Thanks!! That's exactly the list I had (minus the wattage for the lights, thanks for that!!), and I have been reviewing the EC meters and I didnt know that was the same thing (duh...I know...but I'm a newbie LOL).

Let me ask you this...the place I was thinking of putting these is next to my back patio door, it doesnt get full sunlight because the back atio is covered. I wouldn't still need the reflective surfice would I? And I would assume I would still need 400 watt...? I could put it somewhere else if need be, it was just a thought.

The containers DO come with 3 part flora, but I DID want to go organic, so thank you for the recomendation!!

One more lame question... is the PH up and down the same as in pool supplies? I have to order this online, but there's a pool lace right around the corner of me, so if I could save money that way.... LOL

~~Cheri~~

Putting them at the patio door wouldn't be the best spot because the light will escape out the glass. You could go to walmart and buy emergency blankets, in the camping section. They are $3 for around a 4'x8'. You could tape it to the patio door and walls for reflection.

I'm not sure about the pool PH. The General Hydroponic PH up and down are around $10 a piece and will last for a long while. One tip, when mixing your nutrients with water,let it sit for a bit before adding PH buffers. Sometimes the solution will level off and you won't have to add any and if you do, add a drop or two at a time and give up to 15 min. to buffer.

Awesome!! See, that's the stuff that I would have never known! I'd be there all day trying to adjust it! lol
Never thought about the light escaping...duh... (slapping forhead moment). What about a laundry room? I was thinking about that today when I changed out the laundry. I have lots of room there and it has outlets and even a drain in the floor...

Perfect! I have a buddy that uses part of a laundry room to grow his plants. You need 2 more things: air intake and hot air exhaust. If you have central heat and air, you should have an air vent in your laundry room. That will take care of your fresh air coming in. For an exhaust, you'll need a 4" inline fan. You can either buy one online for about $100 or Home Depot sells a cheaper model for $30(in the air duct isle). You should be alright with the cheaper model. Put a 4" metal Y fitting where your dryer exhausts. One end fits the dryer, the other fits the inline fan, both blowing out the hot air. Keep the fan running 24/7. Hope I'm not feeding you too much info :~)

NO NO! Keep it coming!! lol By ALL means!!
:)
~~Cheri~~

you can probably live w/o the EC meter at first.
pH is important, but use the papers first. if you have decent water, you won't have to tinker with it much. I do not check my pH or EC with regularity. I used to before I was comfortable with my water.
Measuring devices are very important. go ahead and get yourself 5L, 500ml, 100ml, and 10 ml measuring devices. If you're tending a large reservoir, fill the thing with a measured amount of water (the 5L vessel helps here A LOT) then mark the side with a waterproof pen. saves a lot of time later.
a scale if you get into dry fertilizers.
a notebook/journal to record everything in.
and finally, a source of dry nutrients if you stick with this for long. the commercial stuff is just too expensive for extensive gardening.
These are some things that are often overlooked but can prove invaluable.
Good luck in your adventure.

I guess there is a reason why EC and PH meters aren't discussed extensively, neglected sometimes or how ever you want to put it, in some cases. Because there are two distinct philosophies for beginners:

1. using commercial products and recommendations, thinking by x tablespoon or ml per gallon/liter and hoping that PH is acceptable. Kinda feeling overwhelmed by the technical side, postponing this part for a while, etc.

2. Really wanting to control adjust and regulate both, nutrient concentration and Ph from start. This concerns more ambitious people who may have some technical skill set or are familiar with technical stuff of the kind. And, if you want, people who do not mind investing somewhat more in the first place.

Obviously some "control freak" doesn't belong in the first category and will not defend the "trust strategy" either. But looks like a bunch of folks are doing OK without ever using either a PH- nor a EC-meter. Many people seem to try without any "instrumentarium" and hope they get away without it ;-)
That's the "no matter-what-one-week-nutrient-change-recommendation-people", I guess. ;-)

The most important to know about PH here is, that the ideal condition would in fact be that your tap or base water in combination with your nutrients of choice would equal an adequate PH. Having some buffering even, and that there is no need to poke around with acids or stuff. Some people are indeed lucky to have such ideal or adequate conditions (by chance in fact). Hence, best is to know about your water conditions (PH and hardness - Ca/Mg content) FIRST, to find out if and what strategy and kind of PH control you have to use eventually. Then again this is hard to tell without using a PH-meter!

The other thing to get lucky would be that SOME manufacturer's recommendations would actually and perfectly fit your plants of choice, your setup, and other relevant conditions, etc. Still, how would you top off correctly without ever using a EC-meter?!

PS: Alternatively to a "cheap" PH-meter there is special indicator paper that comes in rolls (6m) and goes from 4.0-7.0 in 0.3 steps. It's half the price of a PH-meter and basically lasts longer as well. Cheap PH meter are kinda sensitive and last only a year or so, until the probe turns bad. A single lack of care (forgetting keep he probe humid) and it's gone.

One more thing: even if owning both, an EC meter and PH-meter you aren't exactly out of the mess. You still need to rely on SOME recommendation and sources. Testing and figuring out ideal values from scratch and on your own, would take very long and would most probably pay dearly. Concentration of nutrients isn't everything, the actual composition sometimes matters even more.

Choose your sources and data you relay on very CAREFULLY and do crosscheck them ALL- avoid getting indoctrinated (by whom ever or by any interest group) in this field !

Let me add something (I guess important) here:

As plants actually are very adaptable to different conditions, the quest for ideal conditions (in order of importance, the best PH, nutrient concentration and/or composition, temperatures, humidity, C02 etc) isn't exactly easy and may vary.

Also, you have to consider (understand) the difference between, sufficiency, acceptable conditions, ideal, most productive, etc. Because of the adaptability of many plants, people may actually do OK with certain conditions - but that doesn't mean that they or you couldn't do better, more economical, be more productive, getting more nutritional value, more flavor, or whatever improvement you could expect, when changing/improving this or that slightly.

I was "informed" several times here that this is an amateur place (if I like it or not) - but if I am not mistaken, some people are smart and eager enough to improve their skills - or simply get things right. As for my understanding, there is no difference between amateur, semi-pro or professional about what you can consider common sense and pragmatism in hydroponics. Right, for some of it, we cannot expect common sense - but at least for the essentiels and indiscutables, there shouldn't be any difference if you're a beginner or pro. Fortunately approved and working methods do not alter, no matter what your status is. Well actually the acceptance of some facts may still vary a lot, though ;-)

Cheri;
A lot of good info here. I already had lights from my traditional indoor seed starting setup although I did add some reflective screens made of paneling painted white until I found some Mylar. I also use the drier vent exhaust method for for air circulation. I made an ultrasonic fog cloner with sub aeration which also works as a DWC system for herbs & greens. I like it better than most of the cloning systems I have seen on the market. It Cost Under $100, it's custom and it gave me a feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment. I use Grizzman's suggested test strip and measuring cup method along with reservoir markings. I have been using Technaflora nutes although I plan on getting a Truncheon meter and dry nutes when finances permit. The PH test strips seem sufficient If you have good water, But you can't measure the PPM without an E.C. meter so your really guessing as to when to change the nutrients. I think a lot more people would be "hooked on ponics" if it didn't seem so complicated. Sure it's great to have a system that looks like it belongs in Dr. Jekyl's labratory, but it serves the beginner little purpose to become overwhelmed with technicalities. It is a science but you don't have to be Albert Einstien to figure it out. It can be a great learning experience and it can be done on a limited budget. What's mostly required is a small amount of common sense (something I humbly admit I have very little of). So go on and get growing and let us know how you make out. I think you will find it very rewarding. Good luck.
~~Ken~~

Thanks guys for the info! (and Lucas, I somewhat agree with you about the beginner/pro thing... I think the difference is trial and error for beginners...but all pros have been there!)

My whole reason for starting my hydroponics venture is to get healthy plants that produce healthy veggies packed full of nutrients for my family. And some herbs too (and NOT the kind you smoke!). I want to build a small system for that for my countertop.

Anyway, I read more about the meters and I realized how important it is, so it's at the TOP of my list. I don't know how my water is here, I DO know it has a lot of chlorine, so we'll see. It DOES rain here a lot tho in these next few months (I live in tornado alley LOL) so I'll be getting something to collect that. My tanks are only 5.7 gallons I think it was (just two beginner self contained drip systems...for now) but I plan to have a larger operation probably within the next year if I feel this is something I could do. (by 'larger' I mean a small 10x10 green house area lol)

What dry nutrients do you guys recommend?

Hardcly- I JUST saw a youtube vid on the fog system last night! That was interesting to me and I was going to do more research on it today! Have you seen a difference in your growth at all compared to your other systems?

One more question... idk if we can talk about this here, but I noticed that a lot of the info is for...questionable growing... I, of course, don't plan on growing anything but fruits and veggies and cooking herbs, but I don't know if that info would apply to the same thing. May be a stupid question, but I just want to make sure I'm getting good info LOL

~~Cheri~~

I would venture to say the pothead farmers, in general, know more about hydro and lighting than us vegheads. Hydro has been a mainstay of pot growing a long time. While I won't give specific advice on growing pot, I have no qualms looking at their sites and openly discussing here enlightenment I gained there. I don't grow the stuff so I'm not too concerned with who sees me talking about it, but each person has their own take on that.

LOL I assumed it was pretty much the same, just different crops. The same principles. I just wanted to make sure before I started reading their stuff.

I have a question to those who use dry nutrients, what do you use? Like I said before I want to do it right the first time, so I'd rather just jump in feet first and do the dry.

It actually is pretty much the same plot. Half of the time they're busy with answering newbee questions and the rest of the time, the smart-aleks spend getting mad at each other ;-)

Seriously, I believe that not only historically seen a lot of pioneer work has been done by hydroponic MJ-growers. Perfection in Cloning is just an example here. I even believe that among other techniques and "fine arts", the RDWC "recycled deep watter culture" was invented in these circles. Most importantly, (let's say most probably) due to the actual rentability of the business, this community has allowed the hydroponic market the actual break-through with their purchasing power. Well I believe so, anyway.

The downside (here I am pretty sure) is, that most myths and misconceptions were actually born and believed in these forums and transmitted to the "conventional forums" sooner or later. Then again, while some are demystified earlier over there as well, they are still pretty alive and regularly spread at this end. LOL

I did kill some time in 2 quite popular forums of the kind and there are indeed some cracks that truly know what they're doing. What I have found is that there is more spirit and sense of community (you bet), less envy and more consensus regarding specific and settled topics. This is probably related to the uniqueness of the crop they grow and the strict indoor conditions they relay on, though. Regarding the knowledge about formulas of either kind, their on specialty and other crops, to be honest - I was very disappointed. Unfortunately no actual common sense no real consensus on those. :-(
Various ideas, believes and concept about formulas and nutrient concentration as well, - but at least they seem to widely agree on ideal PH... for their babies...

Cheri;
Yes, I have compared the fog with sub aeration while cloning. The fog grows roots sooner and faster and grows more roots on top of roots. I call these secondary roots. They stick out kinda like pine needles. The top of the plant seems to go through far less stress with the fog. I think this is simply due to the reduced recovery time. I've read that this root structure is caused by the reduced water droplet size but I think it may have more to do with cations and anions, of which I can explain very little. However, after making these observations and returning to my base line of both air and fog I found that air and fog grow roots faster than fog alone. I believe this is due to the increased amount of fresh air being made available in the root zone. The fog is so thick that you could probably drown some types of plants without the aeration. Regardless, the visual effects are awesome with the air bubbles forming little mushroom clouds on the surface of the fog. I'm sure in your research of fogging you will come across some negative input regarding fouling of the disc. I don't feel it's that big of a deal. I clean mine about once a month with vinegar although I'm sure this requires more frequency with higher concentrations of nutrients. You should keep a spare disc on hand, however most cuttings & seedlings will do well on the sub aeration alone while the fogger is on downtime. Keep in mind that some other types of systems using jets and nozzles also require filter maintenance & cleaning and are subject to problems associated with mineral deposits. Last week a friend brought me these sticks that look like dried out asparagus the size of table legs. It's a good thing she explained to me that they are Plumeria (a Hawaiian tropical) as I was about to toss them in the fireplace. I'm not so sure about this, I'm looking at them and shaking my head thinking "If I can grow roots on these things I can probably grow roots on a baseball bat". Happy growing.
~Ken~

cheri_berry I believe when they say dry nutrients they are talking about making their own i.e calcium nitrate, pottassium nitrate, magnesium sulphate etc etc works out a lot cheaper in the long run.

I use a soluble hydroponic solution from southerag. Their pdf catalog isHere the product I use is on catalog page 6 at the bottom. you also need greenhouse grade calcium nitrate and epsom salts to complete the mix. I bought the epsom salts at the local pharmacy and the other two I bought from a local landscape supplier. (they ordered it for me)
Start here for more indepth instruction and component lists for building your own fertilizers.
Also, Jean-Luc has posted nutrient requirements for several plants here, so just search the forum.

I'm finding myself pretty obsessed with hydroponics right now. I have done nothing for 3 day straight but research and compare products and supplies!

I've decided that I'm going to build my own DWC buckets for my tomatoes. I just don't know when. But I'll have them for when my seedlings need transplanted, thats for sure. (...hopefully...)

~~Cheri~~

After all that research, in the end you'll just end up custom building something that suits you. It happens to us all.
Welcome to hydro anonymous.

I apologize if I started some kind of cannabis controversy, when I said "herbs & Greens". I meant Parsley, Cilantro, Rosemary, Thyme, Basil, Sage, Spinach, lettuce, Etc. I simply don't grow large fruiting veggies indoors such as cucumbers, Peppers, Squash, onions, carrots, Etc. because my indoor operation is not of that magnitude, and I will not give advice on growing them indoors or hydroponically as I have no hands on experience in doing so. I would be glad to offer advice on growing these types outdoors with organics on another forum. Furthermore to avoid future controversy, when I say "a Hawaiian tropical" I don't mean "Hawaiian MJ", I mean a flowering plant not to be confused with Poppy or Opium. Thank You.
Ken

Hardclay- LOL about the plumaria. That's my mom's favorite plant...that really turns into more of a TREE! lol I personally don't care for the smell of them, it's too strong LOL

gmcd- Thanks for the info!

Grizzman- Thank you too for the info! I will certainly look into his info!

You guys are all so helpful, thank you so much for taking the time to answer all my goofy questions (that I'm sure you've answered like a billion times LOL)

And just to clarify, the PH paper you guys were talking about...does it come in a roll like tape? I think I found some on amazon. I would have thought that was not accurate LOL I'm always up for ease and convenient, but not at the expense of my plants LOL

@cheri berry, if your wanting a dry nutrient, you can use maxi grow and maxi bloom from General Hydroponics. It's pretty cheap and works really well. I still like the liquid nutrients though.

@lucas, are you the creator of the "lucas formula" in the MJ forums? It's like the gospel over there. It's a nutrient formula using General Hydroponics 3 part flora series(without the grow).

Cheri- I would like to know how you plan on starting these babies. and Thank god for all the help these guys offer, I'm also new to HP so this has been great. Good topic!

@ urbangardenfarmer: no I'm not and as far as I know this "Lucas" has retired from duty some time ago. I also believe that this very formula is at least a "half-myth". The knowledge has evolved since and many folks seem to do as well or better with very different formulas.

@hardclay7a: you have two types of roots, when soil roots convert to true water roots, they are without cuticle or root hairs on the root's surface. Soil roots can fully convert to "true" water roots but not the other way round. What the fogger produces is actually "soil roots" as they aren't fully immersed in water. Root development depends on nutrient strength and composition. The weaker the nutrient, the more the roots tend to expand. What may look impressive hasn't to be overdone. Don't get fooled by the root size, - you actually want to grow greens, no roots - don't you? ;-)

theflgardener- I got some a-ok starter blocks, a couple germ stations and will put them under my lights.
I already have plants started tho... I got a little excited and I think I started them too soon (in jiffy plugs :/ ). But it's ok...I'll deal with that when I get to it. My hydro systems wont be here for a couple weeks, so I have time to figure it out. Plus I want to make a couple/few also, so idk LOL I found 10" neti baskets that you stick right onto a 5 gal bucket, so I'm goign to use those for two tomato plants I think with a bubble bucket.

What's your plan? :)
~~Cheri~~

@Cheri, I have a system I made at the beginning of january thats sort of like a cross between a drip system and a dwc. As soon as I get some extra cash flow(still need a timer, airpump/stone,and some Hydroton)I'll transplant my Tomatoes in there and cross my fingers.

ooooh, take pics, I want to see! Check ebay, I found a lot of hydroponics stuff on there. And my dad is buying all our stuff off of amazon. (I live in a super small town and the closest hydro store is 2 hours from me LOL)
~~Cheri~~

I just found this article and thought it would be informative for you...

Here is a link that might be useful: Microbes...

Thanks koidog! I'm off to read it now!

The article says that there aren't sources for "live" microbes. Not true, but you have to search for them. Not much for being a "how-to" article and it is missing some vital information.

yeah I was thinking the same thing! Like...how do I MAKE the tea? lol How to keep it alive, all the how to's were missing! but it was an interesting read, and it makes total sense. Have you found it commercially? If so I would love a link or at least a name so I can google it. Sounds like something I would like to dabble in to see the results.

There are different sources out there for mycorrhizal fungi. This fungi is best supported by bacteria, since it will demand energy (sugar) from your plants and the bacteria can help feed the fungi. Products I know of are EM1 and Quantum Growth (aka Inoculaid) - I know someone that uses both. EM1 needs to be activated and QG is live in the bottle (contrary to the information in that article). There are probably others that I don't know about.

If you are planning on brewing a compost tea, I think there is one important thing besides the water you use. The whole idea behind brewing a compost tea is that the compost needs to be full of beneficial microbes. The source of compost is VERY important and any time you try to grow microbes you take the chance with introducing pathogens (fungal, bacterial, etc). Store bought compost can be sterilized and may not contain any microbes at all - that is a recipe for disaster.

Well I would think that making it yourself would be the best, as with anything, but maybe for starting out commercial would be best. First I want to get myself established in hydroponics and learn the ropes, THEN I'll try this LOL I would like to do a study on it, raise a plant in micros and one without and see if there really is a dramatic difference like claimed.

I also like to talk to my plants. ;-)

Everyone has their own way of doing things. When I went through the process of building my pond, it was really tough to weed through the information and get things the way I like them.

Good luck with the growing season - I am going to be trying some new things this spring with my outside garden.

I've heard of people talking to their plants!

Seems that there is quite a controversy about the real "effectiveness" of Effective Microorganisms. In my opinion, because some protagonists try to prove the effectiveness under selective condition, while the antagonists tend to prove their ineffectiveness with experiments that seem to be chosen to fit this predicted curve. EMs and related seem to truly have a positive effect on PH-regulation though, and are indeed very good hyper-composting agents. Beyond that, it looks controversial and subjective to me.

Beneficial fungus like Trichoderma harzianum for fungal inoculation or Chitosan and related seem to have been confirmed useful and their effectiveness scientifically proved without a doubt.

Most important thing to consider here is, that you have to chose to either go for clean and sterile or for "inoculation" with beneficial organisms, You can't have both, you can't inoculate and sterilize at the same time! ;-)

You mean in general or just in the same system? I was thinking of doing one container with and one without under the same conditions, same plant, same nutes, just one with and one without (and I'm talking like next season or at least months form now, not right away) But are you saying I can't have them mixed in the same room?

First of all. when we talk about sterile and sterilization in hydroponics, it's not actually or literally sterile. This is a medical term or it is used in food processing. Here It's actually more like disinfection or "taking out" bacteria of the system.

On a practical level "sterilization" makes no sense, if what ever you sterilize is exposed to bacteria again in the second or minute that follows. And it makes even less sense if you have inoculated your media or your nutrients with beneficial bacteria or fungi, right!? If you disinfect media or nutrient solution, by using H2O or chlorine, you'll kill everything, also EM, or any other microorganism that may be beneficial or effective, as said.

If you are spraying EM or Trichoderma harzianum it's different of course, but here also, you wouldn't spray any pesticides or anti-fungal substances, after introducing beneficial fungi or EM! Not only from the choice of concept, but from the compatibility and logic, you would only choose and use one strategy . Same for so called organic nutrients, that need bacterial activity and a certain amount of media to break down some of the Nutrients. Here you wouldn't keep the system sterile (or disinfect it) either, as you need bacteria to do their job.

You can have a control group in the same room of course, as long as they are in an independent system and at a safe distance if ever you spray what may be threatening (or influencing) the other part of the experiment.

Yeah, I get what you're saying, that's pretty much common sense. I was confused because it didn't make sense why I would only be able to choose one or the other in the same room but different systems. I thought I had misunderstood something.

Thanks
(and ps, I wouldn't use ANY kind of chemical on my food.)

Not even sodium chloride on your tomato sandwhiches?

LOL that's a mineral ;)

That's a problem of language and terminology, as we aren't "thick" all together, or alternatively - are we? LOL

I guess it's the fault of people who want to force bifurcation (black-white thinking) in the dualistic world of ours. A world that wants things to either be good or evil. Hence chemicals also have to either be good or evil, - and as some are believed to be dubious substances, harmful, hazardous or even poisonous, we must think of them as being- and call them bad/evil by default.

It's a general problem in many discussions, because most people aren't actually educated or used (or even radically refuse) to differentiate, as in adding (different) concepts to the original concepts. ;-)

PS: don't you believe that nutrients are "minerals", - because what is used to compose standard nutrients can absolutely be defined as chemicals. They are in fact extracted from minerals in most cases, but yet undergo chemical processes with the extraction. Many are in fact products or byproducts, some even waste products of the chemical industry. Even some so called "organic nutrients" are in fact the result of chemical procedures, as in cooked in acid.

Example: If you dissolve magnesium, by 'cooking' magnesium carbonate in citric acid, as it is actually done with some "organic ingredients" for nutrients, would you call those chemical or organic?! If there is even synthetic citric acid used instead of natural citric acid (which is way to expensive), how would you call the component that is obtained through this process?!

We get played and fooled every single day - and even before the end of the day, not even waiting the exam at the end of the course - we already start to naively tell it around and try to convince others of the very same fallacies. That makes it possible for any lunatic to play the whole world by only telling their cock-and-bull story a single time ;-)

Thanks to all. I have been lurking and is now thinking of visiting the hydroponic store and building a homemade DWC for fun and to gain a little experience. I am basically interested in growing veggies. However, I remember reading somewhere about flushing the nutrients reservoir with plain water for 7 to 10 days before harvest to improve the taste of hydroponically grown veggies. I thought well maybe if you're growing lettuce, but it doesn't seems to make sense with plants like tomatoes and strawberries. Can the experienced hydroponic gardeners please say more about productivity and taste.

Thanks again,
LoLa

I'd be interested in that as well. I read somewhere that there is a product that sweetens tomatoes. I always wondered what was in that.

There is a product by General Hydroponics (GH) called FloraKleen, they suggest flushing your system with it for a few days (not sure about 7-10 days though). The FloraKleen was designed to help flush away built up salts in the system. I have no idea if it really improves taste, but I imagine that the idea of flushing with plain water is the same idea. Also I understand that the use of compost tea (both before and during harvest) can improve flavor as well, but cant say for sure if it really will.

From my personal understanding, running your system with plain water for a week or so, is merely and just another M-J grower's myth that has spread widely since. Sure thing, if some people saturate their nutrients with up to 300 ppm of Phosphorus plus a dozen of supplements and additives with these mystic brand names (and the heck what else) for the last 2-3 weeks before the harvest, - no wonder that their weed gets a funny smell and tastes like crap. LOL. And obviously, a good flush will help in eliminating exactly this at the end. It's like giving a free "chemist's nostrum" for screwing it all up by overdoing it drastically in the first place and then selling the cure for it eventually! I am not giving any other comparative example or analogy here, as anyone's imagination should be good enough to finding a few by themselves, where a good cleansing will help any severe contamination for sure ;-)

Btw: the best, easiest and actually only sure way to harvest sweet tomatoes is choosing a SWEET variety instead of one that has high acidity. The taste of tomatoes as in flavour type (if grown in an appropriate climate and with adequate nutrients and concentration) is and has always been a matter of GENETICS. There simply are several varieties of tomatoes that are really sweet "by nature" compared to others. If you don't consider this, nothing will help or can change the taste of a variety.

ok, that's what I thought before... but then I bought these melon seeds and some people say the variety is sweet, others say it;s bland. Then I read that the soil (or nutrients for hydro) that you use make a HUGE difference in taste and that's why some people had better results that others.
I think it's interesting to think about.
I have a friend that uses rock dust and minerals in his soil and says that it's made a huge difference in the taste.
So I'm beginning to think yes, genetics have a lot to do with it...but also how you grow it. Just like how you grow it has everything to do with production!!
What are your thoughts?

I grow several varieties of tomatoes and sell some of the starts. It almost always surprise me when some people come back to tell me just how much they loved the taste of the ones I tagged as flavorless and not worth growing. So besides genetics and the environment, there are other variables to consider when it comes to taste.

Would love to compare the taste of my garden tomatoes with a hydroponic ones, someday. Cheri, can you give us an update on yours. And Lucas and homehydro, thanks for the info.

sure woill! Let me go take some pics and I'll work on that ;)

Update on my stuff

http://beginnershydroponics.blogspot.com/2010/06/getting-bigger.html

Here is a link that might be useful: My blog

btw, thats at 5 weeks