I hate to tell you this, but your lovely plant will not do well inside. Lavender needs plenty of real sunlight and other outdoor conditions in order to thrive. Spanish lavender, in particular loves the heat and humidity and can be grown in the South. Enjoy it while you can. You may want to plant it outside in a sunny location after all chance of frost is over, just to keep it alive longer. Keep making cuttings to dry and enjoy.

I'll try to answer your questions in order: 1) New Pot? Only if it's root-bound (many roots finding their way out of the bottom of the current pot) Only go up 1-size in pot. Not from a 4" to a 10", more like to a 5-6". 2) for lavender I'd probably use a mix of potting soil and cactus mix - they like it kind of on the dry side, but not totally dry. 3. Deep watering means fully wetting the root ball, but don't let the pot stand in water for hours at a time. 4. How often to water, I'd let it go a bit between waterings, you might even get away with just once or twice a week, kind of depends how root bound the plant is, the more root bound it is, the more often you'll have to water. In the heat of summer, you may need to water every day - esp. if you take it outside (which I'd recommend also, once the danger of frost is over ~June 1). 5. Eastern exposure should be fine. When you take it outside once the weather is predictably nice, don't put it straight-away in the sun, that will kill it. Put it in the shade of a leafy tree for a few days and gradually move it to where you want. It will probably appreciate eventually getting to a progressively more sunny spot in the yard over the course of a couple weeks while being acclimated to the outdoors. 6. Trimming - not really needed, just for whatever you'd like to use it for. Never trim more than a third or so of the plant at one time. Less to no trimming is fine - I don't think I ever trimmed a lavender as a pruning exercise - I did it just to harvest the leaves/flowers for their scent. If you decide you really like herbs, you might want to get Rodale's Herb book, it's very nice, one of my favorites on the subject and it includes a lot of ideas on not just plant care, but what kinds of things can be done with the harvest. Here is a link that might be useful: Rodale's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs

So sorry to hear about the loss of your father. And I understand about wanting to keep his little tree going. Some things to help: First, if you're seeing teeny black flies crawling on the soil, and flying around, they most likely are fungus gnats, as Dave has mentioned. Fungus gnats thrive in too moist soil. So, the very first thing I would recommend is to re-pot your little tree in better draining soil. If you search this forum for "511" or "gritty mix", you'll come up with some good potting soil recipes. Or, if you can find bagged Farfard Professional Potting soils in your area, they also will work. Again, search this forum for "farfard" for the best choices. Citrus do not tolerate soggy soils well at all, and will suffer from root rot, besides promoting pests such as fungus gnats, which can damage tender feeder roots. Next, moisture meters (of this caliber) can be pretty inaccurate. You can try using one, but you're better off just using a stick inserted down to the bottom of your pot. Checking the soil moisture down to the bottom, to make sure you're not retaining a puddle of water at the bottom of the pot. As far as fertilizers, most folks on this list use DynaGro Foliage Pro, and you can supplement with Osmocote Plus, which is a time release fertilizer with a good NPK ratio plus all the micros. The Dynamite Select All Purpose will also work. Use the Foliage Pro with every watering. Skip the Tanglewood - your tree is much too small for that, and really, this product is used in citrus culture to keep ants off of outdoor trees. This will not prevent the types of indoor pests that plaque indoor citrus, including fungus gnats. Put your tree outside as much as you can during the year. Most folks will acclimate their trees to the outside slowly, over a couple of weeks as soon as temps allow. Don't do it too early, as you don't want to end up with the tree exposed to temps below freezing, but citrus are outdoor plants, so as much total outdoor time, the better for the tree. Lastly, to treat the fungus gnats. Use Gnatrol. Works extremely well. You might need a few applications as a soil soak, but that will take care of them. Be sure to treat all your indoor plants, as they will spread from plant to plant. Patty S.

Winter bronze and winter burn are two different things. Winter bronze is normal coloring of many conifer evergreens and has to do with lower chlorophyll levels during the dormant season. Winter burn is a browning of the leaves/needles due to desiccation/moisture loss when winter sun and wind dry out the foliage and is usually irreversible.