I'm growing Fanciful Coral this year. I started a little later than usual for bedding Impatiens this year, but mine appear to be fine. I had excellent germination, too.
I got the seeds from a well known wholesaler.
The curled under leaves suggest they may have been exposed to cold temps.
I hope they perk up!
Alana

Hi Alana
Did you plant other impatiens seed besides the Fanciful? Guess I am wondering if the Fanciful has a different way of developing when the seedlings were coming up. Maybe they need to be warmer during germination than other impatiens? Are the seedlings more delicate coming up than other impatiens seedlings? My Fanciful were all planted right in with all the impatiens seed flats. They were all on heating mats at 72 degrees for germinating. There were doubles and singles of different varieties, but the Fanciful were so different. Not as strong a plant. I had the coral, pink, salmon and white Fancifuls that I got from Ebay and the Fanciful Sweetheart pink that I got from a from a catalog.
The pinks turned out the worst. I will get some plants, but they are really slow growing.
Thanks for answering, Alana.
Sherry

The only other seed grown impatiens I started this year were hybrid Mosaic Orange, which has been a bit slower for me than the Fanciful Coral, and I. balfouri which is not comparable. The reason I mentioned exposure to cold was my own experience with the Mosaic Orange. I left them in an unheated greenhouse a couple of nights in early April that we got into the 30's and the leaves were cupped downward the next few days and their growth slowed, which I attributed to the exposure to cold. I really don't know if the Fancifuls are less cold tolerant.
I will be watching them to see how they compare with other Impatiens this season, though.
Alana

I've started impatients inside for quite a number of years, including fancifuls. I've had good luck with them. I'm sure I don't have *the* answer, but I can give you what works for me. I have one of those old fashioned rooms in the upstairs of an old house; south side; 3 exposed walls with large double hung windows; aluminum storms on all. What I do is put about 2-2 1/2 inches of soil mix (2 parts peat, 1 part each of perlite & course sand/gravel) into 8X4 inch 4 inches deep self-watering pots. I water it well so that it's nice and wet without being a swamp. Pat it down gently. Then I sprinkle the impatiens seed on top and cover with *very* thin covering of sand pile sand. Finally I put a covering of plastic food wrap over the top of the pot. The soil level should be well down inside the pot so that there's plenty of head room. I then put the pot/s back from the west windows about 12-18 inches. They get sun, but not super intense. It warms the pots during the day. The wrap and distance from the windows seems to keep them from cooling too much at night to keep them from sprouting. I don't remove the plastic wrap until the seedlings are threatening to push it off. Until then I just keep an eye on them to make sure they're not drying out. Here I tend to only need to water about every two weeks if they're still small, and *maybe* once a week if they're larger and still covered with wrap. When I water I make sure the plastic is tight again over the top of the pots. I didn't wait long enough this last spring to remove the wrap, and they really suffered. I lost a lot of the small plants and the larger ones really slowed down in growth. So the humidity and/or the temperature regulation that it provides must be important. I normally start them some time in March, usually after the middle. The room isn't heated above 60 degrees at night. This is just what I do. I'll offer it for anyone who wants to try next spring.

whoops... one last step... I put a very light light dusting of orchard spray powder on top of the last sand layer to discourage damping off. It's the general orchard powder that's usually mixed with water to spray fruit trees. I use it dry instead.