I have recently returned from Japan, where I was fortunate to have 9 days in Kyoto. I had last been there in 1993 and did not expect to get back there, but so I did. It was quite interesting to see the changes in the time elapsed, especially as I have been so affected by my experiences with the gardens and temples there. I would advise anyone thinking of going to plan to visit the most popular gardens and temples on weekdays, and the earlier the better. I took my son to Ryoanji on a Saturday afternoon and the crush of people was suffocating, making it impossible to experience the garden meaningfully. I went back alone, at 8 00 am on a Tuesday morning. Hardly anyone was there, and the intensity of the garden was in full force. I realized that being alone pondering the "view" was essential to having a specific type of experience that seems consciously intended by the creators of these spaces. I had been to Ryoanji twice before and never experienced it like this.

I studied the gardens now with an eye and mind that is familiar with them. The gravel indeed seemed to be just like the turkey grit you find at local feed stores. It was comforting, in a way, to realize how easily available this prime component of raked sand gardens is to anyone wishing to venture into creating one. It also was quite apparent how labor intensive these gardens are, how much they benefit from being framed by the environments they are in, as well as how much they borrow from the scenery around them . Decidious landscapes do not make for karansui "friendly" worlds. I have found that creating small framed gravel gardens makes for an easier garden experience, especially if they are contained in a larger Japanese type of garden, like a viewing or walking garden .

Moss seems to be magically rampant in Kyoto. It is everywhere and shows up like a theme that keeps appearing in an ongoing improvised piece of music that is always playing . I realized how much a part of the gardens it is, so much so that it is easy to take for granted . It does seem that there is a reason that the gardens of Japan have evolved as they have, as nature seems to have blessed that part of the world with the right humidty, temperature, etc. to allow things like moss and specific trees and plants to flourish happily.

I braved a cable car ropeway to the top of Mt. Misen on Myajima. Arriving at the top I was spellbound and completely unprepared for the breathtaking views of the Inland Sea. As I stood gazing at the 11 islands scattered in the water, I was able to see quite clearly just how much the rock temple gardens reflect just such views, and how ingeniously they have been created to mimic the scale of island mountains in relation to the water around them. This proved to be a transforming experience in how I now see these gardens.

If you are thinking of going, do not let anyone dissuade you by telling you Kyoto is ruined by tourists. There are pitfalls that can easily be avoided by scheduling visits to popular spots at unpopular times. If a day brings some light rain and cloudiness, it makes for a great time to visit the gardens as the crowds tend to shrink, and the plants, mosses, and rocks seem to come to life. There are a number of gardens undergoing renovation . This can make for a diminished experience . Such was the case , for example, at Ginkakuji. Also, some areas of certain gardens that were accessible when I was there before, are now closed to visitors. In addition, I found at some place , like Daisen in, photos are now not allowed as they were in the early 90's. I considered it a stroke of good luck that I was able to take so many pictures previously . But these new hindrences do not impede the overall experience that Kyoto offers. It retains its special character as far as I can tell. I do not know of any other place where you can sit in a Starbucks, looking out of large windows at the Kamo river, drinking a cup of coffee and watching herons, egrets, and crows splashing and walking in the shallow water just below you, quite undisturbed by people young and old exercising, walking, and biking. Then you look up at the bridge crossing the river filled with the bustle of people going about their busy day and notice the mountains all around you everywhere you look, as well as a lone monk standing motionless holding his begging bowl and chanting his never ending song.

If anyone is thinking of going , I am glad to share any help I can from my experiences from visiting three times now. I would encourage anyone interested in Japan's gardens to go, as it will transform your thoughts and feelings I am quite sure.