I only put about a liter of water a week and I haven't ever fed them.

I live in a coastal area though and the I assume that the soil absorbs some water from the air and fog though. Everything here is covered in condensation at night.

They multiply like rabbits given a few years so a cluster look can be yours if you are patient. Or just buy 3-5 to begin with.

The downside is they have no fragrance.

I'm in 5a as well. I can't address the dry issue. We have too much water. Lilies actually like it drier than what I can offer.

You can see my 64 types in my photobucket album. There is a link from my post here at GW on this page. This will show you the actual color, height, etc.
Your first year lilies will be shorter. After that they grow the more "normal height'

:) K

Suggested so far have been hybrid types.

Easy soecies are
Lilium lancifolium
Lilium regale
Lilium formosanum
Lilium speciosum
Lilium davidii
Lilium henryi

L. auratum var. platyphyllum
L. canadense
L. cernuum
L. hansonii
L. henryi
L. leichtlinii
L. nepalense
L. pumilum
L. regale
L. regale album
L. speciosum album
L. speciosum Uchida

I believe they are all hardy to Zone 5. (BTW, I do have L. Regale too)
Here is the link for same website (for species)

In this article I will attempt to outline the methods of germination used by the various Lilium species I have grown. Obviously it will not be all-inclusive, as I have not grown every species. As well, the time period from date of planting to germination will be given. This time period however, can vary a lot from one planting to another, as many factors have an effect on the seed's ability to germinate in a timely fashion. Some of these factors are: condition of seed; age of seed if it has not been kept frozen after proper drying; moisture (too much or too little); temperatures; method of planting. Most lilies need an acidic based soil. Those that need an alkaline based soil are identified as such in the various lists. When reviewing this article please keep in mind that the information comes from growing lilies in my soil (high humus, well drained) and climatic conditions (zone 1, Canadian scale).

The following species germinate as immediate epigeal and produce their cotyledon over the time frames given. There will be a few seeds in almost every seed lot that germinate slower than these time frames. As a rule with immediate epigeal germinating lilies, the first true leaf will emerge about 4 weeks after the cotyledon. Most epigeal germinating lilies will flower the second year from the time they are planted out. Where they do so otherwise, they are marked accordingly.

L. amabile and its varieties - 8 to 20 days - I have trouble with this one and can not figure out why. Alkaline soil required.
L. callosum - 15 to 30 days - I have been unable to flower this lily as it emerges too late in the season to flower in my growing environment.
L. candidum - 12 to 25 days - Yet to flower.
L. catesbaei - some of its seeds will germinate at room temperatures in 20 to 25 days, other seeds need temperatures of +10C for 30 to 40 days. Yet to flower.
L. cernuum and its variety alba - 10 to 30 days. About 75 percent of L. cernuum seedlings will go dormant without putting up a true leaf. When this happens they must be given a cold period.
L. concolor and its varieties - 12 to 35 days. Alkaline soil required for good performance but it will tolerate an acidic soil.
L. davidii and its varieties - 12 to 20 days.
L. duchartrei - 10 to 30 days - Yet to flower.
L. fargessii - 65 to 85 days with cold nights and warm days, without the temperature fluctuations they will not germinate (for me).
L. formosanum - 21 to 28 days. Yet to flower.
L. formosanum variety pricei - 18 to 25 days, flowers from seed within 9 months.
L. henryi - 60 to 75 days. Fresh seeds may germinate faster. 4 years to first flower.
L. lancifolium - 10 to 17 days.
L. lankongense - 15 to 35 days.
L. lophophorum - 12 to 30 days. Yet to flower.
L. mackliniae - 20 to 50 days. Yet to flower.
L. maculatum (Wilsonii) and variety flavum - 15 to 35 days. 3 years to first flower.
L. maculatum v. monticola - 25 to 35 days. 3 years to first flower.
L. maculatum variety davuricum - 40 to 90 days. Flowers in its second year.
L. majoense - 14 to 25 days. Yet to flower.
L. nanum and its variety flavidum - 15 to 20 days. I have trouble keeping these seedlings alive longer then the first two weeks. To date I have only managed to keep three seedlings alive long enough to plant them out and that is over four years of attempts. 4 years to first flower.
L. oxypetalum and its variety insigne - 10 to 25 days. Yet to flower.
L. papilliferum - 8 to 15 days. Yet to flower. These go dormant without sending up a true leaf. If they aren't given a cold period at that time, the bulblets will be lost.
L. philadelphicum - 12 to 25 days. It is best to freeze these seeds for at least two weeks prior to planting. L. philadelphicum has a way of holding back seed germination of some of its seeds until they have undergone a freeze/thaw cycle. Some will germinate without being frozen some will not, however all the viable seeds will germinate once frozen then thawed. Alkaline soil required, 4 years to first flower.
L. philippinense - 20 to 30 days. Flowers from seed within 10 months.
L. pumilum and strains - 9 to 14 days. The same year they are planted out they will flower, that is within 9 to 10 months from seed.
L. regale - 12 to 30 days, flowers in its third year.
L. rosthornii - 22 to 60 days. L. rosthornii seeds will germinate faster if exposed to light. However, during their first year the seeds that are not exposed to light once germinated will outgrow those that were germinated by being exposed to light. L. rosthornii seeds need more moisture then the average immediate epigeal seed to germinate well. Flowers in its second year.
L. sargentiae - 25 to 35 days. 2 years to first flower.
L. sulphureum - 8 to 20 days. Yet to flower.
L. taliense - 10 to 20 days. Alkaline soil required, yet to flower.
L. taliense variety (nick name only) kaichen 20 to 30 days. Alkaline soil required. Yet to flower.
L. wallichianum - 20 to 35 days. Alkaline soil required, yet to flower.
L. wardii - 20 to 30 days. Yet to flower

The following species seeds germinate as delayed epigeal, with some anomalies between the type and the varieties. These lilies are in my opinion the hardest ones to germinate.

L. leichtlinii - I have had little to no success with this lilies seeds. Having germinated only two seeds after 63 days then I lost the seedlings. I have tried some again this year (13 seeds) 11 of them germinated within 15 days as immediate epigeal so I doubt they will prove to be L. leichtlinii.

L. leichtlinii variety Maximowiczii - The majority of these varieties seeds germinate as immediate epigeal in 17 to 30 days. The few that don't germinate as immediate epigeal can be given a cold period of 3 months or so then planted out where they will germinate and sprout their cotyledon the following year. 2 years to first flower.

L. pyrenaicum - I have found that a few seeds will germinate within 60 days after being frozen for a couple of weeks, but the majority will not. After a three month incubation period at temperatures around 15C I give the seeds and germinated bulblets a three month period at +2C. Then plant them out, germinated or not. The ones that had germinated will sprout their cotyledon shortly after being planted out. The rest that are viable will sprout their cotyledon the following spring. Thus they germinate through the summer or early spring, it seems like this lily's seeds may require two cold periods before they will properly germinate and sprout their cotyledon. Alternatively after the 3 month cold period hold at +10C and they will germinate in about 40 days. Yet to flower.

The following species seeds germinate as immediate hypogeal and will sprout their first true leaf within the time frames given.

L. brownii - 60 to 90 days. Yet to flower.
L. bukozanense - 20 to 35 days. Yet to flower.
L. dauricum - 25 to 35 days. 2 years to first flower
L. dauricum variety alpinum - 12 to 25 days. 1 year to first flower.

The following species seeds are immediate hypogeal cool germination. They will sprout their first true leaf about 60 to 80 days after the seed has germinated and the bulblet is well formed. They should not be potted up until the true leaf has sprouted and a root system has at least started to develop. Sometimes the true leaf will grow and the root system has not, when this happens they have to be potted up or the seedling will be lost for sure. However when this happens you can also expect to lose the majority of the seedlings that have sprouted the true leaf without developing a root system prior to or at the same time the leaf sprouts.
The species with this type of germination which I have grown will germinate as follows. None of these species have grown in my gardens long enough to flower from seed.

L. columbianum - 30 to 60 days. About 50% of this lilies seeds may actually germinate as delayed hypogeal. If they have not sprouted a true leaf within 4 months of planting give them a cold period. In fact if after 4 months they aren't given a cold period the bulblets that aren't sprouting a true leaf will simply disappear.
L. humboldtii - 30 to 60 days.
L. kelloggii - 35 to 90 days.
L. pardalinum - 30 to 75 days.
L. parryi - 45 to 80 days.
L. parvum - 30 to 60 days. Same as L. columbianum.
L. pitkinense - 30 to 60 days.
L. rubescens - 40 to 80 days.
L. washingtonianum 40 to 75 days.

The following species lilies are delayed hypogeal germination. They will sprout their first true leaf only after a 3 month cold period. The true leaf will be put up within a three week period from the time the bulblet is planted out. It is well worth watching these seeds on a regular basis as some may germinate as immediate hypogeal and the very odd one as immediate epigeal. The species with this type of germination which I have grown will germinate as follows. The ones that have flowered for me from seed are marked the rest have yet to flower.

L. bulbiferum - 30 to 40 days. 3 years to first flower
L. bulbiferum variety croceum - 30 to 40 days with about 30 percent of the seeds from most seed lots germinating as immediate hypogeal. 3 years to first flower.
L. canadense and its varieties - 40 to 60 days. 6 years to first flower.
L. carniolicum v. jankae - 50 to 70 days. (may be delayed epigeal)
L. ciliatum - 40 to 60 days. (may be delayed epigeal)
L. hansonii - 25 to 35 days with the odd seed germinating as immediate hypogeal. 5 to 6 years to first flower.
L. japonicum and its varieties - 25 to 50 days.
L. ledebourii - 40 to 60 days.
L. martagon and its varieties - 14 to 30 days. Many L. martagon seed lots from the same pod will have seeds that will germinate as immediate hypogeal as well as delayed. They are well worth watching for as they out grow their siblings substantially. Martagons will even produce the odd seed that germinates as immediate epigeal. It prefers a slightly alkaline to neutral soil but will manage in a slightly acidic soil. 4 to 5 years to first flower.
L. michiganense - 40 to 60 days. 6 years to first flower.
L. monadelphum - 30 to 40 days. Some of these can be forced into immediate epigeal if they are potted up, with the cotyledon exposed to light, a couple weeks after germination. It is hardly worth it as the losses are high. These seedlings although delayed hypogeal have long cotyledons thus I had to try and force them into an epigeal growing pattern.
L. szovitsianum - 30 to 80 days.
L. tsingtauense - 25 to 35 days. 5 to 6 years to first flower.

Oriental hybrids will germinate as delayed hypogeal.

Most trumpet hybrids will germinate as immediate epigeal.

Most Asiatic hybrids will germinate as immediate epigeal.

There are a few exceptions with Asiatic hybrids that are not very far removed from L. bulbiferum or L. dauricum as a parent. These hybrids can germinate as immediate epigeal, immediate hypogeal or delayed hypogeal. I've had all three germination types from the same seed lot. Two examples of such lily hybrids are Mahogany and L. x Hollandicum.

Uchida is indeed a species lily. It is a selection from the L. speciosum var. rubrum gene pool. Its proper name then is:
Lilium speciosum var. rubrum 'Uchida'

Scarlet Delight is not a true species. It is a tetraploid (not natural in the species it is derived from) and is speciosum backross of a speciosum/henryi hybrid. Nonetheless, a very nice near species cultivar.

I find that Ivillage has decided to disallow my option to open an attached link in these posts to another tab. Being on dial up, this is time even more time consuming, and extremely annoying. I see also they have remove the ability to post a link with a post as a work around to this problem. Even more annoying.

I was hopeful when I saw the "By submitting this message, I acknowledge..." before I post, that they came to their senses and changed their "Rights in content" section of their Terms of Use to fall in line with other online forums, i.e. no longer claiming the right to sell photos or other content we post. Sadly, they nave not. Just be aware, everyone, that you have absolutely no recourse should they decide to do this, nor are they required to notify you of such use of your photos.

Rick