I am near Indianapolis and I planted my peas last year on March 22 and they did great. According to the local (Purdue) horticulture website, planting time for peas in our area begins March 20. Yesterday I went out and dug up the area where I will plant the peas this year. This weekend I will fix the trellises I built last year and stored in the barn over the winter. I plan to plant on March 20. I know the original poster is in Maine but is also in zone 5. I would check your local horticulture office and see what they recommend for your area. Peas are a cool weather crop. They are one of the few things that can handle weather that is still on the cool side.

Fertilizer provides much of the raw material (nutrients) that allows plants to keep their systems in order, to manufacture their own food, and to grow. Without the essential nutrients present in the soil and available to the plant, plants will rob them from other tissues and exhibit symptoms of a nutrient shortage. In containers, you'll often see older leaves yellow & fall from a lack of nitrogen. The plant is actually extracting the mobile N from older leaves, sacrificing them in effect, to supply it to newly emerging leaves. Nutrients that are not mobile, will often manifest symptoms that indicate a shortage in new leaves. As long as a plant is actively growing, it will utilize the nutrients in fertilizer. As temperatures drop below 50* F, the plant slows growth & thus its use of N. When plants are not using N, it is better to keep its concentration lower. It can feed the bacteria that causes root rot and it also feeds the bacteria that breaks down the structure of the soil. For containerized trees & shrubs I usually alternate feedings about every 2 weeks with 5-1-1 fish emulsion then 20-20-20 MG, Peter's, or a similar product. As temperatures begin to cool (in Sep in my zone) I eliminate the N from my fertilizer program and change to a 0-10-10 blend of either fish emulsion or a chemical mix. Because I use an organic 5-1-1 in my summer program, there is ample residual N in the soil as winter approaches & the plants fare very well on the altered diet. I can see no difference between chemical fertilizers and organics. Both work well in containers. In spring, if you are looking for maximum growth, fertilize as leaf buds are opening or for conifers, as candles begin elongating. If you wish your plants to remain more compact, hold spring applications until leaves have formed & matured or candles have stopped elongating & are open. This will keep internodes short, leaves smaller, and provide nutrients when the tree is concentrating on cambial (girth) and root growth. I am seeing frequent advice to use grass clippings only, as fertilizer in containers. I'm sorry, but if it was an effective method of nutrient delivery, because the supply is unlimited and free, every greenhouse or nursery operation in the world would be stuffing their containers with grass. One of the main attributes of a sound fertilizer program is the growers control over delivery timing and quantity/type of nutrients. Obviously this is lacking in the grass clipping suggestion. There are additional issues that would be associated with the practice as well. Good luck. Al

Hi Richard! Thank you for your reply! Hmm, interesting. I did notice when I was at HausermannÂs that the greenhouse was fairly cool during the day. It would be interesting to find out the temperature range they keep during the winter nights. After I purchased the plant, I was also experimenting with dropping the nighttime temperature in the house to about 62F, hoping to encourage a favorite Aliceara to develop spikes, without distressing the warmer growing plants. I did this for about a month, and then brought the night temps up to 69F because some of the warmer growing plants were beginning to show signs of distress/rot even though I had been careful to keep them dryer through the night. Perhaps, the combination of things has induced the Max to bloom. Regards, PoseyPlanter

Ask for the scotch guard treatment on all upholstered pieces. Regarding the ottoman -matching is more work than its worth instead go for an accent color and pull that color into the pillows or lap blankets, art , etc so it looks like part of the plan. Have fun with it You may even find accent chairs that go with the ottoman. Chairs & big men- the story of my life. The thing about men is the are very honest about their seating preferences -if it ain’t comfortable, they ain’t hanging around! I live in N. Alabama so forgive my southern. Look for chairs that are rated for “300 lb capacity”. They will hold up better, last longer and will be more comfortable for everyone and hopefully be really comfortable for you and baby. Regarding baby- get yourself a good upholstered recliner - even if you never thought the words Lazboy would be in your vocabulary or in your house, i slept many a night with a sick baby on my chest and the recline was my and my husbands saving grace.