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anderson_dc

Red Maple (Acer Rubrum)

anderson_dc
13 years ago

We planted a 2.5" trunk diameter red maple in our yard this past April.

Information

-Zone 5a (Central Iowa)

-Native soil is clay, but not real hard packed

-Our trees were purchased from a tree farm about 4 miles from our house

-The tree was spaded in

-Its kind of hard to judge the new growth but there is a lot of leaves on the tree

-About every 2-3 weeks around the drip line i will slow drip 5 gallons of water mixed with a plant start fertilizer (3-10-3 with rooting hormone and some other goodies) and after that i will slow drip another 5 gallons of water. It takes about 15-20 mins for the 5 gallons to empty.

-Ive also used a Ross root feeder and watered around the drip line about 12" down in the soil on the weeks that im not slow dripping the 10 gallons of water.

-As of late i havent been able to do this since we've had quite a bit of rain the past 3 weeks and the soil is already moist enough.

Questions:

-Is there anything i need to do differently or in addition to what im already doing?

-I havent mulched yet. When i do, how far from the trunk should i extend the mulch?

-Do red maples prefer a wet, moist, or dry soil?

Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated and thanks!

Comments (7)

  • musicalperson
    13 years ago

    answers:
    1.) cease & desist w/ fertilizer, root stimulator & "goodies".
    2.) The farther the better. Keep mulch at least 6" away from the trunk tho.
    3.) Moist, well drained is best. Will tolerate periods of wet soil and flooding.

  • gardener365
    13 years ago

    You're right on schedule brother... Red Maple does not mind moisture, at all. If you can for the greatest success, bring your hose out to the tree and rest it a few inches from the trunk and let the water slowly trickle for a 1/2 hour or an hour, once a week or once every two weeks. There's absolutely nothing wrong with your Ross stuff every month or whatever the label calls for. Nothing wrong at all. You keep this schedule for a couple years and then when and if summers become extremely dry of rain, bring the hose out again, once-monthly. Let it trickle for at least and hour or more. It is recommended to cease fertilization at the second week of August in our climate because fertilizer past this point only promotes soft-tissued, shoot - that are not hardened off when winter comes around. There would be absolutely nothing wrong with using your fertilizer/hormones a few weeks prior to winter (say the second week of Nov. - Dec.). This sort of fertilization will go directly to the roots and give the tree a boost for the following year. There are a ton of theories about correct techniques.... and I've been around for a while. Mulch, keep it an inch or two away from the trunk and keep it between 2" and 3" thick. Extend the mulch to the dripline or further (maybe this will help make mowing easier). Make a nice big circle, that's what I do.

    Take Care & Best of luck,

    Dax

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    13 years ago

    anderson_dc,

    You seem to be doing well. I like the way you're watering at the drip line. When my small transplants aren't showing signs of stress I always do this to encourage the roots to grow out of the planting hole.

    I am of the opinion fertilizer is generally a bad idea for permanent plantings. IF for no other reason than "what if the fertilizer is necessary to keep the tree alive in your yard. You going to keep fertilizing the thing when its 40 foot tall and wide"? Also, what if your yard needs 10-3-10? Anyone test the soil?

  • gardener365
    13 years ago

    You don't need a soil test, you're in Iowa, forget it. Continue what you're doing and break a few "rules" that are the norm for most folks to write about. It's almost like the plague to use organics or in-organics anymore and you will be criticized always. It's so annoying to hear the stock answer "don't use fertilizer, have you had a soil test."

    This is Red Maple, gimmie a break. It could grow in a pail of water, ya know what I'm saying?

    Dax

  • anderson_dc
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Is there a good way to tell the difference between the different cultivars of red maples?

  • krycek1984
    13 years ago

    I like your post, Dax.

  • musicalperson
    13 years ago

    If it can grow in a pail of water, what do you need fertilizer for?
    The reason folks get so upset when they hear about the use of fertilizer, is because the fertilizer was sold as a remedy to a problem that it cannot fix.

    All the fertilizer in the world isn't going to help a tree that has girdling roots or was poorly sited.

    We need more "fertilizer and other goodies" released into the watershed like we need a hole in the head so unless it's absolutely necessary, save your money.

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