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sabotagenic

Preparing for my indoor garden.

Sabotagenic
9 years ago

I am trying to research the steps to take in building and maintaining an indoor vegetable garden. So far, I have a 1000 watt HPS light, fan, 10-5-14 nutrients, PH tester, and a basic understanding of hydro. In the past I've tried using coco coir under a T5 with very little success.

Anyways, my idea for this (since I live in a studio) is to create a quasi tent set-up, a frame from either wood or pvc pipe, which is draped (and stapled) with a reflective non-flammable material like panda film 7 feet tall, 5 feet wide, 6-8 feet long. The first problem I have, of course, is figuring out how to do this safely. I could mount the HPS to the ceiling and use chains to lower it into the tent, but I'd rather connect it to the frame itself. I've been told that these lights can get very hot, so I'll have two fans directed at the top of the tent.

But here's where I'm pretty clueless. I keep hearing about these reservoir or wick systems, but they seem to be expensive to set-up, and I'm afraid of something electrical falling into water, of a leak etc. My plan was to use pro-mix potting soil mixed with perlite, and then fertilize accordingly, but...

1) I have no idea how much and when to feed nute-wise each vegetable (whether that's spinach or cantaloupe) 2) Don't know if this is going to be a productive option with high yields, or if all the varieties of seeds can grow in there (I'm looking to have enough to replace vegetables from the grocery store).

Really, I'm pretty clueless here. When I try to scour the internet about hyrdro, or this grand idea, everything is so contradicting or messy that it doesn't really help. Books suggestions would help..

But honestly, what would everyone do in my situation?

Btw, these are the seeds I'm looking to plant: Romaine lettuce, tomatoes, spinach, beans, swiss chard, cucumber, carrots, cantaloupe.

Thanks!

Comment (1)

  • grizzman
    9 years ago

    First decide which vegetables warrant being grown at home. a lot of them are simply less expensive to buy than to grow. Be sure to compare to organic grocery stores prices too if that is your concern.
    Next, other than too contain the heat (or shield the light) I'm not sure the reflective sides are necessary. It seems to me they would just interfere with tending the plants.
    3rd, don't worry about electricty coming in contact with reservoirs (whether due to wick systems or not). You have got to keep light off your nutrients or you'll have algae growth problems. Whatever you use to block the light will also protect from electrical accidents. Plus, are you really that uncertain of your ability to attach a wire to a wall that it may fall unexpectedly. **note: I'm really just kidding in the last statement.** None of the basic simple hydro systems are expensive to set up. Proper aero is but most others will cost less than your lights. a basic ebb n flow system (if you decide against just water a blank nutrient) would probably grow everything you want other than the carrots. For root crops, I've read (haven't done it myself) your best bet is to grow them in sand using a drip irrigation system.

    a lot of contradiction in hydro on the web (this site included) is because people all have different intensity levels in which they approach hydro. Some take every effort to ensure all due diligence is given to every aspect of the growing system. Others just plop a plant in a bucket of water and change said water every now and again. Neither extreme is necessary but they certainly don't always see eye to eye on how to address issues. Most everyone else is somewhere in between.
    If I were going to venture into indoor growing (I use hydro outdoors or in sunny windows only, currently), I would invest in a hood that is sealed on the bottom and place inline vents running across the light to draw the hot air out and discharge it outside.
    As for nutrients: If you're going to hand water each plant you do it the same way you would any planted pot. Water when the soil is dry 1" down. I would probably use a middle of the line nutrient concentration of about 800ppm initially recognizing that with time you'll get a buildup of excess nutrients in the medium. So you'll need to flush them periodically. I might alternate nutrients with plain water to try and keep the medium clean.
    Anyway, those are my initial thoughts on what you're trying to do. I'm sure other will chime in with their thoughts and experiences and hopefully you'll come away with a better idea of what you're after.