| Chipping in from bonsai again (hope you don’t mind) but there is no real difference (only scale), as George probably knows, between training a 15 ft tall pine and a 2 ft tall one when it comes to growth control. Though for a final image or shape it’s of course much easier to wire a 2 ft tree into shape than it is "bending" a 15 footer. However, I think it should be possible to style your tree to give a windswept image. To compact shape and build up foliage pads you combine pruning branches back to a fork in late winter with candle pinching and shoot selection in spring and late summer, although as far as bonsai is concerned exactly how to do what and when can be a "hot topic" on occasion. These actions are designed to force budding further back on the branch to stop that "bare branch with a pom pom of needles at the end " effect.. Always leave viable buds on the branch or it may die. A good idea is to sketch down your ideas based on what the tree has to offer . i.e. general trunk direction and utilising major branch placement as you can’t magic up a 3ft long branch just where you need it all of a sudden The biggest factor to overcome is most pine’s tendency to grow radiating "wheel spoke" branches at intervals up the trunk . There’s a link below to a rather "arty" photo of a tree in Oregon. It’s called "windswept" but probably isn’t strictly speaking with that ramrod straight trunk. More probably had one side burned off in a forest fire or broken off from a near neighbour being felled. Now that this tree has been isolated and exposed to the winds by logging (probably), only the branches have taken on a windswept look. The trunk looks hurricane proof! Compare it to the genuine article. http://www.papillonsartpalace.com/TREE_WINDSWEPT_FROM_COSTA_RICAN_DESERT.jpg So perhaps consider reducing the height to the 3rd ? branch whorl up (just above the fence line) and inducing a lean using thin wire rope and a screw-in eye anchored to a sturdy point. (disguise the wire with a clematis or similar, they grow along my clothes line just fine – 2 inches a day sometimes) Prune off the branches on the " windward" side maybe leaving a few damaged stubs as evidence of wind action then select branches to retain on the leeward side. You could even leave a branchless stub at the top of the tree, strip the bark and tear bits off it like it had been broken off ( called a "jin") Now how all of this would fit in with the concept of a Japanese garden I couldn’t tell you. I can email you virtual image of what I mean. Once again, hope you don’t mind me chipping in with my 2c worth. |