are you disassembling it or just moving it? i bought a standing 12x72 hoophouse a few years back. i had to take it down, move it , and reassemble. i ran into a lot of rusted together parts and fasteners. it took way longer than i expected. are the ground posts in concrete? they may unmovable if they are. what does it cost for a new 26x72 frame?
if the price is really good and you have the time and its in good shape you already know the pay back is very fast and the growing space will be very productive. picture??

A new frame would cost about $7,000. This tunnel has been in this location for 5 years. He bought it used and moved it to this location. Actually I told him about this tunnel on Craigslist. I just don't remember how much he bought it for. The ground posts are not cemented in and he has a tractor to help pull them out. I would have to disassemble it, move it 20 miles and reassemble it. He said he would help take it down.

We moved ours on a long trailer that my son borrowed from a hay farmer.

I think you're going to need more ground soon, or the kids will not have any 'play' ground.

i would recheck the price of a frame. that sounds very high. my 26x48 was $4600 with everything except wood and doors. including film. good luck.

The actual tunnel would be $6,269 with $793 to ship it to me. Then I would have to add to that total new baseboards.

I shared a link to a the tunnel on Farmteks website.

About new ground, yes I would love that! I am going to replace one of my old homemade tunnels with this tunnel, it is bigger but I do have the space for it.

If I get it, I would plan to leave as much of the hoops together as possible. Maybe just splitting them into two pieces.

Jay

Here is a link that might be useful: Farmtek Link

Looked at it again, that price was for a Fabric cover, the Film cover package was $5705 plus 793 in shipping is about 6500 plus baseboard.

Jay

I wouldn't try taking one apart without my cordless impact driver and the correctly-sized deep well impact sockets, as well as some penetrating oil or mineral spirits. Having the right tools makes it go ten times faster. If feasible, I'd also go spray down the bolts with oil the day before I was going to take it apart so it could sit overnight, probably taking the plastic off first would be smart. You might also need a reciprocating saw to cut any bolts that are rusted or stripped badly enough.

I went down and looked at it in person and I went ahead and bought it, after some negotiating. I will be making some changes in the endwalls and hipboards, but I have plenty of lumber to do this with.

Now just need to find the time to get it taken down, moved and rebuilt. I am sure I could do it in less than a week, if I had full days to work on it. Only problem is I only have small chunks of time, may have to take some time off from school to make this happen in time to use it this early spring.

Jay

good luck jay and post pictures.

Days to disassemble? I was thinking hours. If by Farmtek, you mean Clearspan, mine is half that size, but I can turn it into a stack of pipes in an hour or two.

Regardless, good luck and congratulations on continuing to grow your already impressive operation.

Each rib has 4 or 5 parts. I am going to split the bows in to two parts, take off the purlins and take them down (not in that order). I hope it will go fast. If I have a helper or two, it sure would help. I am guessing with two cordless drills, a cordless impact driver and several ladders, it will be down in no time.

At my house I need to tear down one of my old tunnels, that I wasn't using this winter, pull all the posts, move some dirt around to make a more level pad (at least have it all sloping the same rate), and square up and add string lines to start driving ground posts.

Jay

do know that you cannot stretch the plastic if it is under 40F, it will be too stiff to work with well. Keep that in mind when you get to the point of putting the plastic on. Oh and the stiffer it is the looser it will be on the HT. We stretched ours when it was around 49F but the temps had fallen into the high 30's when we were ready for the wiggle wire and that meant the plastic was a bit loose. it turns out this was great when it got to be -15F as the plastic was tight as a drum head with the contraction.

I've only assembled one hoophouse and it is only 20 by 30. Remember that you will be drilling overhead to connect all the ribs to their cross braces/purlins. Heavy drill, overhead, a billion screws - job took forever.

Ours only had ribs and 3 cross braces, so far it's held up to 60-80 mph this winter. We need to redo doors, but the hoop has stayed nicely. Band boards all around the bottom.

Son had ours rebent (correctly, after it was damaged elsewhere) and installed (no film) in about 4 hrs with help from hubby. Amazing how quickly he can build one after building so many others for his former boss.