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Pruner sharpening

Posted by Skyridgegarden z5 MO (My Page) on
Mon, Aug 1, 05 at 8:33

What is your favorite way of sharping your pruners and shears?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Pruner sharpening

1" abrasive belt grinder followed by a hand hone.


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RE: Pruner sharpening

I use a small inexpensive fine stone. I don't remember what model they were, but they were under $20 from Hida. I wash the pruners with a soap with pumice in it (can I say Lava brand?) and a plastic or teflon scrubber pad until all residue is removed. If it is really nasty pine pitch, I use WD 40 to remove it, then wash it all off with the bar soap ( I use baby-wipes on saw blades). After it is rinsed really well, I take my time with the "soaking wet" stone to remove any burs, then restore the bevel opposite the hook blade. I run fine emery (spelling?) cloth or steel wool over the hook blade and inside of the cutting blade (steel wool doesn't travel well and doesn't like water. When I am happy, I rinse it all again, dry very well, and spray with camelia oil. If you let it sit out over night, the camelia oil seems to mostly disappear into the metal.

On domestic pruners line Felco's, I also use lithium grease in the pivot joint pocket after too many soapings. On both styles, just don't wait too long to correct damage, and don't be in a hurry when correcting. Just like a cut tree branch, you can't put metal back!

Shears are usually easier, but lots more surface to clean and sharpen. The soaping and camelia oil removes most of the sap. Come to think of it, I wipe the camelia oil off the shear blades and this helps remove residue. Shears don't usually need major sharpening if you don't use them where you should be using another tool. Careful use of a sharpening steel, while paying close attention to the bevel angle will keep them cutting clean. If you have to hit them harder, use a leather or the like to remove burs on the bypass side before you close them to test! I spray the handles with camelia oil if I can let them sit for a month.

Every once in a while, clean the heck out of your tools and treat them to a good oiling. If they have a bolt pivot, reomve it and clean really good on all surfaces. If the rivet pivot is weak and can't be tightened anymore, consider replacing it with a bolt, spring washer, and nut. It's kind of like washing your car - it just seems to run better : )

After putting this all in writing, I am feeling guilty about my neglected tools!


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RE: Pruner sharpening

Good advice so far, I clean and use a sharpening stone after each use of my pruners and take my saws to a pro to be sharpened. I use a spray bottle with alcohol and spray them with that after pruning each individual plant to keep from spreading disease. This also helps keep them clean.

Cheers Jando


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RE: Pruner sharpening

Excellent Jando. A clean stone is important. A dirty one is useless!


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RE: Pruner sharpening

I use a wet stone, followed by a honing with those plastic/metal hones impregnated with diamond dust.


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RE: Pruner sharpening

I heard about a guy from Japanesetools.com who was touring the country giving sharpening workshops. I think he's operating out of woodworking stores.


 
 

 

 


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