how old are they?
Do you know what variety they are?

I've got a similar situation! I'm even using Floramato and supplementing it with a flowering nutrient. I'm growing a bunch of different heirloom varieties, and they initially flowered a bit, but then they stopped flowering altogether. I've moved them outside where they'll get pollenated if and when they do bloom...

Anybody have any suggestions on what might be going wrong?

you nutrient solution will not induce a plant to produce flowers. it may affect how they develop (or don't) and how the fruit comes out, but it won't dictate the creation of the flowers themselves.
Generally its a light, age, variety, and/or temperature matter. a determinate variety will only flower after a set amount of time. indeterminate varieties flower based on the amount of sunlight they receive in a day. If the temperature is too great, most plant stop actively growing.

Hi The variety is Ciliegia from Suttons Seeds. The seeds were planted in a propagator 23rd May and moved to the flood and drain system the 5th June. The plants are inside a medium sized room with a large south facing window. Only natural light has been used. What seems odd is that I would have expected flowers to have been produced at the lower levels of the plant where there are only leaves.

Many thanks

If your nutrients are very high in Nitrogen that will promote vegetative growth and discourage flowering. Even so, I wouldn't expect it to eliminate flowering entirely, usually it just makes the plant spend more time growing more vines.

I'd go ahead and start mixing the bloom nutrient at half strength with what you've been feeding them, but also at half strength. That way you're scaling back on the growth nutrients and feeding it more of what it needs to bear fruit. Fruiting is basically the plants way of ensuring the survival of its genes, so if you want to make it work harder in this direction you need to convince it that it has to really focus its efforts there. Sort of "scare" it a little, let it think its own days are numbered.

With some plants altering the lighting cycle does this by making it think winter is coming.

With tomatoes just cutting back on the N a bit should do it.

Did you come up with that design yourself? Is it a modified design of another one you possibly found on the internet? I also wonder if you have noticed much of a difference in your plants health, size, and fruit productivity compared to growing them in the ground after starting with Hydroponics.

Sorry, I accidentally posted this question to the wrong thread.

Hi,

Your plants are still young when you made this post. They are only 47 days old. Surely they will still have no flower. I bet it started flowering now. Your plant is also too tall, it lacks light.

WTF? "Your plant is also too tall, it lacks light."

I don't have psychic powers, so I'm not sure how you know that. If it is tall because it stretched due to low light then yes, it needs more light. If it's tall because it's just really healthy and growing fast then no, there's not a damn thing wrong.

And there's no way to know which is which no matter how tightly you press your third eye to the screen.

dave - how's it going? Have you fed it anything?

Here's my 2-cents' worth:

Tomatoes especially, will cast off their first flowers. That's okay, the first ones are not mature enough to do anything anyway. Don't worry about it.

If your foliage is dense and super-dark green, you're nitrogen content is too high. As the plants get stalky, cut back on the feeding.

Also, you can cut the tops out of the plants. If it is indeterminate (grows forever, basically!), you'll want to do this anyway. Cutting it back makes it stalkier and pushes it to flower.

Once it flowers, cut back on the water a bit. Once in fruit, cut back even more. If it's hot, watch that it doesn't go completely DRY -- dry is not what we're after here! Dry is bad.

If plants are indoors, use an electric toothbrush to "tickle" the flower stalks. This mimics bee's wings. Bees usually latch on to the flowers, while their wings buzz in the breeze and this action shakes off the pollen.

You can also "tap" the flower stalks to distribute the pollen. Do this mid-day between noon and 2 p.m. You'll be able to see the pollen "dust" sprinkle all over the place if the blooms are sexually ripe.

If after doing all this, your tomatoes either don't bloom or don't produce, maybe you should consider starting new plants. I grow from heirloom seeds and have NEVER had this problem.

God bless.

:O)

I must agree with hydroponica's assessment as far as determining so definitely the cause of height. I don't think 2 1/2 feet tall is too tall for a month and a half for some varieties when grown in a good system. Especially when using sunlight.

So, how about now? Any flowers? If the plants are severely stressed early on, it can postpone flowering. I would have expected flowers and fruit set by now for certain. Know what I use to pollinate? Not a toothbrush. I use a "vibrating massager" from a novelty adult shop. Cost me ten bucks and I just have to touch the bottom of the flower cluster. Works better than a toothbrush and you don't have to worry about accidentally damaging any flowers with bristles (which I've done on tight clusters). Greenhouses that don't use bees use vibrators. Of course, they are shaped different and are longer to allow for more reach (and avoid confusion).