I can't comment on the extra ingredients. I suspect the "not a plant food ingredient" might be to get around regulatory issues related to fertilizers.

I know that well made composts and biodigested products have a lot of humic acid. The benefit of buying a "corporate" product is consistency. They probably have standard input materials therefore the output will be the same batch after batch. This is unlikely to be the case with home-made products unless you have access to a dairy barn, chicken house, etc....

First off thank you AdrianaG and others who emailed me.

Now. I have learned the sources of humic acids. I would like to know how it is commercialy blended. What is the process? What are the chemicals used in a (typical high end commercial product?), what strength, how mixed, etc.
Anyone who can help in anyway-thank you.
Ema

I have been using fulvic acid for 6 weeks now at 125ppm
every 2 weeks and am starting to see a noticable strength to
my houseplants

Fulvic and Humic acids from what I've read is a natural chelate as opposed to synthetic chelates like EDTA. Unlike EDTA they are absorbed by the plant. Also Humic acids promote microbacterial growth. I guess my question is are Fulvic and Humic acids recommended only for "organic" hydroponic solutions or are there practical observed benefits for using it in a pure chemical solution?

No, they are not just for organic gardening. Back to your first question. To get fulvic acid you have to do an acid extraction of humic acid. Fulvic is placed at the very end of humics molecular molecule. GH adds potasium hydroxide to there solution to bring the pH back up. So the diamond nector is not a pure fulvic. A pure fulvic should not even read on a ppm meter. That is when you know who have a great product in your hand. Call a store in Portland, Or and ask for the Fulvic Force. It comes in a supper concentrate so shipping is very minimal. It is the purest thing I have ever seen. Results are incredible. If growing hydroponically, fulvic is the one you want. It reacts much faster than humic and is less pH sensitive. Using it with chemicals will only speed up the process of nutrient assimulation to your plant. And ofcourse, once it is on the plant it boost metabolism from within.

p.s. fulvic force is 10x stronger than diamond nector after dilution

don't worm castings contain humic and fulvic acid's?

I do believe you're correct.

http://www.revitalfertilisers.co.nz/index.asp?PageID=2145820807

Humic and fulvic acids can be extracted from plants and the earth. Bentonite, Leonardite, Shale, Clay, Lignite... handfull in a quart jar...fill with ro water...strain the water when u want nice drench ;)

One thing you all need to learn is that humic substances have the most amount of misinformation spread about them in the agricultural industry and even more in the hydroponic industry. To answer a couple of questions.

95% of fulvic products, usually potassium fulvate are not what you think they are. Anyone who talks about a super concentrate is a salesman. Pure fulvic will read ppm the only thing that won't is pure water. Humic acid and fulvic acid are the two main organic acids extracted from humic substances. Humin is another but is of no use in hydroponics as it is completely insoluble. When people talk about solubility of humic and fulvic this is not actually correct. they form what are called colloidal suspensions. Commercially they are extracted from brown coal also called low grade coal or lignite, preferably from a brown coal called leonardite which is more soluble because it is more oxidised and the average oxygen and functional group content is higher. They are also extracted from peat, leonardite is high in humic and low in fulvic generally and peat in comparison has a higher fulvic content and lower humic content. I won't go into the details of extraction and isolation but basically potassium hydroxide is used to get the soluble humic substances into solution and then the humic acid is precipitated to separate it from the soluble fulvic. An array of different additives are used to increase the effiancy of extraction and are usually dependant on the source material of the humic matter.

I have worked on humic substances for 15 years consulting all over the world inc. Europe, Russia and China. If you want to make your own home made fulvic the easiest way is to buy some peat, and add about 1.5 litres of vinegar to 500g of peat. Mix well and leave for a couple of days or more. Strain out the peat and your done. If you have a highly decomposed compost this will work as well especially if you have added microbes to your compost.

@paulkeating6_022_gmail_com.

Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. You're going to save someone like me who runs a profit-sharing tomato patch for young adults who have aged out of foster care a lot of money. We usually have a 100 tomato plant garden, this year we are thinking of expanding to 200. We are in Northern Indiana so I can get bog peat $50/ton. Our soil is low in magnesium and the old 'go to' for that is epsom salt in either a soil drench or a foliar feed. But I've read that a plant can't take up magnesium sulfate and that magnesium fulvate is what you want.

2 questions:

1) After making the fulvic solution using vinegar, what would be a safe dilution for foliar feeding?

2) Do I need to add special kinds of magnesium, potassium, etc to make their fulvate form. Or is it as simple as adding the right recommended amount of standard store-bought chemical for foliar feeding to the recommended amount of fulvic acid and presto!

Thanks again for sharing this with us.

Would i benifit by adding a product : 4%seaweed,4%Fulvic acid , 4.5% humic acid into my salt water pool? would this put in good bacteria/ nutrients or would i start a problem?

i was thinking 2 ounces into my above ground 70,000 gallon pool.

I suffer with health problems and try to use benifical methods only.