I have used the white plastic knives and the Elmers paint pens mediun tip. I have some 3 years old and they have stood up to this blistering Texas sun quite well. In fact the lettering is still fine but some of the knives have become brittle and break easily and some have not but i did not track the brand or where I purchased them.

If you use these you need to wash completely, using a scotchbrite rub hard to remove oil and rough up the surface for the paint, and dawn dish detergent (also after a nasty cut I first using the kitchen stove melt the cutting edge slightly) then wash. Once washed do not touch the area where you will paint. If you get beading of the paint you did not scrub hard enough I fold the scotchbrite and slide the knife back and forth a dozen times then rinse and let air dry. Also use Dawn it is the best at removing oils and I use plain no scent.

NOW I am using the metal roof edging (1 X 2 inches) and cut it into 4 inch pieces with a metal blade on my circular saw then I grind the edges to remove the points. I drill 2 holes in the narrow side and then I dip it in Rustoleum white paint and let it dry. My neighbor replaced a wood fence and the boards were there I cut each one in half longwise and then made 3 stakes from each half. I write on these with the paint pen and while this is just my first year they are holding up fine. You do need an asortment of tools so it may not work well for everyone. I happened to have what I needed and just purchased the cutting blades and they were inexpensive. Also use galvanized nails so there is no rust.

Bill

I have used the white plastic knives and the Elmers paint pens mediun tip. I have some 3 years old and they have stood up to this blistering Texas sun quite well. In fact the lettering is still fine but some of the knives have become brittle and break easily and some have not but i did not track the brand or where I purchased them.

If you use these you need to wash completely, using a scotchbrite rub hard to remove oil and rough up the surface for the paint, and dawn dish detergent (also after a nasty cut I first using the kitchen stove melt the cutting edge slightly) then wash. Once washed do not touch the area where you will paint. If you get beading of the paint you did not scrub hard enough I fold the scotchbrite and slide the knife back and forth a dozen times then rinse and let air dry. Also use Dawn it is the best at removing oils and I use plain no scent.

NOW I am using the metal roof edging (1 X 2 inches) and cut it into 4 inch pieces with a metal blade on my circular saw then I grind the edges to remove the points. I drill 2 holes in the narrow side and then I dip it in Rustoleum white paint and let it dry. My neighbor replaced a wood fence and the boards were there I cut each one in half longwise and then made 3 stakes from each half. I write on these with the paint pen and while this is just my first year they are holding up fine. You do need an asortment of tools so it may not work well for everyone. I happened to have what I needed and just purchased the cutting blades and they were inexpensive. Also use galvanized nails so there is no rust.

Bill

I have used the white plastic knives and the Elmers paint pens mediun tip. I have some 3 years old and they have stood up to this blistering Texas sun quite well. In fact the lettering is still fine but some of the knives have become brittle and break easily and some have not but i did not track the brand or where I purchased them.

If you use these you need to wash completely, using a scotchbrite rub hard to remove oil and rough up the surface for the paint, and dawn dish detergent (also after a nasty cut I first using the kitchen stove melt the cutting edge slightly) then wash. Once washed do not touch the area where you will paint. If you get beading of the paint you did not scrub hard enough I fold the scotchbrite and slide the knife back and forth a dozen times then rinse and let air dry. Also use Dawn it is the best at removing oils and I use plain no scent.

NOW I am using the metal roof edging (1 X 2 inches) and cut it into 4 inch pieces with a metal blade on my circular saw then I grind the edges to remove the points. I drill 2 holes in the narrow side and then I dip it in Rustoleum white paint and let it dry. My neighbor replaced a wood fence and the boards were there I cut each one in half longwise and then made 3 stakes from each half. I write on these with the paint pen and while this is just my first year they are holding up fine. You do need an asortment of tools so it may not work well for everyone. I happened to have what I needed and just purchased the cutting blades and they were inexpensive. Also use galvanized nails so there is no rust.

Bill

What I use in the commerical beds are DecoColor by Marvy, a black paint pen, you get at stores like Michaels or on Ebay or the internet. Used now for 10 years. Only have to redo about every 3 or more years.

D

Paint pens are good, just make sure it is black. For some reason blue ones don't last. I mostly use grease pencils.

It helps too to take pics of the beds in bloom, so you can actually see where they are located. Drawing diagrams are also good in the event a name escapes you.

Also having a list somewhere (I've been putting things on Google Documents so they won't get misplaced, or lost in the event of a computer crash)of all your named cultivars. Then it is just a matter of matching the bloom up to the list of names.

Years ago I went with the zinc plant markers (bought on line) and one of the Brother P-Touch labeling machines (also bought on line) and the tapes (bought cheaply on Ebay).

Since I collect a lot of different plant varieties, I never plant anything before having the tag printed and marker ready to put in at planting time.
I see the markers and labeler as a great investment in keeping the names with named things. The labels are easily read too from a standing position, in case someone asks what the name is...which happens often.

Sue

I recently read of someone using bumper sticker paper with a laser printer. She sprayed it with an acrylic and said it's still good after 3 years. And she lives in a stormy winter zone.

You can take and print all weather labels and put on something and they last along time. Black is the only color to use. If it does not have to be dark just for you then use a number 2 peancil and chart chart chart

D

I use cut-up aluminum cans and write the name with a ball-point pen. I spray-paint the "Diet A&W" side with dark-brown matte paint.
Renee

thanks everyone....i tried sharpie and nail polish and the name peeled right off so now im trying pencil crayon and nail polish......does anyone know anything about a place you can go on the web that can map your own garden....like a template or something ....or even a website....thanks for all your responses....trully rita

I use cheap window blinds with a paint pen, holds up well and the cost is very low

I buy the metal name label, the short ones. I write the name on with a ball pen, deeply, so it's really scarred in there. Then I go over that with a fine Sharpie (black).

The Sharpie ink eventually wears off, but the name is still gouged into the metal so it's not lost. I can refresh the Sharpie ink if I have one with me when messing around out there.

And I do all this before going out to plant. So the label is ready to stick in the ground with the rhizome/bulb, etc.

I use two different methods on my metal stakes. I use a metal engraver to engrave the name permanently on some markers. I also use a "Listo Pencil" with black lead "more like a crayon". Sharpies and permanent markers fade in the sun.

How about some of these?

Kind of pricey, but if they last a very long time it might be worth it.

Here is a link that might be useful: garden markers

I've used both C-Cap style and E-Rose Markers listed at the link below. I much prefer the E style as the C style will come loose from the wires. The E style can't come off as it is threaded through the wires.

Not bad prices either, considering they have free shipping.

Sue

Here is a link that might be useful: Pics and prices of Paw Paw Everlast Labels

I second the recommendation for Paw Paw. They advertise in the AIS Bulletin, they're reasonably priced, and they're the only labels I buy, now.

The cap style can lose their tops, but the rose markers (what I use) last pretty much forever. I've yet to see one that was unusable after years of exposure to 100+ summers and -20 winters.

I use the laminated P-Touch labels and I've yet to see one of those break down, either. My best friend in my iris club uses a model that let's her set the size, type out the info, and print them all through her computer.

All that said, most of my plants aren't labeled (they're mapped (electronic and hard copy). My desperate attempts to catch up with my iris wishlist get my meager/minuscule budget's priority. When I can afford it, all my plants will be marked with Paw Paw rose markers and P-Touch labels.

Now, if I could just find a way to get around the MI sales tax! lol I've passed the Paw Paw exit on the highway more times than I can count.