I am not sure what you are saying. If you want cuttings to sprout in pots and protect over the winter and transplant in the spring you shouldn't have too much of a problem if you think they will winter over dry, no. Hardy hibiscus also produce seeds which can be used also. If your hibiscus gets too leggy you should prune anyway as they produce their blooms on the new wood anyway. If you can root them early enough in the warm season you should be able to transplant them this year, if not protect until next spring. Here we just don't have that problem of having to protect in the winter except maybe last winter.

the following was cut and pasted into this thread.....so does anyone have good success with propagating this way?

The easiest way of propagating hibiscus is by hardwood cuttings taken the last month of winter or in early spring. This is the normal pruning time anyway, so avail yourself of the ample supply of wood. Make sure that you have a small makeshift glasshouse or coldframe ready to protect the cuttings from wind, prevent them from drying out, and provide the necessary extra warmth required to encourage root growth.

Select strong, straight wood, pencil thickness or a little larger. Weak twisted stems produce equivalent plants; the better the wood the better the plants. Remove all the leaves, by bending them backward against the stem or by cutting off with secateurs. Do not pull or tug them particularly if they are a little dry, for they will strip, pulling out the eyes and tearing the bark. Using a sharp knife make a cut at about 45 degrees through an eye at the base of the cutting, slicing right through in one even stroke. The cutting is then trimmed to a length of 12.5 - 15 cm (5 - 6 in).

I believe you will find that those instructions which are very similar if not identical to rose propagation methods are for tropical hibiscus. Hardy hibiscus wood does not go dormant. Once frosted, the vegetative growth dies to the roots. I use two 2 liter clear soda bottles as mini greenhouses. I fill the bottom half with quick draining potting medium (nothing special, remember hibiscus were originally swamp plants, take cuttings in early morning, stick in the bottle, use the second half as the top of the greenhouse. When you observe roots through the bottle, remove the cap for a couple of weeks to harden it off, then remove the top half in shade and then move to full sun. You can coat the cuttings with rooting hormone. I've done it both ways and haven't seen a difference in success rates. Hibiscus are very easy to root.

http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/

My gorgeous double salmon and yellow hybrid has a seed pod. How and when should I harvest it and when should I try to plant it? I read a follow-up explaining the use of a litre bottle to germinate seeds by putting them in wet sand and sealing off the bottle until they sprout. Would that work on a hybrid?

utsuri - are you talking about a tropical hibiscus? if so, it's not a hybrid, but a cultivar of the species Hibiscus rosa-sinensis.
The seed pod will turn brown and crack open.
As long as the container (pot, etc) drains, you can use it. Sand would work as long as it's sterile. I've always used seed starting mix, which has a lot of peat in it.
I learned to grow mine from seed using this site.
Good luck!
Barb

Here is a link that might be useful: Tropical hibiscus from seed