Not much info to go on. When was it last repotted? What kind of light does it get? Is there mulch on top of the soil?

I'm not sure I would've germinated them now -- the tender sprouts/roots may die from winter soil-freezing. Best to store them outside or in a freezer overwinter then follow Tom's instructions. Done that myself w/high germination rates. Last winter I collected some pods underneath a tree, put in a plastic bag in my unheated tool shed. In spring examined the seeds & threw away some shriveled ones onto a dirt pile (no treatment). This late summer noticed 2 growing out of the pile among the head-high weeds. Best to plant seeds where you want them -- in my experience they are one of the most difficult trees to survive transplanting. Here's one I planted from seed around 11 yrs ago on dry, piled limestone gravel (my elevated parking space). Foliage is "tired" now from the summer/dry siting, but still a nice tree:

Hi Cecily, In 1976 my state's Forestry Svce published a list of tree species living in Maryland before 1776 and dubbed these trees "Bicentennial Trees". They determined age by taking core samples and counting rings. Here's a quote from the booklet: Approximately 250 species of trees have been recognized as growing in 1776. As expected, the oaks make up the majority of Bicentennial Trees. As a group, oaks are the longest living trees in Maryland. Out of the 292 listed in this report, 205 are oaks. Here are some entries: Osage Orange 353 years Am Elm 360 years Bald Cypress 600 years Tulip Poplar 420 years Swamp Chestnut Oak 390 years Black Walnut 360 years Willow Oak 400 years Pecan 375 years Monitoring these trees is difficult and time consuming since many are on private land. I have no idea how many are surviving today. You might check to see if Virginia has a similar list.

Super! Others will chime in, and probably do a much more in depth job than I. I'll start you off though with what I feel comfortable with. 1. No, I didn't root prune. First time I repoted 4 5 years ago, the roots were were wrapped around the soil. The second time I repoted, to the actual pot, 2 or 3 years ago the roots hadn't grown so much as the first time. 2. I used regular house plants potting soil with neutral ph (7 i think). The soil is rather airy, not dense or heavy. It has good drainage I think. When the time comes, youre going to want to strip all that soil off, bare root it, and prune 1/3 of the roots away. Any that are old (brown), dead, circling, or taproot looking (growing straight down). Keep all the thin hairlike fibrous roots, they are what you need for a healthy plant. Get rid of all that bagged soil media is step one. [Here is a link you will find especially helpful![(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/why-root-prune-when-you-repot-dsvw-vd~2025020) 3. I'm watering once a week during winter time, and once every 4-5 days in summer. I pour approximately 1 liter of water. It is water from my own water source, so it is not treated with anything. I have just a couple of filters in place at the pump. Are any of these filters salt based? When you water, can you bring that big plant somewhere where youre flushing the soil well at least once a month? Don't water on a schedule, water when the plant needs it. Best way I have gleaned from others here it to use a wooden dowel (1/4" and 5/16" fit in a pencil sharpener!) and insert it all the way to the bottom of the pot. Count to ten and pull it out. If it's wet, wait to water. You want to water when just the sharpened tip of the dowel is moist. This thread is HUGE, and very intimidating. trust me, it will solve all your issues and get you back to enjoying this coffee tree! Take the time to read it and all the comments. TRUST ME! :) 4. To be honest, not really. I put some fertilizer in the water especially from March to October, but not I'm not rigurous about it. I often forget. Then from October to March rarely. And I used some fertilizer for palm trees or tropical plants, found in the supermarket. I'm quite afraid of not using too much... As you'll see in that thread, you want to use at least some fertilizer. if you don't have the desire, time, or want to add fert at a low dose at each watering, that's ok! At the very least add some Controlled Release Fertilizer (CRF). A lot of folks here (myself included) use Dynagro Folaige Pro 9-3-6. I use it at the maintenance dose which is 1/4tsp per gallon at each watering, and flush the soil often. Further reading and discussion on fertilize in containerized plants can be found here. Long read, but again, TRUST ME! 5. The tree is positioned near a glass door which is facing east, and there's another window facing south. I would say it has enough light from the end of March until October. Right now the sun rises at 8 and sets just after 5 in the evening, so pretty short days. Also most of the days it is overcast from November until March. I am by no means a Coffee tree grower, i'll let other determine if this is enough light or not. From what I have briefly read they are a tolerant species capable of full sun to limited light such as an east window. 5a. I never got it outside, no. I wanted to, but never decided where I should position it, as to no have the foliage "burned" by direct sunlight. It will love the outdoors, lets see what more experienced growers suggest for where to put it. 6. Romania, Eastern Europe. Equivalent to USDA hardiness zone 7a to 6b. Similar to me. Don't repot or prune until around the end of May. The plant will need to build up energy reserves after a dark winter, and this allows enough time for it to recover and rebuild more energy reserves after you work on it. Not that you can't do it all now, but the tree won't be happy about it. Patience.