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rugby10_gw

Drip system, and Light... Advise/Opinions wanted!

rugby10
18 years ago

Hello all,

I hope everyone had a great Holiday! Pray for those less fortunate! and don't get to bored reading my diatribe.

I have a few questions regarding my proposed set up, and I hope some of you can help. I will explain my proposed set-up and I will have build pictures as the project progresses.

I live in a small studio apt. and the growing season is close to an end here. I wanted to try my hand at a small or micro Hydro set-up for Beans, Peppers, and Strawberries. Also need to overwinter my tropical Bonsai, and impress my friends so they keep on being my friends... Just kidding, but I hope it turns out to be cool.

I'm working on a budget as I'm a student in Emergency Medicine.

My system: Recirculating Drip. I'm going to use two Rubbermaid Roughneck storage totes (10 Gallon/37.9L) made with LDPE (for the safety factor). One for the reservoir/Pump housing, and the other as a tray.

Totes (Home Depot) $5.37 ea.

The tray will be comprised of; 6 x 3.5" mesh pots filled with Hydroton's expanded clay pellets set into and Supported by the lid. The lid will be reinforced with two pieces of .5" PVC tube.

Mesh pots (local hydro store) $.35 ea.

PVC (home depot) $1.97 for 5'

Hydroton Clay Pellets (local hydro store) $5.99 for 1L bag.

A Rio 600 Pump will deliver the nutes/H2O via .5" hose to an outlet spider attachment in the center of the tote. The spider (AKA .5" bubbler) is a cap with 6 x .25" connectors and a .625" I.D. (inside diameter AKA Female) threaded inlet. Connecting the .5" pump side hose to the spider required; a slip fit .5" male end with an .625" O.D. (outside diameter AKA male) threaded head (AKA .5" MIPT connector). Total head on the pump is 18" which yeilds about 140GPH according to the Rio chart.

Pump (aquarium store) $14.99

Spider (Home Depot) $3.29

.5" Connector (Home Depot) $1.59

Air:

I had an old air pump laying around. I will add it to the reservoir to pump air 24/7 via walmart diffuser stone.

Small fan to circulate air around the plants.

Temp/Humidity for last three days;

max: 76.8F

min: 68.3F

Humidity expressed as % or H20 in Air:

Max: 37%

Min: 29%

Light: Florescent or HID? This one had me reading every site on the web I could find (including the Illegal growers). I still had problems putting all the information together in my head. There seems to be a compromise with everything you pick.

These are my observations; (please help and correct me where I'm wrong)

Florescent lights will work. The daylight bulbs or those in the 5000K range or higher seem to produce the best results. You need to position the light very close the the lamp for it to be effective as light intensity is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the point source. The total lumen output of Florescent lights is less than that of HID.

HID's such as MH and HPS are the preferred choices of most indoor hydroponic growers, as they put out an amazing amount if light and are efficient for comm. operations. The drawback is the price to obtain an HID fixture, the relatively high cost of replacement bulbs.

Of course there will be dissension on a forum like this. I wanted to believe that Florescent would be the best choice for me... mainly because they are cheaper. I read that many growers do all out Florescent grows with great success. One could make the argument that Florescent lights are THE tried and true method, after all they started the whole thing.

Here is my situation; Now you have some choices when it comes to type of bulb, length, Output; VHO, HO, etc. But I don't have these options... my studio is 175 sq ft. Also, I'm on a budget!

My My tote (see above) is 22" x 14.5". I need 24" fixtures or smaller. So, 2 - 24" x 2 bulbs to get adequate light coverage (one for each row of plants). As a basic rule of thumb I've read is 20-50W per square foot. Or I could get CFLs in that range as well.

my specs with 2 x 24" fixture w/ 4 F24T12/Daylight/High Output bulbs from 1000bulbs.com would be;

35w x 4 = 140w

1,134 lumens (mean) x 4 = 4536 lumens in the 6500K range

1w = 32.4 lumens

Price:

24" fixtures (Home depot) $18.88 ea. x 2 = $40 something with tax.

Bulbs (1000bulbs.com) $5.50 ea. = $22 something with tax.

Troubles:

Hanging chains

Less elegant and clunky looking (remember, I'm doing this to impress people :) LOL just kidding)... but it is kind of ugly.

------------------------------------------------------------

My specs with a 70w HPS security light would be;

70w = 70w

5350 Lumens (mean) in the 1900K range.

1w = 76.4 lumens

Price:

Fixture and one bulb (Home Depot) $68.99

Replacement bulbs(1000bulbs.com): $7.72 ea.

Troubles:

Building a support base/stand

I went ahead and bought the 70w HPS today after a ton of self debate. I have about $140 dollars into this thing with all of the misc. and I'm very pleased with that. My question(s) are;

1. What do you think of my plan thus far?

2. How far should I space my plants from the 70w HPS?

3. What type of flow should I set my timer to? 15 on / 45 off?

4. I think I will need a TDS/EC/Ph meter. What do you guys think of this one?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1613537961&ccitem=

5. Besides Nutes, H20, and plants... What have I missed?

Comments (13)

  • rugby10
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Forgot to add a BIG;

    THANK YOU!

    This site is AWESOME!

  • rugby10
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I built the reservoir/pump housing, and the tray this afternoon. Still have to build the light stand.

    Here are some pics. I'm quite plesed with how it turned out.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/nonoriginal/net-area.jpg
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/nonoriginal/top.jpg

    Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1013343}}

  • GRTbert44
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Im new at hydroponics, but im sure i'll do quite great.I have a system in an area of 8ft x 4ft x 7ft. I need to know what wattage of flourescent lighting to use and the distance above my plants. I'm growing 3 plants in a drip system and 3 in a N.F.T.(nutrient film technique). I have, I believe, everything I need to do this with. I'm planning on using 3 small light fixtures as well. If this is a good experience for me then I will continue hydroponics and start a bigger garden in the future. Help if u can? bert

  • rugby10
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Bert,

    What do you want to grow? Is it a flowering Veggie or Greens?

    Based on my rough calculations (8'*4'=32sqft) you have 32sqft to illuminate. You need: 640w for 20w per sqft / 960w = 30w per sqft / 1280w = 40w per sqft and so on.

    A watt is a watt.

    Heat:
    The differece between HID and Florescent is; Most HID have a sigle *point* source of light and employ a reflector to spread the light out. The concentration of light from that source heats up faster. As there is less surface area to dissipate the heat.

    Flor's are and extended source of light. I.e. spread along the tube. The heat a 400w Flor makes compared to a 400w HID is the same in a Vacuum. The difference lies in the way the heat is dissipated. Flor's have a MUCH bigger surface area to dissipate the heat.

    PAR or useable light:
    HID lamps put out about 14 umol PAR per klux. White fluorescent give 12 and Incandescent give 20. HPS can give up to 120-140 klumens per 1000 Watts while MH give only 80-100, Fluorescent give 70 and Incandescent give only 20.

    Just doing the math as I did above (see post one) pretty much summed it up for me. I get 1/3 more PAR for half the wattage. I think you'll get the same using just about any head to head comparison.

    The drawback of Flors is several fold;

    1. Because of the larger surface area the light intensity drops off quickly. The plants need to be really close to the lamp. For 1K watts or more that is a ton of heat.

    2. As you can see above, the useable light per kWatt from a florescent is somewhat less efficient than HID.

    3. When your talking numbers from 700w to 1400w. The price to replace 20 bulbs or more will offset the cost of a single HID and lamp replacement... including reflectors.

    For example: for 1000w of florescent @ 75w per bulb you need 13 bulbs or more @ 96". About $130 from 1000bulbs.com for F96T12/Artic Brite. This yeilds roughly 62K lumens. 62*12 = 744umol

    For $38 you can get a single 1000w HPS bulb w/ 124K lumens. 124*14 = 1736umol

    I'm not trying to discourage you from using Florescent. I haven't done all of the math. However, I think its safe to assume that most people would be better off using an HID lamp instead of Florescent. I'am and I'm a poor student.

    Good luck!

  • baci
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Have you tried the strawberries yet? If so, how are they doing? By the way, if you want to save money you can start them from seed.

  • rugby10
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Baci,

    The strawberries were bare rooted into my system last week. pH 6.21-6.76 /PPM 430-530 with BC Nutes so far.

    They are doing well as far as I can tell... Lots of vigorous new growth and such.

    I went with a 150w HPS Hydrofarm light, as the buzzing from the 70w hps security light was too much...

    The drip runs 24/7.

    Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1013344}}

  • baci
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    rugby10, your strawberries look great. Your picture makes your system explanation so much clearer.
    There is little concrete information about hydro strawberry growing online, so it will be interesting to see how well yours do. It would be nice if you could trick the plants into growing winter fruit.

  • patusho25
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    rugby, your system looks great, but they will be most expensive strawberries in the world at the end. Cant you grow them in the ground or it is just for fun?

  • rugby10
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Baci -

    Thanks... They are growing like crazy. Roots are starting to appear from the bottom, and they look very healthy. Lots of new shoots or runners, and they all seem very compact...except for one?

    Three of them are fruiting right now. It seems that they are all on different time tables... aaarrrgggg! I modified my nute settings so that it would accommodate the fruiting plants with the others in Veg. Its turing into a compromise... for this cycle.

    Oh well, this is my first grow. I plan on keeping the plants in there as long as possible. I start a Fire Academy in January, so I won't have time to experiment with new plants.

    Anyway, I'm using strait tap water: pH 8.2 / PPM 290. I use 1.5mL/gal of PH DOWN(Nitric acid) to bring the pH to 6.3. It has actually Buffered there quite nicely, as I haven't had to mess with pH at all. I Just keep topping off with pH balanced h20 when my PPM's go up. I'm trying to keep the PPM's at 750 right now... Just experimenting I guess.

    Patusho25 -

    thanks for the complement. I could grow them in the ground, you're right. In fact, anyone "could" grow them in the ground. I think hydroponics is a lot easier than spending countless hours in the yard chasing critters, pests, weeds, neighbors, and battling the environment.

    The initial financial outlay is more than that of a "traditional" garden. However, once you have the tools necessary to grow indoor hydroponics, the cost is considerably less than a "traditional" garden year after year. Potting soil isn't reusable... Clay Pellets are. Pests and insects can destroy your crop... they don't exist in such numbers indoors. Birds/squirrels/cats/dogs/children Love to eat/destroy garden fruit... No worries when your indoors.

    I don't have to change clothes, or set aside an entire morning to tend my garden.... which leaves me more time for my Bonsai. I don't have to pull weeds. I don't have to water. Everything is on a timer.

    I check my plants and nute tank every morning in my underpants with a hanna combo meter...lol. It takes me all of a minute to read and adjust if necessary. My air is being filtered by these plants.

    I can grow veggies when its impossible to grow veggies outside.

    So yeah, its mostly for fun...right now. When I can afford to buy a house with a big back yard. I will probably set-up a big operation and make money using the knowledge I've gained in this setting. Organically grown food commands premium prices at the farmers market here. You never know what you can do till you try.

  • baci
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I grew some in NFT this year, & noticed the same thing some were fruiting while some were not. The problem I had was my pump tube came out intermittently, & if it happened during high heat, some of my plants fried very quickly. I switched to growing them in peat, which seems to work better for me. The plants will survive in the heat & the media lowers the pH.
    If you were growing many of them, maybe the trick would be to put the blooming ones in a separate system & change to a bloom formula.
    Good to see you made it back home OK, patusho25. You must be able to grow things the rest of us can only dream of.

  • euqruob
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just made something very similar. I took 2 18 gallon totes, got a small water pump, ran up half inch tubing, split 6 ways and I'm ready to go. Gonna do it outside while its still nice here in Phoenix, if it gets too hot, I'll bury the resivior.

    I'm not ready to buy a lighting system yet. I plan to put some of my tomato seedlings which have been in peat discs for the last 3 weeks in the system.

    Unbelievably cheap to build, and easy as heck.

  • willardb3
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It's another uncontested myth that hydro is more expensive that dirt gardening...I do both and I keep records.

    The difference in cost in my case is the cost of elec in the g'hse to run the lights and heat....this cost would be the same for dirt growing and, with dirt growing, there would be costs for pathogen treatments and pesticide treatments that I don't have in hydro.

    Actual compared costs show, after about 3 years, hydro is less expensive than dirt gardening.

  • organic_oddity
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    New here - but thought I'd comment on the above.
    Living in MD my outdoor garden is being transformed into raised beds (bad soil, lots of moisture), frame with chicken wire enclosing the entire structure (squirrels, rats, kids, rabbits), considering plexi-glass roof to divert rain water into a drop system which can be shut off in case we have another year like last year (way too much water), and trying to control pests through natural means. Total cost (without the plexi roof and PVC for the drip) so far is running me approximately $350. And I only get to grow for about 8 months out of the year.
    My small hydro setup indoors does far better by my standards. I also factor in the cost of tomatoes and peppers (if you can find them) in January.

    If I'd have had the money (and lived in a better neighborhood where I could trust kids around the greenhouse) it would've been far cheaper/better to go with an outdoor hydro/aqua setup.