Well, there is a difference between a chlorotic leaf and a dying leaf. IF they are yellowing and dropping off a few days thereafter, that really isn't truly chlorosis. A chlorotic leaf survives, but lacks sufficient chlorophyl to be dark green, and often does display patterns, but those vary depending upon the type of mineral deficiency.

If the plant basically is doing well, I would chalk it up more to tranplant shock or just adapting to its new environment than anything else. I have notices with mine that, no matter how well I treat it, when it starts to put on a flush of new growth and flower buds, the older leaves tend to yellow and drop -- I think that this may just be natural, that the plant is "recycling" its resources into the new growth. And this happens every time I move them up to a bigger pot, I believe it is because they are growing many new roots at this time.

I would wonder if you are overwatering when you say you water it every day -- that could be necessary depending upon pot size, weather, etc., and could be fine, but just make sure it is drying out a little bit before watering it. Root rot can be a problem on tropical hibiscus.

I also don't think it would hurt a bit to treat it for chlorosis, even if that isn't really the problem. It certainly can't hurt anything as long as you follow the directions on the product you use.