I don't really see a problem with using the same nutrient solution for both tomatoes and strawberry's. Both like the same pH range 5.5-6.5, and both are continuously fruiting plants. So unless you planed to use a nutrient solution specific to each type of plant, I don't see a reason that you couldn't use the same reservoir for both.

Most home gardeners (like me) don't use specifically formulated nutrients for each crop they grow. I'm not sure what nutrients you are using for the strawberry's, but assuming they are suited for strawberry's (a continuously fruiting plant), they should be fine for tomatoes (a continuously fruiting plant).

But assuming that you are using two different systems to grow the two different types plants in, one being an aeroponics, and the other being a flood and drain, and only being linked by the nutrient solution in the reservoir, there are still a couple of considerations to keep in mind.

One is the size (gallons) of the reservoir. You will need to increase the amount of nutrient solution in the reservoir to accommodate the added water and nutrient uptake by the tomato plants. You should add a minimum of 2 1/2 gallons of nutrient solution for each tomato plant planed. Strawberry plants are much smaller plants and it's recommended to have a minimum of 1/2 gallon of nutrient solution for each plant. Those are minimums and more is better (at least when the plants reach maturity). But more nutrient solution than the minimum is better, the less fluctuation of the balance of nutrients in the solution, as well a less chance of pH fluctuations as well (I call it buffer water).

The other thing to keep in mind is that plant diseases, microorganisms, pathogens etc. are easily spread from plant to plant by the nutrient solution. If your strawberry plants wind up with a diseases, it will easily spread to your tomato plants, and vice versa.

Hmm.. A few things jump out at me.

1. What is the water temp of your res? I'm not sure why your running a chiller. Most places in the US are pretty cold right now, so a chiller shouldn't be needed. (many exceptions to this.)

2. Perfectly fine to use the water from the strawberries to flood the tomatoes. BUT you might run into some problems.
You will most likely need to change or top off your reservoir more frequently. Tomatoes are considered heavy feeders so they will consume NPK at different rates then strawberries. The NPK levels might create an imbalance for either plants.
Depending on how many plants you have, your reservoir might be too small. A really large reservoir can act as a buffer. It helps stabilize PH, and TDS levels. I have noticed people with really minimal reservoirs are constantly battling PH drift and TDS levels being depleted quickly.

Thanks, all good to know.
We are in Central Texas and have had heavy sunshine last week. We built the Green House in January and set strawberry roots in the first of February.
The nutrient temperature soared to 80+ during day. That is why we want to put tomatoes on same reservoir as the chiller was very costly.
Plan now is to reduce the number of tomato plants and put them in the GH instead of outside and share chilled nutrients.
For a laid back hobby there is always something to do, we got the reservoir insulated Y-day and need to fit and secure shade cloth to GH next. Those vents are going to be a challenge. How to get up there to them without caving the GH in.
I cut the blooms off the plants like the nursery said to do , but think it was a mistake. They are talking about plants in the ground and the plants are responding well and not putting on as much root as we are accustomed to in other plants. We are on a 1 min. on and 5 min. off because we can not find any information on this matter but would like to raise the off time. We would just let the berrys go to fruit at their own speed.
Maybe next year we can just take a good book to the GH. The sounds and feel of it are very relaxing.
Any help is appreciated.
"Doing 10 with no Chance of Parole"

Here is a link that might be useful: pic's

So no one knows about time cycles for aeroponic, OK does anyone know where we could find this information or a forum we could go to?
"Doing 10 with no Chance of Parole"

Here is a link that might be useful:

People use all different time cycles for aeroponics. Everything from just a half second on, to 30+ minutes on. And everywhere from as little as 30-60 "seconds off," to 30-60 "minutes off." It really comes down to what works best for you, and in your particular system design setup, as well as with what settings your timer has. The main thing is just don't let the roots get to dry, that's really the only thing to watch out for.

Thanks, we didn't know how to figure timer. The timer we have on the strawberries is programmable but have never bought a grower that came with instructions except the Water Farms. The clone timer is set for 1 Min. on and 4 min. off and we read one of the dope growers talk about 5 off & 1 on so we went with that.
So, as long as the roots are wet they are able to uptake nutrients they need. Very good to know and it looks like we have some experimenting to do.
Thanks Lots
"Doing 10 with no Chance of Parole"

Here is a link that might be useful:

I have an aeroponics system, and I was cycling the pump on and off. I tried different durations of on and off and didn't see any improvement in the plants as opposed to constantly on. I decided to go back to always on after 2 pumps went out on me. seems they don't like to be turned off and on so much. the first pump lasted 2 months. the second pump lasted 6 months. at $70 per pump it's more cost effective to pay for the electricity to run the pumps constantly than to keep replacing pumps.

So you need to have an extra pump on hand at all times! Have you had better luck with the full time on with pumps or have you not had them full time long enough to be sure. Makes sense that they would go out quicker with stop-start.
On the other hand with full on we should be able to reduce the size of the pump as long as it is big enough to deliver nuts to all plants. At the difference in cost of pumps we could put two small pumps in series as a safety. Just reach in and touch to see if both are running. Or put a kill switch on each to test.
Mr. kleeem you got me re-designing again (does it ever stop?) lol
Also would you reduce the nutrient level? So many questions.
"Doing 10 with no Chance of Parole"

Hi Soyousee
Depending on how many plants you have to feed, adding an accumulator will take the workload off your pump.

The timing depends on the type of aero you use and how far you want to push it. I grow tomatoes outdoors in summer using low pressure aero (360 degree spinners + pond pump)running 24/7.
Indoors i use 2 different aero setups, one is a high pressure accumulator, solenoid based combo running a constant 90psi, timing ranges from 1 sec on/5mins off to 1sec on/2mins off depending on the growth stage.
The other is a more complex air atomising setup that uses compressed air to create the mist, the timing ranges from 0.5-2sec on/30s-3min off.