Spruce, have you thought about putting a conservation easement on your land? Conservation easements are usually placed, with a local land trust holding the easement, on lands having conservation, riparian, historical, etc., interests. The land owner retains ownership, and the land can be sold in the future, with the easement. I don't know how much land you own (nor do I really care), but if it's 10 acres or more, and heavily planted with interesting trees, you might be able to interest a local land trust. Easements come in many "flavors", including agricultural, forestry and conservation, and the wording and degree of protection is written up for each property - there isn't (nor should there be) a "one-size-fits-all" easement. Yours could be written to preserve the things that matter to you, maybe allowing for some limited logging as needed for the trees, but not allowing clear cutting, development, etc. In general, unless future home sites are reserved, no other building would be permitted. The easement is recorded with the deed to the property, and continues with the property for the lifetime of the deed. Changes CAN be made, but are done with difficulty, and only with the consent of the land trust and the land owner. This year is a very favorable time to do this as Congress passed a new law at the end of last year giving better tax breaks (50% vs. 30%) over a much longer period of time for conservation easements - you may get a tax break on the appraised value of the land before the easement and after, esp. if the land in your area is under heavy development pressure, but that's something to talk to a knowledgable tax person about - but at the moment, the tax advantages expire as of 31 Dec., 2007. Not knowing your circumstances, I can't say if that would help protect your trees or not, but it's a possibility.

Pine straw is not sold in bags. It is typically baled like a small, gently compressed hay bale. This allows for the easy shipping and storage of lots and lots of pine straw. Loblolly or Longleaf pine straw is a wonderful mulch, but there are some draw backs. The stuff I've seen in the big box stores often looks old and dusty to me. Pine straw doesn't last all that long, and the bales should be fresh when purchased. As it ages a bit, pine straw becomes highly flammable, too. It's use has been stopped in many communities along roadsides, rest areas, municipal buildings, etc. for that reason. Much of the economical value of using pine straw is lost as you realize that it had to be applied at least twice a year, if not more. It becomes gray and brittle in the summer sun and not attractive (or effective) as it breaks down. Then, of course, in your area the cost of shipping would be the primary problem (as has been mentioned). Oh, the chiggers and ticks. Has anyone mentioned that, yet. ;-)

I'm in north-central Minnesota, in Bemidji. We're in what we call the "north-woods" of pine, spruce, and hardwoods with lots of lakes all over. As far as gardening, my biggest projects this summer and fall have been tree planting, shrub planting, and a vegetable garden. I'm slowly putting together a shrub garden that now consists of 1 dwarf Alberta Spruce, 1 Chokecherry (common), 1 Purpleleaf Sand Cherry, a Pee Gee Hydrangea (grandiflora), a Mugo Pine, a dogwood (forget which kind now), and of course, a Potentilla. Next year, I plan to put up a few cast iron hanging plant holders, a bird bath, and mix in some herbaceous perennials, as well as a few spots with annuals. Right now, we have a small flower garden on the front of our house with some lilies, iris', daisies, black-eyed susans, loose strife, and then a mix of annuals (zinnias, poppies, bachelor buttons, Marigolds.. and a mix of others) As I am still young (22), I have grandparents with very green thumbs that have provided me with a wealth of knowledge and lots of help/advice.

No soil, that is small parts of the barks. If I add any fine partical it will flow to the bottum and cause a perched water table. That size bark is good to use by itself. I use this as a soilless medium in 2 gal containers with a hydroponic fertilizer program. I would never add any fine partical to this ever. Homehydro, Thanks for the tip on the perlite, lucky me I have some now. Don't you use hydrogen peroxide? I do at all times, every water and fertilize I put H2o2 in the water before my nutes. When using H2o2 if you smell the roots, they will smell life fresh radishes. Compaired to the brown roots in a none treated system. Please look up how to use it all time in your system because once you see you will never stop using it. I am all drain to waste, no pumps so fine particals that come of the bark will not matter. I have only tapla to thank over in the container forum for inspiring me. Now I am waiting for the same place I got it to get more of the mulch in.