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grow_life

container irrigation

grow_life
9 years ago

Tomatoes are my cash crop, and I only have so much room to rotate plantings. After 3 years growing in basically the same spot, the disease buildup is becoming a problem. My solution is to grow all nightshades in containers next season. I have access to as many nursery containers as I need in any size. my plan is to roll out the black plastic, put the containers on that, fill with compost/media, and grow away.

My question comes down to irrigating the pots. Would t tape with pre-spaced emitters run along the top of the pots down the row work, or would it be better to run a distribution line with micro tubing to each individual pot? T tape would be easier/cheaper, but I wonder how hard it would be to secure it to the pots so it doesn't fall off. Plus, the per-spaced emitters may prove challenging to get the pot spacing to line up right so all the emitters are over a pot.

The rows are about 30-40 feet long, not sure of pot spacing yet, but will be about 50- 75 pots in production at any given time, with some succession planting through the season.

Comments (9)

  • jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)
    9 years ago

    I know a commercial tomato grower who started using these. He heats and grows tomatoes in a 26 by 198 foot high tunnel and outside. He had very good luck with them.

    Jay

    Here is a link that might be useful: GardenSoxx

  • randy41_1
    9 years ago

    microtubing would work best. you can just run a line to each pot. at the spacing you need. the t-tape doesn't have that flexibility.

  • jnjfarm_gw
    9 years ago

    My suggestion is to look up larry hall on youtube. he recently started a company called grow bag garden systems. his youtube channel has a wealth of info: rain gutter system, kiddie pool systems etc. The grow bags he sells are wonderful and cheap for the quality.

  • jnjfarm_gw
    9 years ago

    A quick follow up to my previous post. I used some of his ideas this past year. I found 3 dirt cheap kiddie pools and used the blue walmart bags in them. I had 5 plants growing in a 3' circle (mainly peppers and some tomatoes) I couldn't believe how they grew. I had to water daily but I got good results. this fall I grew some cabbage and brocilia in one gallon grow bags placed in a 22 quart clear plastic container like is used to take produce to market. I started seeds in the grow bag and had excellent results. I still have a couple plants in my hoop house. I had 5 cabbages in 220 square inches.
    I am going to try out growing in a kiddie pool in the hoop house this spring early and see what happens. I am expanding my market farm and this is one technique that doesn't require good soil. these can be setup on gravel or concrete. For best results, follow Larry Hall's directions and procedures. He invented the wheel and it doesn't need reinvented.

  • grow_life
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the advice. I figured tubing was probably the way to go for the pots. I may try a row of the garden socks. I have used those for mulch berms at work and they have held up along city sidewalks in full sun for 2 years now. FWIW, we used drain pipe sock which is the exact same thing as what gardensoxx sells, and you can get 100 feet of it for $30 from lowes vs. 50 feet for $50 from gardensoxx, it just doesn't come with the fancy cardboard ez filler you don't really need.

    I've seen the self watering systems with the rain gutters, thats just a bit more engineering than I care to get into right now. Those systems are cool, but it seems to me that since they still require being hooked up to a waterline or hand watered to maintain the reservoir levels, they aren't much different than irrigation lines with timers. Factoring in the cost of gutters, lumber, fastners, float valves, and time putting all that together, I just can't swing it. I've got the free nursery containers so thats why I'm designing a sysetem around pot production...er...container production.

  • cole_robbie
    9 years ago

    What disease problems? I'm in a similar climate, and we are far enough north to avoid most tomato disease, other than blight and those spread by soil fungal spores, which can be largely prevented with mulch.

  • grow_life
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    You name it, I've had it, even with a foot of straw mulch around the plants. The one I'm most trying to overcome is bacterial wilt. I lost a few plants last season, then this season I lost even more. I think I'm more or less out of luck in that garden for a while, because I lost a number of squash and some raspberries to what I think is Phythopthora, and my only area I can rotate to is right next to a Black Walnut. The whole area is ringed with other trees and the tree roots have realy enjoyed all the amendments, mulches, and irrigation I've been giving them over the years. I can hardly dig out there now from all the roots. My long term plan is trenching the perimeter to sever the roots, spend a few seasons growing in containers, and amending and cultivating the heck out of the soil to see If I can get ahead of things.

  • cole_robbie
    9 years ago

    Wow, sorry to hear that. I'm wondering if the tree roots are hosting the diseases for your plants.

    The last time I planned a container garden, I had picked out Dramm dribble rings as what I wanted for irrigation, but I still have not tried them yet.

  • dale92539 Riverside Co SoCal
    8 years ago

    Irrigation Methods for Containers

    Various methods are used for Irrigation of Containers from Handwatering, Micro Irrigation (drip,
    Plastic Bottles, Wicks etc) , Capillary methods (Sub Irrigation, Controlled
    Water Tables,Wick, Capillary Mat, Rain Gutter Wicking, Ollas, Methods based on
    Ollas Plant Nanny etc). Misc Article
    Links.

    https://ucanr.edu/repositoryfiles/ca1905p2-59128.pdf

    http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/greenhouse/nursery/environ/wmprinc.html

    http://www.treehugger.com/green-food/three-easy-low-tech-ways-to-keep-container-gardens-watered.html

    http://tipnut.com/garden-irrigation/

    http://basicgreen.osu.edu/sites/default/files/BG-140.pdf

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