I have not done any summer maple grafting but I have done a lot during winter and early spring so I am curious about what you plan to do.

What type of graft are you planning to use?

Have you considered layering instead?

-=beeky

Beeky,
I am not sure what kind of graft I will be doing yet. Is side veneer not possible in the summer? I have heard budding is better but not much feedback from most posts I have seen about it. Anyone have a link that talks more about summer grafting?

I have considered the air layer. I don't have many trees that I can stand to lose a brach from. Most of my JM's are small, 1st year grafts except for 6 of them. I wanted to do grafting since I have about 15 root stock ready for a "trial" run on summer grafting. I suppose scions don't take well in the summer?

Anyway, I have all the materials yet still searching for information.

Matt

I think chip budding is your best bet for summer.
I have never chip budded maples nor have I done chip budding in the summer. I've chip budded Magnolias in spring with moderate success.

The problem that faces you with summer grafting is the short lifespan of the scion.
The scion is own its' own until there is some healing of the graft and the tissues of the stock plant have joined with those of the scion and the scion is being supplied with moisture and nutrients by the stock.

The scion has to live long enough for this union to occur. The dormant scion in winter can live a very long time. It has stored food and no leaves to lose moisture. A scion taken in the summer is just the opposite.

Look into chip budding or plan to graft next winter.

The layering I was referring to was traditional layering not air layering. If you can bend a branch down to the ground you can do a layer. Maples layer pretty well so the chances of success are good but the process takes at least one growing season.

Hope this helps,
-=beeky

Matt, Ive done summer grafting and been rather lucky at it.Since i dont have a green house or automatic mister, i wet the inside of a plastic bag and slip it over the scion, and secure it around the understock with a twisty tie. Alot of times ive used bags and ties bread comes in. This seems to work well for keeping the union and scion moist enough,and protects the young graft from drying winds while the knitting is taking place. I wait till this years growth has hardened off before i do anything. AL

Beeky,
I don't think layering would be from me because I like to move my trees all the time and I am scared to try budding my first go round, might give it a shot next year. Thanks for the advice. One I get my trees in a permanant location, I will give that layering a try as well.

Al,
I have read that the optimal temp for summer grafting is fairly cool. You just stick them in a shady spot? I did find this article which you have probably seen. I think it confused me more because they show 3 methods for summer grafting.

Thanks for the responses.I think I am ready to give it a go come July.

Matt

Here is a link that might be useful: summer grafting

Matt, What a great link! I found it really interesting. I do know one thing, his graft would not make it in the summers here in MD. Not for me anyway.I have tried many times and without being in a controlled atmosphere while being misted or a bag to simulate such,to much moisture will be lost.For me a bag maintains conditions favorable to plant growth,thus increasing the percentage of success.Yes i provide heavy shade as well to prevent cooking by the heat build up inside the bag. I'll keep an open mind ,i'm always up for new ideas. It will be interesting to hear others weigh in on this. Thanks AL

Al,
Yea, I was thinking his method might only work in a humid yet cool environment with absoultely perfect cambium contact on a blue moon every leap year. I guess I will stick to the method you use because I am near you so we probably have almost identical conidtions. Let me know if you ever try this and have any luck though.
thanks,Matt

I have been trying to graft a black willow with scions of caprea willow, I tried it many times, and it is not taking. I blame the salix nigra as not being compatible with the caprea. Does anyone out there know what rootstock should I be using to make this a success? Please reply to my email as I don't frequent these forums. Thank you

I'm trying summer grafting for the first time too. The tips I've gotten so far:

1.) SCIONS must be from trees without any active growth.
2.) Understock needs to be somewhat dried out so it won't bleed.
3.) New grafts need to be cool for 2 weeks. I plan on bringing all 100 of them into an airconditioned space.
4.) Use plastic bags over grafts to preserve humidity.