Not really. Organic is about prevention and proaction, not after thoughts a year after you've had the problem and after the dormant season when the organic spray works. It depends on how bad the worms are and what they are if organic would be successful. You've already missed the dormant sprays and orchard hygiene. You could try setting out a lot of traps hoping to thin the herd. Traps would also allow you to better identify the pest rather than "worms". Spraying pyrethrum and rotenone when the traps show the targets are active may help thin them. But remember that "organic" does not mean "safe", these are poison to both life and environment if used improperly. They are broad spectrum and don't discriminate between pest and beneficial. Everything is a chemical organic or not. They also aren't that effective on fruit pests and it's very much like you're hoping to thin enough to get their numbers to tolerable levels. You may thin them further by spraying a summer oil. There may be a BT that is effective on the ground dwelling larve, I don't know. If the problem is Curculio even a lot of chemical sprays aren't effective. They're the main reason I gave up attempting organic fruit, although Apple Maggot being active most of the season to destroy the rest of the fruit helped me make the decision. I could handle eating around a Codling Moth worm. A barrier spray like Surround would work before the fruit is big enough to bag, but it washes off in spring rains. Then bagging should keep them off the fruit once it is large enough to bag. Through the year pick up and destroy fallen fruit, be vigilant (if they're not too damaged eating counts, just don't toss the bug larve into the compost). Clean up debris in the fall. Knock off any loose bark were insects may hide. On a nice day in late winter/early spring while everything is still dormant spray dormant oil. Between all that you may thin them down to tolerable levels.

This thread began as a means to discuss the issue of Sunset zones. The secondary motive was for me to try to explore the notion that elevation is a factor to RMG but not the only factor. Over the course of looking at climate data, I discovered that annual precipitation and the time of its occurrence may be a defining feature for the RMG region. Aridity cannot be the only determinate or wed all be over in the Southwest Gardening forum. Previous and somewhat naively, I had thought that these evergreen mountains here and there indicated that there were areas with rather high rainfall amounts - what hadn't quite sunk in was that while that is true, these areas were all at elevations where gardening becomes impossible. I began wondering if a particular native plant species was representative of the broad RMG region. I'm no expert on native plants so this was a fun exercise even if it doesn't appear to be absolutely successful (perhaps, an impossibility). It seemed to me that the Arrowleaf Balsamroot was most broadly representative. I'm hoping that other gardeners are giving this some thought and will comment. By way of encouragement, my question now is - what the heck is this plant whose image is used here on GardenWeb to represent Rocky Mountain Gardening: Steve

hollysprings- We all have different situations. I understand wht you are saying and we have thought this out clearly. Most important, our numbers do add up. We have had market evaluations done on our home and the going price for our home (today) as it stands, we most likely would go on the market for $710,000.00 (today). Comps in our neighborhood are current at 734k and 699k. It won't happen over night, but we feel it will sell (eventually)and would be thrilled to walk today for a 650K offer. We owe 350k, so yeah, we'd be in a better situation financially. We could reproduce pretty much the same house and have less than a 200k mortgage. Much more at our comfort level. I guess I should make myself more clear on using the word downsizing. I'm expecting to get all we want in this house we will still be around 3500+++. I do believe I have learned a lot as to where to put the bling and expensive upgrades this time around. We spent entirely too much money in our master bath. Some of our light fixtures are very, very expensive. We are so very fortunate that we GC'd successfully and have countless hours of sweatequity into our home. Our happiness, the way we live and our boys are such an incentive for this move. We really aren't that comfortable in our home or neighborhood. Basically we have upgraded, decked out, trimmed out to the hilt and back and it doesn't make us any the happier. We spend too much time cleaning and dusting chandeliers and worrying about dinks in the cherry woood. I have gone back to work part-time to make up the difference in the extra mortgage and we just rather not live like this. DH from the start wanted more land and less sub-division. Him and the boys can't race around on their "toys" quads and all. We figure if we can do this one more time, we'll have a much more enjoyable place for us, more casul, more woods for the boys to explore and less mortgage. Trust me, I have learned a good lesson on wants/needs and the cost of 4 different granites in my main floor alone. I agree that a smaller house can be much more expensive, after I didn't say "NO" to any extras this time around. Bottom line, just a simple family looking for a simpler forever home.

@Embothrium I have developed my own variant of the gritty mix for raised beds that seems to have a "just-right" level of water retention for succulents. The Lewisia just pop right to life in that soil. It was all about playing with particle sizes to get the adhesion level for water below the surface to be the right saturation level.