Well, I've lived here for about 16 years. We also have iron and manganese in our water, but I use it in the garden. I bypass the softener for outside watering. The minerals won't hurt the plants. Right now is the season for the mildews and they're bad in my yard this year. Don't water at night when the moisture will sit on the leaves over night. I also use drip hoses on many of my shrubs.

As for the clay, add lots of compost, but if the plant is susceptable to root rot, bottom drainage is an issue. My lilac is looking peeked for that reason I'm sure. We also tend to have acid soil. Have you checked that out? I'd dig and amend now so the roots can establish before the ground freezes. What perennials and shrubs are you referring to?

I've got both iron and sulfur in my very hard water and haven't noticed that it hurts plants any. And I do overhead watering exclusively as it's easier. The only houseplant that gets distilled water is the pitcher plant which I was told can't take any minerals in the water!
Think the problem is soil and digging in mulch will help. But have to admit that I've switched to mixing the clay with more than half Moo-doo when planting anything.
Perennials need periodic replanting - every three to five years and sometimes oftener and when you dig up and replant, you should be adding compost at the same time. Over a period of a few years, you'll get all the beds amended that way. The only ones I leave in place year after year are peonies and gas plant.

HI, I've gardened in this valley 30 years. The first year I moved here I picked tomatoes at Thanksgiving. It hasn't happened again since. My point is, every year is different, but this growing season has been really, really weird. Too much water, then too much hot, then too much dry, then too little sun, now back to too much rain. All the other local gardeners (a couple of 70 yr olds and others) have agreed. So, you shouldn't been dissapointed
that things didn't do so well this year. It IS important to amend most soils but if you're patient and mulch (not with that red stuff they sell) but with things to improve the soil, (I use a pine bark soil conditioner which breaks down in a year or so and composted leaves and grass clippings) you won't need to dig everything up. Everyone looses some plants, and nurseries also sell some plants just not suited to all conditions. Eventually you find the ones that do well with your conditions.

Thanks for the advice! I am feeling more hopeful now! Sounds like I am wrong about the water - but will check out the acid issue and also how to bypass the water softener. I was basing my assumption mainly on the many hydranga I planted. All of them were turning brown quickly with black/brown leaves until I started watering from beneath. With brand new perennial beds, is it a good idea to cover with straw? I am a bit concerned about that since I don't want to attract voles back - (Initally had a really bad problem with voles pulling the tops of plants into their holes-had never even heard of them before!)Again - thanks for the advice!!!

Mulch in late November - that way the voles will have homes before you put the mulch down. I prefer bark nuggets to straw - looks better and doesn't get strewn around as much. Use the mini nuggets and don't pile mulche crowns of the plants.

Hello,
This is my first post. Does anyone know where my local plant nursery in Warwick is or even in Monroe/Harriman?
Thanks,
J