

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago







  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago



  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago




  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago



  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago



  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    Applying salt (NaCl) is perfect! ....... as an example of a decidedly bad idea. Sodium (Na) is an essential element for normal growth, but it becomes toxic very quickly when it exceeds appropriate (extremely low) levels. Salt also raises the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution, which makes it more difficult for the plant to take up water and the nutrients dissolved in water. There might be a handful of terrestrial plants that grow near bodies of saltwater or in saline soils, but they are few and the proclivity would be well-known if it was a landscape plant used as commonly as hibiscus. No plant expert would suggest applying table salt to landscape plants.

    Check carefully for mites. They usually affect older and lower leaves first. Are you fertilizing? Any idea what your soil has/lacks in the way of nutrients?


    Hibiscus stands out as something of an exception insofar as its nutritional wants are concerned. It likes more K than N and only VERY small amounts of P. the RATIO of a fertilizer for hibiscus in containers would be somewhere very close to 6:1:10. Since how your soil tests out impacts how you fertilize, We have no idea what's appropriate for trees in the ground, If your soil leans toward sand/sandy loam, it's likely the ratio above would be close. Do you understand the difference between a fertilizer's RATIO and it's NPK %s? An example will probable explain, in case you don't know. 20-20-20 and 5-5-5 are both 1:1:1 ratio fertilizers. 9-3-6 is a 3:1:2 ratio, and 12-2-20 would be a 6:1:10 ratio. Nutritional deficiencies of the mobile nutrients (N,P,K,Cl,Z,Mo) show up in older leaves and leaves closest to the trunk.

    When you planted out, did you bare root the plant (best to do)? Or, did you simply separate the plant from the pot and drop it in a planting hole? Do you have a nematode problem where you live? Bayer 3-in-1 for Insect Disease and Mite Control is a better choice of product and should be used according to package instructions, not halved.

    To me, it looks like over or under-watering (symptoms the same) or nutritional, possibly insects (mites). If you're watering while you can easily detect moisture in soil surrounding roots, it raises the probability of over-watering, so cut back. If every time you check the soil is bone dry, things would point toward under-watering. I'm in MI, so can't be of much help in the watering dept. BTW - does your home have a water softener? If yes, is it an ionic exchange system (requires salt), and has water at the hose bib been routed around the softener (if you have one)?

    Al

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Lets see if I can explain some things and give you more feedback.

    We planted them 3+ months ago. I am *pretty* sure we bare rooted the plant. I cant remember for sure as it was a long time ago, but I do know we have done it to other plants since. So I would assume so.

    We have been watering once a day. Florida has pretty sandy soil but this bed does have "regular" soil mxed in. It has always seemed to drain really well due to the type of soil. I also know that our soils to hold on to a much nutrients and need fertilizer to grow things. The only thing I am aware that changed was the humidity factor. The plants were doing great for months.

    While checking the soil the past week or 10 days, it has not been water logged. Sometimes it has been damp to maybe slightly damp. Never seemed bone dry.

    Problem is, I have seen experts online say to water once to twice a week and others to water once a day in temps 70 to 80 and two-three times a day in the summer (but the caveat with the later is they are located in sunny, dry southern california). So not sure what is accurate.

    Does a higher humidity (even though a higher temperature) cause the plant to soak up less water from the ground and more out of the air?

    Is there an easy way I can test the soil and see what nutrients it has?

    I do have a 3 in 1 tester coming tomorrow that will let me know PH and moisture level of the soil.

    I have not seen any mites. What should I be looking for? Not aware of a nematode issue either. But cant rule it out for sure. the Bayer 3 in 1 (and seven on the leaves) should have taken care of that no? I can also spray the leaves with spinosad or neem oil.

    As far as fertilizer, the 3 in 1 bayer, the guys at University of Florida extension said fertilizers like that have too much nitrogen for ornamentals who like low nitrogen, so we should cut it in half. thats why I did.

    The expert also said that hibiscus can have yellowing leaves due to low magnesium and to use 1/4 a cup of epsom salt to fix that problem. thats why we did that.

    Right before these leaves started turning yellow, I bought 9-4-9 hibiscus/palm tree fertilizer. Have yet to put that down because I was instructed to not water for now or put down fertilizer for a few weeks.

    We do not have a water softener.

    Not sure where to go from here. Just hard to figure out why they were doing so well then, exactly at the same time, started this same issue the same way.

    anything else I can provide?

    Thanks again for your help!

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago

    More info: i received my meter today. Currently, moisture is in the middle. Ph is 7.5 to 8, def pretty alkaline.


    Please respond whenver you get a chance! Thanks!

  • HU-463820509
    4 years ago

    you must be pretty busy, understandable!


    today, we put down 949 ornamental fertilizer and organic matter. Hope this works!!

  • Raelene McGinley
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    What type of vinegar?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Can you be more specific - are you asking as an offshoot of what you read in the opening post or something offered subsequent to the OP, and what might that have been?

    Vinegar can be highly toxic to plants. Several products containing higher concentrations of acetic acid than the vinegar in your cupboard are sold and applied as a nonselective herbicide. Like many other products, the poison is in the dosage. White vinegar appropriately incorporated into your care regimen to lower soil solution pH in containerized plantings can free up elements that precipitate out of the solution at higher pH levels.

    The problem with using it for plants in the landscape centers on this fact: The high buffering capacity of soil means you have to use a lot of the product and use it very often to make a difference in pH levels significant enough to make a detectable difference; and this brings us back full circle to the fact the poison is in the dose. The short version is, on plants in the ground, you have to use it at levels high enough you should be concerned about toxicities to move the pH needle enough to make a difference.

    If you know your soil pH (of your landscape) and have concerns it is higher than what you'd like to plant prefers, choose another plant or use sulfur or a compound containing sulfur (depending on what your soil test suggests) to lower pH. Keep in mind, no matter what you start amending with to provide a happy home for plants that don't approve of your soil's natural pH, it will become a necessity if you are to keep those plants happy over the long term. In the end, the right plant for the right spot is a better MO with less heartache and effort.


    Al

  • study soni
    3 years ago

    I am from jaipur india 10 to 15 days ago i reppoted my hibiscus plant from smaller pot to biggger one

    Hibiscus its grafted one which gives lots of flowers first with few leaves

    And now its in shock

    dropping leaves and almost all leaves are becoming yellow

    Now the difference is before repoting it was in full day sun now in shady area

    And soil is fully drained

    What should i do now to help it to recover rather than die

    Should i put it in some sunny area

    Btw now its winter season in jaipur india

    I need fast help me please

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