You may dry them, but they should be cut off of the shrub in a 'red stage' meaning outer, sterile petals should be already semi-dry and show red undersides.

Try glycerin. Put glycerin in a vase and put the lacecap blooms in the water. They don't get dry and stiff but are still soft and pliable. I have tried lacecap but I'll bet the dropping garbage problem will be solved. You can cut them at any stage after the blooms are open.

Thanks for your replies.

Tsmith2579: do you mean mixing glycerin with the water? If so, I've never dealt with it--does glycerin come in liquid form, or crystals or what? Something you buy in the drugstore or crafts store?

What proportion of glycerin to water? I like the sound of this method as it apparently doesn't require waiting till Fall like ego's method does (and like I've read in other places).

Thanks,
Karen

Thanks for your replies.

Tsmith2579: do you mean mixing glycerin with the water? If so, I've never dealt with it--does glycerin come in liquid form, or crystals or what? Something you buy in the drugstore or crafts store?

What proportion of glycerin to water? I like the sound of this method as it apparently doesn't require waiting till Fall like ego's method does (and like I've read in other places).

Thanks,
Karen

I have a 'Nachtigall' in a container meaning that I can manipulate its light exposure (and its pH). Being able to give a plant enough shade is essential for getting successful dried blooms on the plant. I usually take them off before they go too green (maybe late August). Her blooms hold color extremely well and I have several 1yr+ blooms with strong blue coloration underneath, greenish-blue above. Beautiful.