That's going to be difficult I think. It will depend on the varieties used. Most "wildflowers" are perennials which means they won't bloom until the second year, especially in your shorter growing season. So I would look to find a "wildflower mix" that is labeled as all annuals or a mix of annuals and perennials and get them started ASAP. See link below for an example and Google pulls up several other sources. Good luck. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: All Annuals Wildflower mixes

I'd plant it outside. Dormant bare roots planted in late fall will remain dormant until spring's warmth lets it begin to come out of dormancy. Your only problem would be if we have a warm fall that would cause it to start growth. If you choose to plant it now make sure you plant the bud union 4-6 inches below the soil surface. After planting cover it with soil. Don't pile leaves or any other protection on it until the ground freezes so it stays dormant. As mad_gallica suggests, use this as a learning experience. When you receive the replacement next spring, plant it next to this fall planted one. Then compare the two as they grow to see if fall planting is of any benefit over spring planting. Don't pot and grow indoors unless you have a heated greenhouse. Doing so will probably result in a dead or severely stressed bush by the time spring rolls around. Whatever you do avoid letting it break dormancy now, even if that means storing it in your refrigerator until it gets cooler outdoors. Remember, Spring is only 5 months away.

If I understand the situation correctly, there are a few different avenues you could take... You could pull them from their pots, brush off any excess soil, wrap them loosely in a paper product... like newspaper or brown paper... and store them in a dry, cool, dark area of your home for a forced dormancy... some basements would fit the description... or you could store them in a dedicated refrigerator that didn't get too cold, taking care to keep them away from the walls, perhaps by placing the wrapped bulbs in cardboard shoe boxes. The point is to keep the bulbs cool, dry, and dark... but not freezing. The bulbs must not freeze or they will die. After an appropriate number of weeks, the dormancy can be broken, and the bulbs re-potted and placed in a well lighted, warm area... at which time you'd resume watering. You could take those bulbs that show fresh growth and bring them inside, placing them in a well lighted window area, and begin treating them as you would any other type of houseplant... watering and feeding as needed... allowing them to grow and bloom on their natural schedule. This "evergreen" treatment normally produces scapes sometime in spring or early summer, and bulbs treated this way tend to slow growth in autumn and rest during winter. You would adjust watering and feeding, slowing down while they rest. (This is how I grow most of my bulbs.) Or, you could leave them in their pots, let them dry again, and store the pots in a cool, dry, dark space... a space that doesn't freeze... like your garage, or basement... some people tip the pots on their sides so they remember not to water, that those particular plants are in dormancy. Some bulbs will resume growth when they have rested enough, or you can bring them out of dormancy after the appropriate number of weeks have passed. Information on forcing dormancy should be available within the FAQ posted at the top of this forum... or, you can use google or your favorite search engine to locate any information available through the internet. I would suggest, however, that bulbs grown in a peat-based, bagged potting soil consisting of a fine particulate be re-potted into fresh medium every year... which allows you to check for dead roots and any other dead plant matter, removing anything that might hinder healthy root growth... it also helps to restore somewhat of a more aerated environment, important for healthy root growth. The method in which you choose to grow your bulbs is entirely up to you. I find it easier to allow my bulbs to grow, bloom, and rest as they see fit... but forcing dormancy is also an option, depending on when you want to schedule blooming.

Bandido I was under the impression that poppies needed some cold to germinate properly. Just an impression, one southern grower told me to scatter seeds outside in mid-December to assure plants in the spring. If so, you'll need to address this by possibly freezinf or chilling the seeds. Here is some references I came across on this: "February is a particularly good month to sow seeds of some wildflowers - perhaps not the month we would naturally start our seed sowing, but many seeds require a period of very cold weather before germination will take place. This is known as Âvernalisation and species requiring this cold treatment can be sown now, as February is often our coldest month. We are sometimes advised to put seeds of the wild Primulas (cowslip, primrose and oxlip) or those of snakeshead fritillary, wild hellebore or poppy into the fridge or freezer for a while before sowing. Unfortunately this often does often not reproduce the exact conditions these species need  several spells of really cold temperatures interspersed with fluctuating higher ones. There is really only one way of exposing seeds to these exacting conditions and that is to sow now in pots or seed trays and leave them outside. Nature will do the rest for you very efficiently."