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aeiger

Who do I trust? GWebbers of course!

aeiger
16 years ago

Hello All,

I am considering a move to Minneapolis. There is a job offer that seems too good to pass up. Anyway, I need to get some facts. Good area to live? I like ethnic restraunts and markets, public transportation and city parks. Single family house and I like to garden. I want a diverse neighborhood.

Just how cold is it? Right now I live on the Long Island Sound and We get about 15" of snow every winter. Sites I have looked at say winter temp can get to 5', but I just saw someone mention -30???? She's kidding right?

I grow roses and veggies. What is the growing season? Please help. Chime in with other facts also. My mind is blanking. Thanks all. /Abi

Comments (17)

  • lori251
    16 years ago

    I've grown up in MN my whole life, so I don't mind the changing season and actually couldn't image living without it. Over the past several years we really haven't gotten much snow on the ground and only for a few months there is a foot or so. Depending upon how far of a commute you want from work. Plymouth is a nice suburb. I live further out, but I have also lived in Eden Prairie, which is nice. It would depend on the price range of real estate you can afford and if you want to live close to the city you will sacrifice yard space, which is usually not a good thing for gardeners. I live quite a way out of the city just for this reason.
    Lori

  • duluthinbloomz4
    16 years ago

    The best intro to an area (aside from taking a trip out to look around) is to read the local newspaper. (www.startribune.com) I think many people are quite pleasantly surprised at how cosmopolitan The Cities are - first class performing arts, art galleries, restaurants, universities and colleges, beautiful neighborhoods, lakes, parks, not to mention traffic and suburban sprawl that can rival any metropolitan area in the country. Missing an ocean, but in exchange at least I've got Lake Superior virtually on my doorstep.

    I was born in MN, but spent my life away (except for two years living in St. Paul) the last 30 some years in Maryland where January and February were always fraught with danger - snowflakes and the Metro DC area shut down, dressing fashionably took precedence over staying warm, more ice than snow. But spring out East was gorgeous and fall could last into December. Can't speak specifically for the Cities, as I'm 150 miles north - but I can buy plants in late April and get them in during May as long as I watch for a late frost. And as of today, I've still got a few things in bloom - tall garden phlox, zinnias, black eyed Susans, alyssum, impatiens, sedum, a scattering of dianthus, and a late reblooming daylily. The Cities get an extra few weeks of growing time on both ends, I believe. The temps there tend to run 10-15 degrees warmer with higher humidity than here, too. The weather patterns are changing, winter doesn't seem to be quite so snowy and harsh and I think the Cities are experiencing much warmer summers.

    Gardening would only be slightly more of a challenge here, but only in so far as you'd have to get used to a wealth of different available plant material. Roses and veggies do fine.

  • hostaholic2 z 4, MN
    16 years ago

    The heat island around the cities keeps that area from getting quite as cold as -30. It has happened occasionally. It's not terribly unusual to get a week or two of -15-to -20. I'm about 90 mi west of the Twin Cities and am likely to get more of the sub zero temps. I can usually put most plants out by the end of May. The average first frost date is Oct. 5th for me, usually about a week later in the cities. There are a lot of ethnic restaurants, lakes, parks,and museums. Let's not forget the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum just west of the cities (roughly 1000 acres) If you want to grow hybrid teas you have to use the Minnesota tip method for winter protection. This involves digging a trench and laying the rose down into it and covering it.Hardy shrub roses generally do fine on their own. Snowfall is anyone's guess, some years lots, some years very little. Here, a good snowcover provides the very best protection for plants.

  • windytown
    16 years ago

    The Longfellow neighborhood of South Mpls. sounds like a perfect spot for you. I lived there for many years. Lots of gardeners, Arts and Crafts bungalows, near the light rail and lots of good ethnic dining choices (check out the Midwest board on chowhound.com for lots of great restaurant recommendations - I love Midtown Global Market for chow).

    Yes, it does get very cold here, often a stretch of below zero days in January or February. It's challenging but also a lot of fun to see how far you can stretch zones.

    Minneapolis also has an amazing park system and, as another poster mentioned, the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chanhassen is a must visit.

  • heleninramsey
    16 years ago

    I was born here in Minnesota, but spent 5 years in Bay Area California and 3 years in Bel Air Maryland. Minnesota is an amazing place, there is as much culture, art, music, and great cuisine in this place than any other I have lived in or visited. The only real drawback is the length of the winter, it does go on and on....the depth and breadth of cold is not as dangerous as the length of the winter, heck, once your in it, who cares? There are may ways to keep warm...there are skyways and heated vehicles...blah blah blah. Gardening is more difficult, but in many ways more satisfying, imagine planning and plotting, hoping and dreaming, and then you get to GO! You get to plant at last, and enjoy at last, and you enjoy every moment like it was the last ... You have had your rest, and then there is no rest...you will be a better gardener for it. By the way, "Minnesota Nice" is not a phrase, it is a way of life. I love it here, I have a hard time thinking someone else might not...Proof is in the pudding, this is my world, visit virtually if you like...Helen.

    Here is a link that might be useful: pix of MN

  • mimi_stpaul
    16 years ago

    Don't forget St Paul in the scheme of things. I am considered an unusual person because I am from Minneapolis but prefer to live in St Paul. We are not as cosmopolitan as Minneapolis, I guess you could say we are a city with a small town feel. Population is about 300,000 give or take. When you go to downtown Minneapolis I guess the best way to describe it would be the Minniapple. (one nickname for Mpls)Downtown St Paul feels more European. And like our sister across the river we too have a great cultural life, parks and small town ambience to boot.
    If you want mass transit the only real convenient place to live is in the cities. If you want to drive everywhere then the burbs are the place to be.
    Gardening isn't any more of a challange here than other places, just different. Since we do have long winters, you will notice people here are always outdoors in the warmer weather. We appreciate it more I guess.
    I agree with another GW'er that said snow isn't difficult to live with, the ice storms that milder climates have are what are horrible. If you do decide to come here then you must do winter things, like cross-country and downhill skiing, snowmobiling, ice skating and sledding to name a few. And don't forget St Paul has a great winter carnival every year. If you stay active in the winter you will actually look forward to it each year. This coming from a woman that goes south every winter. but hey, I married a southern boy what can I say?(wimp):>)

  • leftwood
    16 years ago

    Minneapolis/St.Paul are one of the most ethnicly diverse areas in the country. We have the largest population of Mung (and Tibetans too, I think). Add to that Mexicans, and other central and south Americans, Ethiopians, (Asian)Indians, Native Americans, Chinese, Vietnamese, Russian, Ukranian, White Russian(from Byelo Rus). Then the early immigrants of German, English, Swedish, Norwegian, Danish, Slovenian, Finnish, Czech, Slovak, Polish, Italian. There are many cultural festivals here, as well as ethnic restaurants(which also include Turkish and Arabic origins).

  • john_w
    16 years ago

    I grew up on Long Island (South Shore) so I know the contrast you'll face. Yes, it is colder here. We do get those -25F days. But your notice the *length' of winter more. Spring arrives much earlier in the East Coast and Autumn lingers, later,too. Figure about 2 months more of winter than you have in LI. Also, we have big swings in temps. That takes some getting used to, too. But those humid summer days are fewer here; you'll appreciate that.

    Lots of diverse things to do here. You'll notice how less congested things are here. Going back to LI for a funeral a few years ago, I was struck by how many cars and highways there are. It's much better here than there, though the natives will complain otherwise.

    Like Mimi, I chose to settle on the St. Paul side of the river. Slower pace suits me fine, and it's closer to the lovely St. Croix Valley.

  • leftwood
    16 years ago

    I can't believe I spelled Hmong, Mung. My apologies!

  • aeiger
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks to all who have responded to me. I feel better about this move. Windytown, thanks for the Longfellow tip. It sounds like my kind of neighborhood. I will also check out St. Paul. The actual job is in Golden Valley? /Abi

  • windytown
    16 years ago

    You're welcome Abi!

    The eastern edge of Longfellow is really quite convenient to Golden Valley, and part of the commute is beautiful if you take West River Road along the Mississippi River. You then travel just a few blocks through downtown and hook up with 394 west that shoots you right out to GV. It's about a 30 minute drive at peak rush.

  • katp
    16 years ago

    Hi Abi - I moved to MN in 1993 by way of San Diego. All in the name of love. Sounds romantic, except that I came the week before Christmas. And yes, it really was -30. My poor little beach bunny bare legs were in for quite a transition... Poor kid - I didn't even own a pair of socks. That said, it has been nearly 15 years and I'm still here. I don't know if that was just a particularly cold winter, or if I was just particularly vulnerable, (probably a combination of the two), but I can't recall another winter quite as bitter as that one. Global warming or not, it hasn't been as bad in recent winters. Besides, what better excuse do you need to splurge on a beautiful cashmere scarf?

    I have grown over 160 roses and simple, kitchen veggies. It's true what the others have said - it is more challenging, but it will make you appreciate summer just that much more. I think that a realistic growing season is May to October.

    I love the Twin Cities and from the sounds of it, you would probably do well in South Minneapolis. We lived in the City for several years and have since migrated to the western burbs after having kids. I like it out here, but you DO rely a lot more on your car.

    Feel free to email me directly if you'd like. Good luck to you! kat

  • Julie
    16 years ago

    Say there Abi- I will be a neighbor of yours if you choose to live where you work- I can get you started with some proven MN winter hardy plants for your garden- just stop on over!
    You will be delighted at just how clean our cities are! It is a fact that has not changed in my lifetime- we do have a "better than average" educated public as our very own Garrison Keillor claims - Check out "Prairie Home Companion" for some tongue in cheek local MN stories.
    We are not as radical as California is with it's political and environmental pushes towards betterment- BUT- we are a very "Green" state and have the nations first all wind powered electricity option with our major supplier. When we first signed on for that feature- we did pay a little more for it- but we are paying less for our electricity usage now, and feeling better about it too! We have more bike paths through our state than any other- even though we have more winter than many other states. You can quite easily use the bus system and bike paths to get anywhere in the metro area, and beyond- but it does seem to take a combination of those to do it well. Our public transit system does seem to be geared more for the daily commuters who go down-town and back, than a life style choice- but there are other options- such as "neighborhood" cars that you can sign up for by the hour in several metro neighborhoods.
    You will be surprised at how much "wild" space and parks that have been planned into the cities, suburbs and whole state for that matter- we too are experiencing urban sprawl to the enth degree- but State planners have been made aware of needing to keep several "corridors" open for wildlife migration and living needs.
    We are a progressive state in many ways- yet we hang on to a neighborly attitude. As Garrison Keillor might put it- living here in MN, it's not too bad, it could be worse, I guess.
    Our Metro Zone is 4, and warming. Frost dates are Memorial day to when ever winter tosses out the first freeze- usually in October. Many tea roses will need to be given "The Minnesota Tip" to make it through our winters. You will learn to choose quick growing varieties in your veggi garden- and maybe build and learn to use a cold frame to extend the growing season for some crops. You will find it a challenge- and then you can go visit the Far North gardening forum- and realize you are kinda lucky to be living here!
    I do hope you will come and visit- if not stay.

    Julie

  • carmellia
    16 years ago

    If you choose to settle in Saint Paul (or even if you don't) Saint Paul's Como Park can be a Godsend in the winter. The fern grotto, the seasonal koi pond, the tropical wing with oranges on the trees, and flowers that outdo the perfume aisle at Macy's. The air in the palm atrium is warm and moist and redolent of live earth. In February, it is a trip to Costa Rica without the strip search.

    Como Park also contains a small zoo which began as a turn of the century menagerie built for the likes of James J. Hill and other robber barons, whose excessive mansions still line the Summit Avenue-Crocus Hill neighborhoods. The park and conservatory also have their origins at that time. They've grown some and modernized more, but it is still a park and zoo and conservatory in minature. Where ever you decide to settle, treat yourself to at least one trip to Lake Como each winter. It will refresh your soul and give you hope that spring will come anon. Carmellia

  • tammymn
    16 years ago

    I work in the city of Minneapolis as well as protecting it. You can go to www.ci.minneapolis.mn.us and then look to the right most frequently used and look under crime maps. Once you find a neighborhood your interested in you can look on the crime maps and decide on the neighborhood. The maps are updated weekly and go from violent crime to property crimes. You can go back at least a year. Good Luck.

  • selkie_b
    16 years ago

    I second carmellia :) I live just up from Como Lake at Como Park. It's really beautiful in these neighborhoods, with very good neighbors too. I grow veggies, wildflowers, bulbs of many types, and roses.

    During Winter Carnival ya just get out and enjoy - we even fly kites on the frozen lake! Just a different state of mind. I lived a bunch of my life in Seattle, but I love it here much more.

    -Marie

  • lazyweeder
    16 years ago

    I was born in CT and lived on the east coast for 10 years when I was much younger. My brother lives about 20 minutes south of Boston. We've visited that area a number of times over the years.

    I've lived in MN for over 30 years. If it were me I'd stay there. Don't get me wrong I love MN but you're a hop skip and a jump from the ocean, couple of hours from VT, NH, and Maine. The dense forests in the eastern part of the country are incredible.

    Everyone above is correct we have diversity, fine dining and the works here but nothing like the east coast.