Very good summation, Pam and it deserves to be posted in FAQ section of this forum.

Indeed, gardengal148 (Pam is it?) a great info - now I can have a reference point on growth rate in relation to age of plant, you are in Z8 though - 'wonder how she would do in the Z5 midwest?

Before we had the wall redone, it used to be 2-tiered and had assort. Seedums and Columbines on the lower tier bed but the Hydrangea bug bit me and decided to prepare for the Anomala Petiolaris. According to the 10yr history of yours, I will be 80y/o by the time she covers my wall - if I insist on following my heart. It looks like I may have to think of something else to prettify my wall - I'm still avoiding the thought of Ivy - Vinca Minor which covers another patch I have does not climb & Sweet Autumn Clem. (a vigorous grower) will need a trellis - my luck huh!

Thanks again Pam for sharing your 10 experience with HAP!

Ditas

Hi again - I was just beginning to concede foregoing my desire to own an A Petiolaris when I had a chance to run and pick my earned Daffodil bulbs (for all the plant purchases I did this year) from a local nursery - I inquired about ideas for my bare wall ... guess what, a 5gal HAP was 50% off - she had 2 thick branches (growing N & S) that are cinnamon colored and slightly exfoliating ... tons of secondary branches with already hairy rootlets (much like my Baltic Ivy) ready to latch onto anything she gets close to. The nursery manager guesses her age to be a 3-4y/o gal. So this very disheveled looking shrub with shiny dark green leaves came home with me! I guess my 4 Rose of Sharon will have to be moved a little more, away from the wall ... I do have a bit of time thank heavens though I hope it doesn 't take 10 years as you suggest it might , Gardengal148.

Hands down! one of my very favorites. So easy, so hardy, and so trying to one's patience. 2-3 years wait for a few piddly flowers is the norm. While waiting, balm yourself with the knowledge that your vine is MAKING ROOTS, all the "work" is happening underground... . Rent "Little Shop of Horrors"... ;)

I was so excited to see a few flowers, finally! The next year it took right off and has kept right on going ever since. Mine is trained on a side of some fencing and is now beginning to move over the arbor I provided for it a few years ago.

There are two in my town that are breathtaking. One is on the side of a barn, the main trunk is easily 6" caliber. The other is trained along a loggia on a magnificent seaside home. I'm not kidding when I say it extends fully 50-60'. In flower it is magnificent. In the stark winter months it is every bit as arresting. It is the winter interest of the lovely bark that is my favorite characteristic of this plant (lots of time with no leaves in Maine).

You "scored"! I amended the soil when I planted mine in '93-4 and have done NOTHING since except prune in mid-March, or thereabouts. "Set it and forget it"!

{{gwi:1019246}}

WOW Chelone how beautiful!!! I guess I did score big time, I'll be 70 next year and have no intentions of moving anywhere, unless I end up in a nursing home before I get to enjoy her beauty ... you planted in '93 0r 94?

How much thickness room do I allow for her - my problem is, I planted 4 White & Lavender Chiffon, ROS in a row last May, with the intention of hiding my not so pretty wall - Now I guess I'll have to move them, just when they seem to be at home where they are (I was told it will take many years for them to reach their 6-8' hgt & wdth. I cheated quite a bit and set them closer to the wall than recommended, so now a bit of headache! Sometimes, (oftener for me) the heart doesn't work with the brain as far as love affair w/ plants are concerned.

How much sun does yours get (also I think ME has a much better climate conditions than ours) Dirr reassures that she'll serve well even in full sun, where my gal will have to be housed.

Many thanks for responding and posting your gal - she deserves the beautiful and roomy arbor you provided her!

Ditas, in a full sun it probably will not grow faster, but definitely will bloom at the younger age.

Many thanks Ego45 - that makes me feel better, I'm setting her right in the center of the 36ft span of the wall and gently tuck her numerous limbs, already fuzzy with rootlets, in the cevices between the stacked rocks, both directios where the 2 larger limbs seemed to be already guided to. I think I may have to clip some younger stems as she is quite disheveled looking - hope it would be OK?

I'll inquire about moving my 4 (Rose of Sharon) Chiffons later as they do look good just 3ft away from the wall while waiting for A Petiolaris to take hold.

I do appreciate very much all the info I gather from all you wonderful Hy'dra aficionados!

The plant in the picture was a one gallon plant and it was originally planted next to the house where it sulked for a year/two. I'm SO glad I relocated it.

It was planted about 10" away from the fence and I remember angling it back toward the fencing panel, installing some screw eyes and stout wire (with turnbuckles) to keep the branches from flopping away from the fence while the rootlets began adhering themselves. I remember digging a hole that was about 18" across and maybe 12-15" deep to receive it. I amended the bottom of the hole and watered it for day two before planting. I set the plant a bit higher than the surrounding ground, figuring it would "settle some". I have done NOTHING to it with respect to fertilizing, though I did water it deeply once/twice a few years ago when we had no appreciable rain for nearly 3 months. It never blinked; its close neighbors are a red Oak, a Magnolia stellata and lots of perennials.

I prune it in mid/late March and some years I'm ruthless, others I simply clip off last year's spent blooms. Depends on which way I want to train it. At present, the main trunk is about 3" caliper and there are 3 main stems from that, all in the 1-1 1/2" caliber range. From those branches there are many other side shoots (the result of hard pruning early on in training) and no shortage of springtime flowers for us (usually mid-June).

This was taken in 2000 (just got my camera) and shows the progress then. I had pruned hard for shape for some years at this point:

{{gwi:1019248}}

This shows the mid/late March, after clipping of skeletonized remains of last season's blooms. You can clearly see the shape of the trunk, stems, sideshoots that will produce blooms. Taken in 2004/5.

{{gwi:1019249}}

I know this was taken the same year as the shot above. Probably about mid-April. Note also the presence of some twine and some bamboo training rods to entice it up to the arbor. It's there now, and I will begin pruning heavily again to encourage vertical growth, though I may have to sacrifice some blooms to achieve the long range goal.

{{gwi:160149}}

Chelone, great plant, excellent pictures and perfect tutorial example.
In respect to cl. hydrangeas, I think this thread should be refered as often as Hayseed's 'Overwintering' thread.
Thank you.

What a nice thing to say!

I absolutely love this plant and believe in its worthiness in the landscape. But I also want people to understand that it will "test" your patience and that it must be sited as carefully as one would site any shrub/tree of importance. This isn't a plant you can relocate easily on a whim, with no "consequences".

One of the things I like so much about CH is its versatility. You can allow it to ramble over a stonewall, or train it up the trunk of a large tree. You can manipulate its growth to cover a wall. It will do any of those things easily and willingly, but as with any long term investment it's time and "compounding" that yields the payoff. Anomala petiolaris doesn't "do" immediate gratification.

I can't say enough about this wonderful, old-fashioned plant. It nearly broke my hear to see a lovely specimen yanked out by a bulldozer a few months ago. I suspect the new owners of the property had no idea what a treasure they'd just acquired.

More WOWs Chelone!!! I am so greatful for your time and generosity in sharing with us all your experience & dedication not to mention great tutorial pics ... I can see how it is paying off! Indeed I agree with Ego45 a 'Cl. Hydrangea' thread started here would be just great to learn on!

I have set my 5gal pot in the center of the 36' long wall and now won't be too afraid to get her closer than the 2ft the nursery recommended - after all the idea is to get her to plaster & crawl, right?

I am now thinking ahead on where to relocate 2 of the 'White Chiffon ROSharon' to open up the center of the wall - I'll have a bit of time yet.

I have taken many photos but don't know how to post - it would be fun to show you my beautiful disheveled 'A.Petiolaris' at her pot-stage sitting by the wall.

Again, many thanks!

You might want to set your plant further than the 10" I allowed. Remember! you have a larger root ball than I did. I don't know how long the branches of your CH are, but if they are long enough to reach the wall setting the root ball 18-24" from the wall, by all means do so!

I cannot stress enough that this plant gets really BIG. A mature plant can have a root ball that will rival small trees. It's important that you consider that when you plant.

Incline the plant toward the wall when you plant it. It will look "wierd", but don't worry about it... consider that you're simply giving your vine "a shove in the right direction". You might want to use stakes to help guide the branches toward the wall. Jam them into the ground and tilt them toward the wall. Use cut lenths of nylon stockings to tie the branches to the stakes (tie them loosely, nylons virtually disappear next to the CH bark!).

Once you've planted it, do nothing until other early plants in your area begin to show "signs of life", then you may begin to snip, clip, train the vine. Right now, though... just get it into the ground and begin "aiming" the branches toward the wall.

But don't be afraid to set the root ball well away from wall...I think the 24" suggestion is a good one. Remember, my plant is watered from all sides, your's won't be because the wall will inhibit water distribution.

Thanks for the kind words.

I can't thank you enough for everything I'm learning, Celone. I'm setting her in the ground with confidence ASAP. Watering from the top of the wall won't be a problem since they lined the entire length of the wall with landescaping fabric and river rocks to hold back the top tier.

With all you have shared I don't see how I can fail - & PATIENCE, that I have - my 16y/o Nikko gave me a great deal of training with just 1-2 blooms, when mood strikes her (dinnerplate size though). With Hayseed's or Maria's overwintering methods, I may see more next year!

I'm so glad I found this place - many thanks!

Wow...have been following the responses and learning a lot about CH here. I had no idea it would eventually grow to be such a beauty. All of my questions have been answered with the exception of one. I now know without a doubt she needs to be moved as she's climbing on about a 6 foot wall and only about a 1 foot area to spread horizontally which will not be nearly enough area. I have what I think is an ideal location for her which is an 8 ft section of fence, again about 6 ft tall, lots of light and dappled shade. I guess my main question is when to do the "deed". Should I wait till spring now, we've already had frost warnings here. I'm thinking I will have to relocate her before she grows too big. Thanks, once again for this interesting and informative thread. Tracey, Northern Ontario.

I think I would go ahead and move it now, personally. Fall is an excellent time to plant for the following season. And even though you're getting frost warnings the ground is still relatively warm and the plant will be able to form some new roots before settling in for dormancy.

In the spring, you'll be able to assess any winter kill, prune accordingly and begin the process of training it the way you want it to grow. I would keep it well watered and mulch it for the winter to prevent heaving.

You may want to secure the branches to the fence panel for awhile, just until the rootlets are able to latch on. I used screw eyes and stout wire with turnbuckles, but with two years they were no longer needed.

Let us know what you decide to do, OK?

Mission accomplished Chelone! - The sun finally showed up today after a wet almost cold few days it was a perfect day to tackle the tasks with the help of a young fellow I hired - he did most of the 'heavy lifting', so to speak - with the tangled mess that she was, I'm glad I had help. We opened up the area too by moving 2 of the Rose of Sharon bushes to sunny spots in the front yard.

I followed all your planting suggestions, tilted her towards the wall, amended the soil, mulched and watered, with root stimulant added, hammered 2 metal stakes on both sides of her. It was a bit of a job untangling the web she created with her numerous limbs (reminded me of Medussa's head from Greek mythology). I noted that when I took the 1x1x3ft post her main trunk was anchored to, it was about as thick as my pinkie finger and the 2 other limbs that went N & S were not much thinner and all three were slightly exfoliating. I didn't think she'd mind too much that a few branches broke off as we were setting her in the tilted position. I tucked some of them between the stacked blocks and threaded a few behind the 2 stakes so they'd figure where to head from there. She didn;t look too swift, sequestered behind the cut stocking ties, for now - as mentioned earlier, she is loaded with younger limbs with rootlets and also lots of light green bumps and new growth extensions too.

I guess aside from watering often and pruning come Spring, I'll just wait with patience.

Thanks again Celone, for your great coaching!

Has anyone ever seen one of these in profuse blooms in the midwest Mine has never done much here in Kansas. It is about 10 feet tall, but blooms little. People in the northeast and other climates seen to have better luck.

How much sun does it get?

Hey CH Fans: I just noticed this thread and thought I'd tell you about my experience and also ask for some opinions. I planted two - four feet apart - in 1990 on our two-story brick fireplace that goes even beyond the roof a ways. We're in NW 'burbs of Chicago - Zone 5a. It is now near the top and covers nearly all of the brick, and if it hadn't been for one helluva horrible windstorm a few years ago, we'd have not lost a huge hunk. After that, we used some metal 'clips' that cement to the brick and then a folded metal piece curls over a branch. The caliper at the bottom is six to eight inches - there are several trunks. I've never fertilized and never pruned. It starts to see the sun after noon (it's on the West side). It took three years to grow even two feet but then it took off in the fourth year and went nuts. My question is this: because I've never pruned, it's grown at least four feet 'out' (horizontal growth) for quite a ways up the wall. I feel it should be pruned but don't know how far back toward the brick to take it. Incidentally, it flowers like crazy and I need to also know if pruning destroys potential flowering; e.g. new wood or old for blooms? Thanks for listening and for any help!

Westy1941

Wow Westy 1941 - I'd love to see a photo of your CH, would you be able to post one?

Ditas

My experience is that the flowers appear on the "horizontal" branches. Any heavy pruning will likely reduce flowering because pruning will inevitably nip off the buds that will become flowers. But on a large vine, you will have many other buds that will flower... pruning will stimulate growth higher and therefore, more flowers higher up. I keep mine clipped to within 15-18" of the fence. If I can't walk by it (or shove the mower past it) it gets hacked off. I'm a "control" freak, I guess.

This is potenitally a HUGE plant. It's tremendously hardy and forgiving. I cut mine brutally in mid/late March. Once it attained decent size and began flowering it has never blinked at the atrocities I've committed with pruners. Don't allow yourself to be "cowed" by this vine. Experiment! make the vine "behave itself" and conform/adapt to what YOU require of it. It will "fall into line", and you shouldn't gnaw fingernails wondering about it's longterm success. Cut it to conform to your desires. Cut in in early spring. And don't "sweat it".

This vine will "sense" your fear, lol!

Ditas: I was afraid someone would ask me to post a pic! I'll try to get one in the next day or two - before things go downhill weatherwise. It's much prettier in the Summer when it's blooming, but you'll at least have a good idea of its size. I forgot to mention the damage Japanese Beetles did this year - they congregated mostly near the top of the vine and made 'lace' out of most of the leaves. It's so maddening, because it's not easy to spray when you have to drag the sprayer up the extension ladder and the poison blows back in your face or hits your head. This is the first year I've used something other than 'Safer' to control pests -- I hate those things too much to be environmentally concerned and only the poison kills them.

Chelone: Your info is invaluable and just as I suspected - that this vine is extremely tough. I haven't done anything to it in 16 years and it's been gorgeous. I will take your advice, however, and prune in March back to within a couple of feet from the brick (horizontal wood). Should have done this years ago. I have no problem losing blooms -
it's only a one-year sacrifice and only in certain places, I guess. I think I'll start fertilizing it too! I used 'Hollytone' on my Nikkos, Endless Summers, and others this summer and they went crazy with blooms. I wish I had been 'awake' many years ago - too busy working for corporate America and not nearly as happy as now!!!!

Thanks again,
Westy1941

The pictures of these climbing hydrangeas are beautiful! We are thinking of planting them along a fence along our driveway. I have a couple of questions.

First, will the plants grow so large that they will have branches or blooms hanging into the driveway?

Second, will the roots damage the driveway?

Lastly, there are about 25 to 30 feet of fencing we want to beautify. How many plants should we plan on planting to get decent coverage in a few years, assuming we start with the smaller plants and are patient?

Thanks for any advice!!!

"First, will the plants grow so large that they will have branches or blooms hanging into the driveway? "

Depends on how far is your driveway from the fence. If say 3-4', answer will be 'Yes', but you could either prune or redirect them with no harm done.

"Second, will the roots damage the driveway? "

No.

"Lastly, there are about 25 to 30 feet of fencing we want to beautify. How many plants should we plan on planting to get decent coverage in a few years, assuming we start with the smaller plants and are patient? "

Theoretically 1(one) plant planted in a middle and trained to the left and righ is enough.
However, if it would be me I'd rather buy 2 small plants (x) and plant them as this: I---x------x---I by spacing 1/4+1/2+1/4 along the lenght of the fence. By doing that you'll make your initial training years life more easier. Young 1G plants are not suppose to be expensive, something in a $10 range in my neck of the woods.
I don't know what type of fence you have, but it have to be very sturdy. By any means adult cl.hydrangea is a large and heavy plant.
Good luck.

I planted a climbing hydrangea today, and now I think it may be a mistake...

I received 3 of them for my birthday, they are only very small, the biggest/longest is only 10'long.

I put 2 in 12" pots, and put one in the ground.

I planted it in front of a side section of the house, the house is weatherboard on brick pillars, and has a brick wall all around the base. The plant is 2' from the wall as the bricks are set in a cement foundation, it sticks out almost 1' from the base of the brick wall.

I was hoping to cover this wall, but am now worried about damaging the timber weatherboards.

Is it possible to train this plant to just cover the brick work? The brick work is aprox 14 feet wide & 3-4 feet high?

Or should I remove it immediately & pot it up until I can build that pergola Im hoping to get done this summer?

frizz, sure it's possible to train hydrangea in horizontal pattern, but in your case you'll be facing perpetual (at least twice a year) pruning job for yourself in order not to let it grow up the timberboard.
For the time being untill you build a pergola it could be where it's, in ground is better than in a pot.

I would not suggest using this plant to grow against your house, especially if you have a wooden area and also if you have a brick wall. This plant can produce roots that will penetrate bricks. Besides brick walls have little slits to help with moisture exhaust. These plants will simply grow roots in those slits. Instead, create a nice trellis against a fence and train this plant to grow against it. Feel free to prune it back to keep it in check.

Checking in to report on my, now 2nd season C H ... s..l..o..w.. is no news as warned by Chelone, but couple it with a devastating 2-wk freeze in April following weeks of Indian-summer in Mar ... her young shiny budding leaves went into shock ... I did not think to protect <:->She bounced back as expected but I've lost a couple of weeks which measures in miles ... she is still quite pretty. Very slow indeed, reminds me of how long it took for my Baltic Ivy to cover beautifully another 36ft retaining wall, years ago (tho quite a pain keeping tendrils in check)!

Chelone - I think of you often when watering C H, but mostly because I have 2 beautiful clumps of 'Chelone' that never fails to please in late Summer!!!

Just curious ... how are you planning on training your C H to crawl and clamber over the beautiful (what looks like metal) pergola ... by ties, I suppose? Will C H not need to use rootlets for additional absorbtion of nutrients etc?

HELLO THERE; I JUST FOUND THIS THREAD, AND AM WONDERING HOW EVERYONE'S CLIMBING HYDRANGEAS ARE DOING? I WAS CONSIDERING PLANTING ONE IN A HUGE POT, AND TRAINING IT UP A WALL IN AN OUTDOOR SHOWER/GREENHOUSE. [BLOCK WALLS] I THOUGHT PERHAPS IT WOULD LIKE THE MOISTURE AND EXTRA PROTECTION FROM THE ELEMENTS, [THOUGH IT DOESN'T SOUND LIKE IT NEEDS A LOT OF PROTECTION IN ZONE 7.] WOULD THAT BE WISE, OR AM I GOING TO END UP WITH A MONSTER? THIS INFO HAS BEEN WONDERFULLY INSPIRING, AND I CAN'T WAIT TO GROW A CH!!ANY INFO/IDEAS WILL BE WELCOME; THANKS.

Your hydrangea will be as large as your letters are :-))

Hi Posyplanter -
I'm glad you found this thread, started in 2006! Between Chelone, Ego45 & Gardengal148, we newbies to CH, got a great crush course!

As Ego45 posted above: "Chelone, great plant, excellent pictures and perfect tutorial example."

Unfortunately, the photos, which were invaluable too, had been remove - I hope Chelone checks back in and posts them again - a few newbies, would benefit from them.

Mine, to my surprise & joy, is blooming right now - just mere 8 clusters, but a joy to look at, none-the-less ... didn't expect the rewards so soon! <:->The plant grew by perhaps 1-2' or so N, S & upwards - several limbs have riched the top of the ret'ng wall and will have to be guided to crawl N & S. I use landscaping staples, to hold the growing limbs to the directions I want them to go. Limbs trying to reach out front, I simply tuck in w/ other limbs that knew their directions. BTW the blooms have a subtle lovely fragrance ... a great bonus - 'can only imagine when blooms are plentiful!!!

Good luck!

Hello again, and thanks for responding! Ego45,- GREAT! DOES THIS MEAN THAT THOSE WHO HAVE DIFFICULTY READING SMALL PRINT WILL BE ABLE TO SEE IT? [Actually, it sounds like a wonderful problem to have...... maybe.]Ditas,- I believe the CH bug has got me now. If those things are fragrant I've got to grow one somewhere!!! Actually, I've been considering a pink blooming variety Schizophragma Hydrangeoides "Roseum" to be exact. Has anyone grown this, and if so, what is your evaluation of it? Does it get as monstrously huge as the more commonly grown variety? Is it difficult,ect.?Thanks y'all!

Size and culture wise Schizophragma hydrangeoides is absolutely identical to H.petiolaris.
It's a great plant, go for it!

I don't think you'll be sorry ... on the contrary ... !!!!! M. Dirr's ('Hydrangeas for American Gardens') book has photos of the different CHs, 1 in a shrub form ... if you didn't want her to climb ... just a thought!

I wonder if anyone here has one, fashioned as a shrub ... size?? I'd like to open a spot for it if she could be controlled as a mound! Hines has Kuga Variegated/"reddish petiole"!<:- any thoughts on this ego45>

Ditas,
I hardly could imagine how that could be done...unless...you put a small shed in a bed ...and let schizophragma cover it completely :-))
I'm dreaming as well :-))

Oh George, would you go ahead & get going, before it's too late for me! :-) ... I can almost see - by the way mine is fanning out ... if directed to crawl over one of those (now ever so popular) man- made-boulders huh? I'm getting so tempted, if only I know what size prime site to allow! How about Winter Glow ...evergreen that turns purple in Winter!?

Dirr sited Kew Gardens & Guelph U in Ont. with such shrub form H a. p. - have you had the chance to visit there?

Posyplanter - Thanks for bringing this thread back up & provoked ideas!!!

AN EVERGREEN CH?!! How lovely! How about growing one at the edge of a wooded area, maybe climbing a boulder or a tree? Pretty in winter when all else is frozen and bare..... Are any of these potentially invasive?

Hi Posyplanter -
I don't see why not ... a few aficionados have done it ... let her climb & clamber up a stately tree!

I wonder if anyone has Winter Glow CH? I just read it described in M Dirr's book.

I don't believe they are invasive like Ivy is, altho will grow to 60ft if given such a surface to crawl & climb - may have to prune to keep in control. It'll be several years before I'll be able to comment, first hand. You must have read Westy's post in this thread ... I wonder if we could have a few, with grown CH to post their photos?

Have you decided how you'll let yours grow - climb up a tree, a wall or a boulder (as a shrub)? I'd vote for a shrub form ... I assume you'll do some pruning & shaping, in time ... your idea of "edge of a wooded area" seems perfect ... I'd do it!!! :-)))

As for the shrub form of HP, I wanted a white bloomer to plant outside the dining room window. When the plant arrived, it was the HAP/hydrangea anomala petiolaris or the climbing variety. I was in shock to read the potential height was 50-80 feet! I opted to have hubby construct a sturdy arbor over my Blessed Virgin in the back yard, and let it do its thing there.

Later on, I found the plant I wanted accidentally, in of all places, Home Depot at Nashua NH. It was already in bloom with its panicles of fertile and sterile white blossoms. That one is in the ground where I envisioned it, and every morning I am pleased to note it never has wilted in the summer heat with a western exposure. This plant was also called HYDRANGEA PETIOLARIS, but is the shrub form. Even the leaves look different from the CH.

I am happy with both selections, however. I am about to order the book by Dirr, HYDRANGEAS IN AMERICAN GARDENS, so frequently referenced in this thread. That such lovely plants can thrive in the colder zones is encouraging to me. Being new to "Yankee" gardening, I was afraid my shrub selections would be more restrictive than I hoped.

Hi, just read through this thread and was wondering if any of the original posters were around. How are your CHs doing? I almost bought one 3 years ago, but we were going to sell our house and I didn't. Guess it would just be taking off now if I had. I am considering getting one this month.

I know this is an old thread but since it was recently resurrected, I'd like to clarify some possible misconceptions. The species Hydrangea anomala is a climbing form of hydrangea, as are all of its subspecies. There is not a "shrub form" per se - it and any of the subspecies can be grown as a shrubby groundcover simply by letting them cascade over themselves rather than training them up a support. Unless pruned, they too can reach a very impressively large size over time. And there is no species called Hydrangea petiolaris - it is correctly Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris.

caligal, rather than H. anomala, I'd suggest you consider one of the evergreen climbers, H. seemanii or integrifolia. These are not nearly as cold tolerant as the more common deciduous anomala, but they are much more suited to a warmer, SoCal climate and will offer a very similar flowering appearance. They also take some time to establish well before blooming.

gardengal, thank you, I guess I should have started a new thread.
Your response is very helpful though. I will check
both of those out.

Hello everyone, I'dlike to get some input/advice on climbing Hydrangea. I have two round columns in front of my house(the entrance)-north w/partial bright shade and late afternoon sun. I'd love to put these hydrangeas in so they can climb and grow around those columns. I want to landscape the front w/pink and purple blooms,green and black foliage. Do you think the climbing hydrangea would grow around the cement columns? Any secrets on how to make these plants happy? Or what else would you recomend?
Live in Florida. Thanks!!!

I doubt one of the Asian species of climbing hydrangea would be very happy in Florida but I don't know for sure :-) Heat and humidity may not be to its liking. I'd consider a hydrangea relative, Decumaria barbara, that is native to the southeast as a possible substitute. Appreciates a moist environment, much more tolerant of the heat and humidity and fragrant to boot. Flowers are all fertile, so not quite as showy.

You will still need to provide some sort of help/support initially to get this vine to gow up a concrete column

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1019242}}

G'morning g..g..148 - Beautiful! How long do her blossoms last?

What you surmised about H.a petiolaris, seems to make sense even here in my zone. I've been growing my Petiolaris since '06 (realizing her slow habit) ... a very wet/cool Spring of '08 boosted her growth & even surprised me with beautiful, tho short lived, blossoms! This season started very wet & once more, gave her a great running start, however the last 2 wks of June was oppressively steamy (upper 90s w/ mid100s heat index) ... needless to say, much of Petiolaris' young, beautifully growing, heart-shaped, foliage got steam-cooked, no blossoms either ... what's more, might have stunted her initial growth spurts! Â:(

I'm still cleaning up her scorched foliage. She is recovering well, with our entire July, of beautifully sunny & unseasonably, cooler than normal temps ... (tho very dry. easily remedied) ... 'hope she picks up in the growth dept, soon, again!!! Â;) ... still has a long way to cover our 40' retaining wall.

Thanks for your thoughts on H.a.petiolaris - I value this thread, refer to it & recommend it, as a great tutorial ... too bad Chelone's photos have been deleted - they were worth thousands of words!!!

Have a great day!

I am so glad I found this thread. I am a newbie (sorta) & just ordered my first CH today though I have wanted one for years! I have not decided where I am going to plant this when it arrives but I now have a better idea & will be going in to this with a much better idea of what I am doing, thanks to you all. :) I hope the CHs are still growing beautifully!

Just received 3 CH. I am zone 5. Should I plant now or repot and baby in cold garage over the winter? They are only about 5 inches tall . TYIA.

This is a great forum.
I planted a hydrangea seemanii three years ago. It is growing well this year, at last, but the old leaves are brown at the edges. Is this frost damage or a disease? And if the latter, how did I treat it, preferably without chemicals please? Thank you very much for your advice

That looks more like cold damage than anything else. Not sure where you are located but broadleaf evergreens can be very susceptible to severe swings in winter temperatures and this vine is really only marginally hardy in zone 8. New growth looks like it is in coming in well, though.

For the future, it is best to post specific questions like this in a new thread rather than piggy-backing onto an old one. You will get more and better responses that way :-))

Thank you very much gardengal.
I live in Bristol, in the Southwest of England. The winters can be very cold, although we had very little frost and no snow at all this year. In fact, many plants like begonias and geraniums have survived the winter.

My plant has not done well until this year, but I believe this is normal for hydrangeas- they don't get established for a while. It has produced only three flowers so far, but there is a lot of new growth this year and, as you say, the new leaves look healthy enough. So, I do hope you are right and this is cold damage.

Thank you again and all the best