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nordbyc

Sartell area

nordbyc
16 years ago

OK, I'm from SW minnesota where there is real black dirt.

I don't know what I got up here. Are there any apple trees

that will survive among the cedar apple rust?

Do these Chinese Elms survive long or are they a short lived pest. If I keep mowing this sumac will it die? Last question, what should I do to garden here?

I'm guessing a dump truck full of black dirt over this sand they call soil.

Comments (7)

  • Sue Brunette (formerly known as hockeychik)
    16 years ago

    You aren't originally from the Montevideo area are you? Used to live there and knew some Nordby's. Just checking. I'm a little south of where you are now. We seem to have a lot of clay in our soil. For that, I mix in peat. Not sure what you use for the sandy soil but I'm sure someone will respond.

  • nordbyc
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    nope, Camp Township, Renville County, before that a place called Norway !!!

  • hostaholic2 z 4, MN
    16 years ago

    I grew up in Royalton and amending that beach sand was a never ending job. Black dirt would be helpful, but be careful. If you get soil with lots of clay and you mix it with sand you get cement! Lots of peat moss and compost mixed in. I'm about a mile from the Renville Co. line and I do appreciate my good black dirt!

  • giantslug
    16 years ago

    Hello nordbyc, I am from the Marshall area.
    I grow Haralson, Wolf River and Zestar apples and have not had problems with cedar apple rust, even with redcedars nearby.
    Chinese elms (actually they are Siberian Elm, Ulmus pumila) will grow to a medium size tree and live for many years. I think they die from dutch elm disease occasionally. Use undiluted brush killer on freshly cut stumps in late summer and fall to kill Siberian elm.
    Sumac can be mowed several times a year and it will still grow back. Use herbicide if you really want to kill it, but keep in mind it is a important source of food for wildlife.
    If you are planning on having a vegetable or flower garden, tilling in lots of organic matter is the best way to improve your soil. Aged grass clippings, hay (without weed seeds), aged manure, fallen leaves, anything that you can get. If your soil it is really sandy it may help to add some loamy soil help it to hold more water, but adding a lot of organic matter will be just as effective. Also, have a soil test done to see what nutrients you may need to add.
    Here are a couple helpful links:
    U of M Soil Testing Lab http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/index.htm

    Disease Resistant Apple Varieties http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/index.htm

  • giantslug
    16 years ago

    Oops, the second link should be
    Disease Resistant Apple Varieties http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p244apple-diseaseresistant.html

  • Julie
    16 years ago

    Hey there Nordbyc-
    I live in the cities- but I also have sand for soil. I have found mixing in (double diggging) lots of compost- peat- green matter and manure has helped my soil to retain moisture and turn to a nice friable black rich thing to grow plants in.
    I try to top dress with more compost as I am able. The worms work at pulling it under and continue to improve the soil. The more I can add- the better the beds seem to be to grow in. And the result is instantly appreciated unlike clay soils that can take years of conditioning before soil friability is markedly improved, going by what my sister has done to her clay area gardens.
    We have ancient Harroldson and Jonathan apples growing here that the previous owner planted over 50 years ago. Our raspberries have succumed to a rust a few times through the years- but these apples have remained unharmed from rust.
    I still can not plant moisture loving plants and expect them to do well- BUT- there are certain joys to be had in being able to grow plants very well that require good drainage!
    If I were adding new beds now- I would layer healthy loads of peat, green compost- and fresh manure and till it all in DEEP and let it set for the winter. In the spring- I would top dress with rich compost and plant away!
    Another tip I have found, is that mulch is such a great helper to keeping moisture in the root zone in all too well draining soil.
    I do hope you will find what works well for you-
    Julie

  • john_w
    16 years ago

    Chinese Elm (U. parvifolia) is a different species than Siberian Elm (U. pumila). The former is an attractive zone 5 tree that isn't hardy in the upper midwest. Siberian Elm is the hardy, weedy, scrub elm that pops up everywhere.

    I'm guessing you have the pest, Siberian Elm. They can become medium-sized trees. They are prolific reseeders, and because of this, are considered an invasive exotic species in Minnesota.

    Take out the plants, keep them from regrowing, and be vigilant about pulling up seedlings that may blow in from other places.

    Here is a link that might be useful: More information on Chinese Elm

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