Never order anything from this company. I ordered a beautiful, expensive drum chandelier for a home renovation. It was done in advance as my contractor was not sure when it would be installed. When he went to install it we discovered that the drop was too long for the location we had in mind. We immediately contacted Canada Lighting to return it and at the same time ordered the same light in a smaller size. Canada Lighting came back refusing to accept the return as the 30 day return window was closed. They did not however have any difficulty in filling an order for the new light. So now I am left with a fixture that was out of the box for less than one hour and only handled by a licensed electrician. Never ever order from this company as they are Not a reputable company in my eyes!

The bed and dresser are just beautiful! Before you decide about the bedskirt (and I think that this is a matter of personal taste - with no right or wrong), why not try out the looks to see how you respond to each. Set it up, using whatever fabric you have available to use for a mock up, without a bedskirt; with a bedskirt over the rails; with a bedskirt inside the rails; and without. Take some time to evaluate each and then go with the look that ultimately "clicks." This works well for me over a time period when I look, ignore, and go back to look until I feel sure. If you decide to add a bedskirt and prefer to show the bed rail, I have a suggestion that has worked well for me. We have a high (step up) Pineapple Poster in our MBR that has a 26-inch drop to the floor from the top of the box spring, which sits a good 6 inches above the top of the bed rail. A "double deck" approach allows the box spring to be covered and the rails to show. A shorter skirt attached to decking falls over the exposed box spring and tucks behind the rail. A longer skirt (in three sections - for each side and the base) is attached with velcro to the underside of the box spring and falls from under the bed rail to the floor. The fabrics can be the same or complementary and the style can be tailored or gathered. I have had several changes of bedding and I prefer that both skirts be gathered and I like to use two fabrics - the main bed skirt trimmed with the complementary fabric used on the upper skirt. When I redid my bedding the last time, I decided to use a long skirt over the rail. It looks nice, but I like it better the other way...and DH would not step on the fabric when using the rail to get in and out of bed, or put on socks!

I HAVE THE SOLUTION! NO NEED TO BUY A NEW FAUCET OR END. I stumbled across this (and your thumbs down thread) when trying to figure out why my ikea pull out kitchen faucet had such poor flow. It wasn't even enough to trigger the tankless water heater. I went to Ikea and while there brought it up with a kitchen specialist who denied all knowledge of a problem or that a flow restrictor existed. I said that's impossible as FR's are legally required in my state. But it was the way she denied all knowledge that got me thinking there's something more to this, and VOILA! I solved it. Here's HOW TO REMOVE BOTH (YES, THERE'S TWO!) FLOW RESTRICTORS IN AN IKEA FACUET. 1, On the pull out spout you'll see indents for a wrench, let's call this part the hose coupler. Now It's the actually the larger cylindrical spout part below it that you need to get off, so grip tight and unscrew it away from the house coupling. 2, once you have the spout end free. you'll notice that it's a metal cover with a black plastic part inside. Push downwards gently on the screw thread and the plastic barrel will come out of the housing. It's this part that aerates the water and has the flow restrictors. At the bottom of this barrel, you'll see the grey part with little teeth around the edge (they look like battlements on a castle). If you still have the green key that came with the faucet I think this should unscrew it. I lost mine so instead unscrewed this grey part with a good quality flat head screwdriver, pushing against one of the teeth in a counter clockwise pressure. Be careful not to cut the tooth as you push it. If you won't budge, move on to another tooth and try again. Don't use a very sharp screwdriver - I used the flat wide one in a Swiss Army Knife and it was perfect. They grey part will unscrew and on top of it, you'll see a little white mech and underneath that, something green. That little white mesh is a cap that sits inside (not on top) of the white ring housing. Pry it out with a little knife, it'll pop right out and inside there is FR number one - a little green devil, that sucks the pressure from your beloved faucet. Pull it out and put the little white mesh cap on. Now look up that plastic barrel - you'll see theres a white/beige contraption with a spring. Yoo can either push up from below to pop this out with something like a pencil. or get that flat screw driver again, and from the top, angle it under the lip of this little contraption and while pulling up, turn it in your hand.It's only held in place with a rubber O ring so should slide out. This little contraption is a pressure regulator and will also affect flow. 3, Now, screw the grey part back in, and then slide the metal cylinder cover over the barrel and then screw the spout back in to the hose coupler. DONE. You know have virtually full flow back. It will be at the price of that aerating feature, but I just want as much pressure as possible. I did not try putting the pressure regulator back in, but someone else out there may want to try. I hope this helps and please feel free to comment with any questions If you need.

I love my Miele!! Every time I see someone sing the praises of a loud, heavy ugly vacuum, I think, "You've never used a Miele!" The only bagless I've used is my robot vacuum and quite frankly, it kind of grosses me out to have to deal with the things it picks up! I like having it all invisible inside a bag, except when I accidentally suck up a lego piece and have to cut it open to retrieve it. Yuck! So glad you love yours, too.