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crzybusy

Help me- Hydrangeas do not like me!

crzybusy
17 years ago

I've tried planting hydrangeas twice... once at my old house and once last year. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. They don't grow the first year (which I think is normal) but then they die the next year or stay the same. A few little green leaves come back but they are always close to the ground and just never grow. I didn't even get blooms this summer. My sister and my mom have had great luck and their hydrangeas seem to take off the same year that they plant them and then every year get bigger. What am I doing wrong? I love hydrangeas- but I don't think they love me.

Comments (7)

  • Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana
    17 years ago

    Crazy,

    While I'm not sure what your problem might be, I'll tell you I am experiencing the exact same thing. Some were planted last fall, and some 2 years ago.

    My guess for mine is that they just don't like where they are located. Maybe not enough AM light, too dry (I don't water/baby things much, but may need to start), and in some cases I suspect maybe air pockets from when they were planted, or that maybe rodents have tunneled under them.

    I'm going to move mine, or replant them, even if it is just a few feet away as 2 of them 'may' be too close to a tree.

    I've usually found that when a plant is unhappy, that moving it, will increase the likelihood of it thriving.

    Another thing is I don't/haven't fertilized, which I'm sure doesn't help matters.

    Sue...

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    17 years ago

    Hydrangeas are not all that difficult to grow or fussy about location, although excessive sunlight for some can cause a lot of wilting in summer. Generally, if you follow basic planting guidelines established for pretty much any type of plant, you should be fine. There are always exceptions - some plants are just not very vigorous or have sustained too much damage during the grower/transport/nursery process or have been neglected by new owners before planting.

    1) Hydrangeas prefer an organically rich, well draining yet moisture retentive soil. Competition from too many tree roots, heavy clay soils, too light or sandy soils or poor drainage will slow or even prevent establishment.

    2) Plant rootball slightly higher than it was in the pot or container. Many times gardeners err on the side of planting too deeply. With only a very few exceptions, this is a practice to be avoided.

    3) Water plant frequently and deeply during its period of establishment. Establishment - development of a strong root system beyond the confines of the original planting hole - generally takes two or more growing seasons for most shrubs. And water smartly - less frequent but deep watering, so that the water percolates well down into the soil, is far more helpful than a daily tickling with a sprinkler or watering wand. If in a hot summer climate or if located in much sun, more frequent watering even after establishment may be necessary.

    4) Mulching will help to maintain soil moisture and reduce evaporation during dry periods and an organic mulch (pine straw, leaves, bark, compost) will continue to improve soil conditions and add nutrients.

    5) Fertilizing is never a requirement unless the plant indicates an obvious nutrient deficiency. Good soils will typcially provide all the nutrients necessary for healthy growth and continue to do so if regularly mulched. Hydrangeas will tolerate a pretty broad range of soil pH, so unless your soils are heavily skewed to one side or the other, pH really only comes into play if you are trying to adjust the flower color of macrophyllas.

    6) Understand the hardiness of the hydrangeas you are attempting to grow and take steps to provide winter protection - if necessary - for your climate. Generally not an issue for climate zones 7 and above.

    7) Bone up on pruning techniques - different types of hydrangeas are pruned differently. Again, pruning is not a requirement for hydrangeas but can be used judiciously to control size or legginess or to remove winter dieback.

    Following these basic steps should greatly increase your success. The most important considerations are soil and watering - good soil conditions and correct watering - even in winter if necessary - should be of primary concern.

  • crzybusy
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thank you so much for all the info! That helps me alot!
    J

  • Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana
    17 years ago

    Gardengal,

    Thanks so much...I was just assuming that about everything benefited from fertilizing.

    I've clipped your wonderful post.

    Sue

  • Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana
    17 years ago

    Gardengal,

    I forgot to add that I thought it might be nice to have your post added to the FAQ...since there is only one FAQ and it covers color.

    Would you or anyone else mind if I suggested to GW to add it to the FAQ? What would be a good title?

    Possibly, Hydrangeas-Basic Care

  • Jen26
    17 years ago

    Check out the Soil, Compost and Mulch forum. It's a great resource for those trying to improve their soil. I think good soil is key.

  • rchlyblsd
    16 years ago

    I just planted 3 Hydrangeas (an Endless Summer, a Blushing Bride, and a Lady in Red). The Endless Summer & the Blushing Bride have both withered and turned brown. It's only been about 3 weeks since I planted them. We do have clay soil, but didn't plant very deep (clay is hard to deal with) and they have pine straw for mulch. All are on the west side of my home (front door faces north). They get morning/early afternoon shade and late afternoon/evening sun. We have underground sprinklers, so they are watered every Sun/Tues/Thur/Sat for about 15 mins each day in the early morning. The Lady in Red seems to be fairing a little better, but I'm worried it too will wither. HELP ME?? I want to save all 3 if somehow possible.