The picture is not quite clear but it is a newly planted shrub. When new shrubs are introduced to the outside environment, they will suffer a little on the first year. Because it is a relatively speaking new shrub, the stems cannot hold the weight of the blooms. I suggest you prune off the blooms and use some chicken wire as you would a belt around your stomach. Make the chicken wire prop up the stems. Use gladiolus stakes to help individual problem stems if you want. In future years, the stems will be stronger and will handle the weight of the blooms (although there are some varieties out there like Annabelle which just have this issue a lot).

Do not use overhead watering with hydrangeas because this makes the blooms weigh more than normal and makes the leaves likely to develop fungal infections like powdery mildew. In the case of shrubs that are watered daily, it is best to water (ONLY THE SOIL/MULCH) deeply and less often since lots of water daily can result in root rot... especially if the soil does not drain well and the soil stays wet for too long of a period.

Try applying about 1 gallon of water anytime that a finger inserted into the soil to a depth of 4" feels dry or almost dry. For two or three weeks, check daily the soil moisture early in the mornings in this way. And every time that you water, also write a note in a wall calendar indicating that you watered on that day. After 2-3 weeks, review the information that you wrote in the calendar and determine how often, on average, you had to water: every three days, every four days, etc. Then set your sprinkler system or drip irrigation to deliver 1 gallon of water on that same frequency (every three days/etc). If the temperatures change by 10-15 degrees and stay there, use the finger method daily again to see if you need to tweak things. As the summer progresses, the plant will need more water but as Fall arrives, you should water less. If the plant has gone dormant and dropped all leaves, consider watering about once a week or once every two weeks if the Fall/winter are dry; stop watering once the ground freezes.

Maintain the mulch that you have to a depth of 3-4" in order to protect the roots from the worst of your winters. And to make the soil stay moist for longer periods of time.

If your shrub came with those round fertilizer pellets in the potting mix, do not fertilize until next year. The ideal time to fertilize in your area is once a year, around June, by adding 1/2 a cup or 1 cup of compost, composted manure, cottonseed meal or you can make one application of a general purpose slow-release chemical fertilizer like Osmocote (10-10-10).

If you notice that the leaves in direct contact with the sun are getting scorched while the other leaves remain unaffected, the plant is getting too much sun and needs to be transplanted to a location where it gets more shade in the afternoon. However, since you live so far up north, I doubt this will be a problem since the sun there is not as strong as it is here during the summer months.

Does that help you, jeffgr1973.

Looks like a hydrangea arborescens type to me, Jeff. Most of these look like this at this time of year, especially young ones. The blooms are nearly spent and the stems on these usually bend quite a bit, so stem droop is not really an issue.

What you're really looking for is the leaves themselves not to wilt or droop down too far. Arborescens leaves should only droop down at an angle of about 45 degrees max with respect to the stem. Any more than that and I would consider watering more often. Dry or crisp leaves would also be another sign of illness, although these particular hydrangeas have known to have entire stems (with accompanying stems and leaves) die unexpectedly, while the rest of the plant remains healthy.