I thought I would post a pic to show how things are going. I flushed the system and cleaned everything with a 10% bleach solution. I added cannazyme to see if that would eat away some of the roots that turned brown, if they were dying? Well they are still brown but there are some new roots appearing out of the pots, the brown ones stopped growing?

As long as the plants (leaves) look good, don't worry. As far as browning root tips, this could be a result of the nutrient solution becoming too warm.

You do know, I hope, that the same nutrient mix cannot be used for tomatoes as for peppers. The EC for peppers is low, while the EC for tomatoes is extremely high.

Thanks freemangreens, I did not know that the ec needed to be different. So for i was just following the directions on the label (Botinicare). Should the ph be different as well? And what is considered to high of a nutrient temp so as to burn the root tips? It is around 75 degrees. I know that is pretty warm, I have been cleaning and changing out the nutes every 5 days to keep on top of any bad stuff growing.

I've thrown in a link to some "Growing Tables" that will list all the common EC and pH readings for various cultivars.

75 degrees is fine. What you have to watch out for is when the reservoir is sitting in direct sunlight or if a pump should overheat; that's when things get too hot for the roots. Just feel the water with your finger. If it feels warm, it's probably too hot and you should figure a way to cool it down.

Here is a link that might be useful: EC & pH Growing Tables

Ah, the nutrient EC tables published by nutrient manufacturers. First listing for capsicum is 920-1260ppm for nutrient concentration.

I have been growing capsica for 15 yrs in hydro with great success and never use more than 600 ppm or I start to get overfeeding symptoms. Ask any experienced capsicum grower and he will tell you the same.

You will get some browning on new root tips and on as well older roots as with this capsicum chinense. As long as the root ball in general doesn't turn brown, all is well.

Dang willard, thats an impressive root mass!
Well I am new to all this so I have yet to buy an ec meter, so i'm going half strength on the pepper plants, By the way, they are red bell and orange bell, are they in the capsicum family?

I also have some pics below of the progress on the plants.
The red bell on the bottom right is growing well but the larger leaves have this rolling around the edges, it's not severe and is not getting worse. Just wondering if it was something I am doing wrong?

On the Roma tomatoes, the plant on the left kept getting some clear slime on the roots so I was cleaning every other day, but it kept returning? And when it did the leaves would get all deformed and twisted. The guy at the hydro shop said to use Dutch master Zone. Well I put 5ml in all the takes and the roma tank on the left foamed like crazy all night! The leaves straightend out this morning!

Hi kylle,
"Zone", by Dutch M. is marketed as a "root zone conditioner ... maximally absorb nutrients... chelation system ... controls root rot ..."; & then you do not use beneficial bacteria as they will be ineffective.
Not everybody can obtain this where they are.
The "rare earth element" sounds like the well known nutrient chelator Humic acid (see Jun. 4, 2009 post "What elements influence taste, flavor, etc."). Humic acid can be found with even an 8.98 pH, so the next ingredient is not illogical.
The "sanitizer" (not hydrogen peroxide) is a fungal oxidizer & would inhibit bacteria (including those you might be tempted to add).
Sulfur dioxide (SO2) is a fine & safe sanitizer - just ask any alcoholic beverage brewer. The oxidation reaction on the plant roots' micro-organisms explains the frothy bubble phase & resultant clean looking/smelling roots.
Sodium metabisulfite (pH 4.5 - 5.5) would release up to 67% S02, but of course you have to deal with the sodium.
Potassium metabisulfite (K2S2O5, & in solution as KHS03) has 58% available SO2, with between 3.8 - 4.6 pH. It is sold in dry form by mail order for home brewing & once mixed liquid must be kept tightly closed to maintain full oxidative potential.

Thanks for the reply gringojay. I'm real new to all this so some of that kinda went over my head, but I'm learning.

Well I'm having trouble with the tomatoes. The same thing is happening that happend at the same point in my first attempt. All is well till about the fourth week and the plants droop and curl over night, and growth almost stops. The leaves "starting from the oldest first" get these little bumps on the bottom? Pic below.

Has anyone seen this before,I lost my last batch due to this. I looked through pictures of diseases and fungusis and nothing seemed to match? The pepper plants have been affected.

Edema.....

Hi kylle,
As for edema appearing after 4th week & trying not to lose production:
maybe too much moisture accumulating in growing medium.

I meant to say that the pepper plants have not been getting this.

Thanks for the tip on edema. I looked it up and the plants had all the symptoms so I lowered the water level in the buckets and put a fan on them (websites advice) and they purked back up a little, and no more new bumps under leaves.
Pepper plants are still doing well.

One of my Bush Goliath tomato plants had the same problem with the roots turning brown and dying. I suspected root rot and was about to throw the plant away but decided to play doctor instead and attempt to revive it.

I am using a DWC setup and have them in buckets in front of my garage door. The nutrient solution was getting way too hot so i went to Home Depot and bought a small piece of insulation and wrapped the bucket. Then i placed two white garbage bags over it and taped them up. The solution is around 10 degrees cooler now and seems to be helping.

One thing i noticed that helped tremondously was placing the bucket and net pot in the sink and allowing the water to flush the roots for about 10 minutes.
I tried adding peroxide in small amounts but my plant didn't seem to respond well so i stopped.

I am fairly new to dwc and i have to say keeping the nurtient solution temp in check has been my biggest hurdle.

I am also a very strong believer in adding more airstones. I have one bucket with a large round 5 inch airstone attached to two large aquarium air pumps and the difference in growth is amazing.

I started keeping a photo journal of my progress on shutterfly.com. You can see the photos of my roots and how they went from near death to their current state.

Here is a link that might be useful: My DWC Tomato Growing Experience