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native plum graft
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Posted by croatankid z8 NC (My Page) on Tue, Jul 5, 05 at 23:31
| i want to improve wildlife feed. we have a lot of native plum trees but they bear small fruits with large seeds. i want to use the native plum root stock and graft a bigger fruit producer onto it. what do you suggest? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: native plum graft
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I believe Luther Burbank crossed all his plums with the wild "beach plums " about a hundred years ago . they can also be crossed with :apriocots, almonds,peaches, nectarines
other plums,prunes, the "sand cherry" (I'm told really a plum). good luck! |
RE: native plum graft
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| CHECK "GURNEY'S" AND "STARKS" FOR GIANT VARIETIES . Did you ever think that you may be training , or encouraging wild birds to raid domestic crops and become a pest? Just a thought . |
RE: native plum graft
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| Many domestic plums are short-lived in the East due to bacterial disease. There have been some special varieties bred with native plums for disease resistance at the University of Auburn, in Georgia, in Florida and elsewhere. You might look into now long these trees typically survive in your area. Many domestic plums will readily graft onto wild plum stock if you want to try this. But for wildlife, an abundance of native plums may provide more food than a smaller number of larger commercial varieties. Check the Fruit and Orchards forum for more ideas. |
RE: native plum graft
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You probably have Chickasaw plum(P.angustifolia) or American plum(P.americana). Both can serve reasonably well as rootstocks for many domestic plum varieties - European and Japanese hybrids. But, both these native species tend to be suckering types, so yes, you'd get larger fruits on the one stem that you grafted, but it would soon be surrounded by a thicket of suckers from the native rootstock.
I've finally all but given up trying to grow named-variety plums, and just grow the native Chickasaw types. Yes, they're small, but they are flavorful, and above all else, I can count on them bearing a bountiful crop almost every year, whereas the Japanese hybrids always break dormancy too early and get nuked, and the Europeans never bloom(I'm still waiting for my Green Gage to flower, and it's been in the ground for 12 years!). |
RE: native plum graft
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| Hi, Does anyone know the answer to these questions? I would like to, if possible, make two very unusual fruit-cocktail trees of fruiting trees in the Rose family. I'd like to mix: One Tree (Crataegus-Malus-Sorbus-Amelanchier-Mespilus-Pyrus Tree)
Hawthorn (if the root-stock, C. crus-galli)
Juneberry (if the root-stock, A. canadensis)
Medlar
Asian Pear
Crab-Apple (one of the natives)
American Mountain-Ash (Sorbus americana) If so, which one of these should be the root-stock? A second Tree (Native Plum Multi-Graft):
American Plum
Chickasaw Plum
Beach Plum
Dunbar's Plum (P. americana x P. maritima)
Wild Goose Plum
Canadian Wild Plum Can this be done (either of these two)? Also, I'd like to know if you think that if I planted to paw paw trees of contrasting cultivars a mere 8" away apart from eachother, if in time, the trunks of both would expand until they inosculated to form one tree sporting limbs of each cultivar on opposite ends. I only have space to allow a single paw paw (18') to develop into a full, unpruned tree of maximum size-potential. Or maybe I can plant them 2' apart and still get a natural, dual multi-trunk specimen? Thanks,
Steve |
RE: native plum graft
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| Steve, On an old hawthorn tree here in the PNW, I have all those items grafted: Crataegus, Malus, Sorbus, Amelanchier, Mespilus, and Pyrus. Several cultivars of each, as many as I can get my hands on! Plus aronia, Shipova pear, several intergeneric hybrids, and cotoneaster. Haven't tried quince on it yet. I call it my Frankenstein-tree. |
RE: native plum graft
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| If you graft onto a beach plum stock your plant will never grow taller than a beach plum . So choose a rootstock that grows a tree the size you want . |
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