I use Perfect Starts. They are little sponges that you start the seed in. Then place the sponge in your net cups surrounded by the clay pebbles.

They have two different sizes #2 and #4. I use #2 for my lettuce.

Here is a link that might be useful: Perfect Starts

What are you starting them in?
I use pea gravel and marbles not hydroton, but I just stick the bare root into the medium and gently position extra around it.
Another thought: You should post bigger images of your system on the blog.

thanks for the advice guys. i'm not using net pots so i'll just carefully use the hydroton as if it were very large soil!

grizz, i finally took the time to figure out how to post larger pictures, so thanks for the advice! more to come.

cheers
j

actually, one more question...

grizz, i've seen you post about pump timing on a couple other posts so i thought i'd pick your brain if you don't mind.

i'm gonna start with either a 16 or 18 hour photoperiod, and my plan was to run the pump 15 min on/15 min off for the length of the photoperiod. do you think that'll be too wet? (i timed the containers empty; they take about 4:30 to fill and 3:30 to empty, which i expect will be notably shorter when they're filled with growing medium.)

also, should the pump be operating when the lights are off? i'd read somewhere that the person didn't feed at all at night, but 6-8 hours with no solution seems to me like it'd be a little too dry... whaddyathink?

thanks!

I'm running a new experimental EnF now at 17 seconds on every 4 hours and the soil seem plenty moist. I am using perlite as my medium though. I would probably start with 15 minutes every hour to 1.1/2 hours during the light cycle. during the dark cycle I generally only water one time at the midway mark.

thanks grizzman! i'm not going to be planting for a few more weeks so i'll let you know how things go.

all the best!
j

Just a quick "been there - done that" suggestion: If you're using Hydroton, make sure the "root ball" on the plants you're transplanting is well established.

The reason is, there is a lot of air space between the little clay balls and the possibility of the roots "air pruning" is a real concern. Of course, you could time the pump to come one each hour and just keep things really wet for the first 20 days or so.

Whatever you end up doing, remember to keep the roots wet and don't let them dry out even once!

thanks for the advice freemangreens! i was planning on 15 on-15 off for the entire photoperiod, but that's probably too much. thanks for the tip on transplanting too; i'm gonna wait until they're really ready for sure.

thanks again!

j

Here is a link that might be useful: blog!

just updating... so far my seedlings are on the way while i continue to tweak and finish the system... posted on my blog; just thought i'd share!

j

Here is a link that might be useful: blog!

I see by your blog you are growing tomatoes. I know a neat little trick called "super-cropping". You might be able to search it out here on the 4m. If you can't find it, email me and I'll fill you in.

Super-cropping is done when the plants are about the size shown in your pictures. By the way, I've found that switching seedlings to the cloner for a week makes a HUGE difference in the stalk growth as well.

:O)

wow freemangreens, what a cool technique! i read your post at about 1am last night, and then looked at hautions's thread about it. i started pinching away this morning. i chose two seedlings that were healthy, but not my healthiest just in case. they've drooped over and i can't wait til tomorrow morning to see how it went!

thanks for the cool tip! do you think this is just for tomatoes? or would other plants respond?

cheers
j

I think it's basically for plants that need a strong stalk to support accessory fruit, like tomatoes. All I grow is tomatoes and strawberries (I have a thing for red) and it works great for the tomatoes.

I grow "indeterminates" and cut the tops and sides out. Depending on the cultivar, I sometimes use what is known as the "single-truss" method. When I do this, the stalk must be extra strong as the fruiting is clustered and is high above the growing surface.

Strawberries, on the other hand, don't need such strong stems. Each fruit is supported by one single stem; one fruiting body per stem, so super-cropping makes no sense in that case.

You might also want to look into boosting your silica. Increased silica significantly improves stem strength and promotes shorter internode lengths.

A moderate to strong airflow from a fan also helps keep a plant short by convincing it that stronger, shorter stems are important in the high wind conditions it lives in.

I usually use Barricade (silica) from Advanced Nutrients as a pH up. It works just as well for raising pH, and it gives the plants more silica in the process. Saves me a bottle on the shelf, too.

It's supposed to make plants more resistant to bugs too. I guess when the cells are more reinforced with silica it's harder for bugs to eat them or something. I haven't had trouble with bugs, so maybe it works.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to Barricade

hi guys, back again!

thanks for the advice! i updated my blog, and the first month in the system has been quite successful by and large. hope you enjoy!

all this spring air is starting to get to me... the bug is biting!

cheers
j

Here is a link that might be useful: blog!