Spring delivery (I buy from Heritage Seedlings which is by far the best quality on the net) requires a purchase of 100 seedlings (about 100 bucks). Buy small plugs (1/8" calliper) and they go into pots (April/May delivery). Mid July through Mid August is prime time to graft.

Clip off the leaves on the scion/cutting but leave a 1/2" petiole where each leaf was. Remove the bottom leaves on your seedling rootstock so you have room to do the work. Use a rubber band or bud strip to secure the scion to the seedling understock and place a white plastic trash bag over the scion and understock tying it at the top and toss in the bag a wadded up damp paper towel. Then, place the plants/bags under a large shade tree (filtered light is best). The grafts knit in about 10-20 days. A successful graft will show new buds that pushed from under the petioles which you saved on the scion. If all is successful, you will have a plant that looks like this:

The petioles will turn black and fall off to expose the new bud that pushes below. This is a good thing. Ginkgo may be grafted the same way during the same time frame.

Here's a Ginkgo summer graft:

Your seedling understock -- I chop them to about a foot tall and you don't need many leaves on it. In fact no leaves are fine.

If you're desperate for seedlings and cannot wait, you'll pay a premium price for seedlings right now. Sooner Plant Farms is the only place I happen to know about. And winter grafting is not at all like summer grafting. Wax is needed among other various conditions being present within a greenhouse.

Best of luck/skill!

Dax

Schmoo

I can wait 5 years.

Schmoo, the wax is necessary for winter for all deciduous. Never heard differently. Plain old paraphin in a box or a can at your local hardware store for 4 bucks is all you need. It's best that a person uses an alternative heat source than their kitchen though (such as a portable camping stove). Cut one bar in half and add it to large pot of water and bring it up to 180F and then let it cool to 160F and give the scion only a quick dip but you have to work fast or the wax will cool. To reuse the wax the next day, punch a hole in the wax that hardened at the top of the water, remove old water and add new, start fresh...

Grafting requires high humidity that's why conifers are tented, i.e., and that's why deciduous trees/shrubs are hit with the wax. The scion must not dry up and in 6 to 8 weeks and the deciduous grafts are simply left in the greenhouse but not tented. A simple recipe really.

Dax

I know, I know.... not what you meant exactly!

Take care, have a good one.

Later on,

Dax

Have you ever played with the stuff "parafilm"(believe thats the name) on maples & other deciduous grafts? Sort of like a waxy-saran wrap. Have seen it used on maples at union (instead of a grafting strip) and even a bit more applied to sort of "tent" the graft (really only works best on smaller scions).
In propagation, every nursery is fairly unique...what works for you may not work for someone else generally speaking. While waxing is a tried and true method, there are way to many people...at least in Orygun...that found it is not the only way and stopped waxing years ago. Some have played and found there is more than one way to skin an avocado (sorry...I have cats).....

Cheers,
Schmoo

Forget the question I posted (but the comments are still valid). I ran across some older photo's of yours showing the use of parafilm.

Schmoo