If winters not too cold there, resulting in roots freezing some time might be able to keep it going on your roof for quite a few years by cutting it back to a low framework periodically. This would serve both to control size and to keep lots of coral-colored growth down low where it makes a nice display. Otherwise as the tree develops you will end up with smaller red young shoots dispersed over unattractive grayish mature wood; ironically the non-red mature bark of this cultivar seems to be unusually drab.

Note that despite the recurring use of this term in reference to their behavior trees do not adapt. Each specimen comes with certain environmental parameters it can tolerate, and which it will not live well outside of. You have to accommodate the tree, it will not change to suit your purposes.

Thank you- I did not know about the bark turning grey. I will cut it back so that it's under the umbrella.

I would do this at end of winter, and probably not every year. And I was talking about pruning it down low, close to the trunk so that most of what you see later is young stems. I would not cut it back up high in the air, or this late in the growing season. You want it to have the whole spring and summer to grow replacement shoots.

Thanks for that- I have very little experience with pruning and am a neophyte with Japanese Maples. Although I have 2 others, they are the low-growing kind that spread, so I haven't had to, as of yet.

I have a Sango Kaku and I just wanted to note that new growth looks funny on this tree. The new leaves come out and they actually look contorted, but then eventually unfold gradually into their "normal" shape. Sometimes, the new growth is yellowish.... but is definitely different than windburned leaves.

You probably already know this, but I just wouldn't want you to cut away any new growth...
Tom